Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Jacking of the NAS step holes |
|
|
LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 |
The only thing that strikes me about that plan is that if you want to lift it high enough to work on the rear wheels then it's got be a lot higher than if supported under the axles to overcome the suspension. If the drive is on a slope then that sounds like a bad idea. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
||
10th May 2022 9:59am |
|
markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2525 |
Lift the wheel / axle is the most stable way to go and not the body.
My drive angles back towards the garage. If I am changing pads then I lift with the trolly jack just enough to get the wheel off the ground backed up with an axle stand. The below picture is me messing around (coz it’s fun). The front wheel is off the ground, the rear is still planted. The opposite wheels are both chocked, centre and rear diff locks on. I could shake the 90 quite violently and it won’t move……what I won’t do with the body that high is remove a wheel…. With a 110 I had when jacking from the rear cross member I once had a situation when the rear wheel on the opposite axle tried to lift and it cause the back end to shift to one side……..lesson learnt and never did that again, if I have to lift the body, then I only do that from the side on the tree sliders. If your drive is like mine, try the axle stands first back up with a trolly jack remembering to secure at least two wheels with chocks. I use cut up fence post that is wider that the trees so there is no chance of the vehicle pivoting and knocking over he normally supplied metal one. Good luck Click image to enlarge |
||
10th May 2022 10:30am |
|
|
All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis