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Benrlelliott



Member Since: 29 Dec 2020
Location: London
Posts: 25

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Aintree Green
Repair vs Replace Chassis / X-Member
Rear X-Member has seen better days, starting to delaminate on my '08 90. New galv was always on the cards but not sure if wallet will allow that to be a next year or year after job. In such a case, is it worth replacing the X-Member now for 2-4yrs? Or just rust treatment over the eyesore and save the pennies?

Many thanks for any input.
Post #949002 11th Apr 2022 12:35pm
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DSC-off



Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1352

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
It sounds like a crossmember replacement is not currently necessary. It hasn't failed an mot and you haven't mentioned any concerns about towing with it.
If that is so, then it would be a waste of time and money replacing it now.

If it does need replacing and the rest of the chassis is fine, just do the crossmember.
Who knows what will happen tomorrow? It could be stolen, written off in an accident, (unlikely) market values crash or you may even have to sell it for an unforseen reason. In those circumstances the cost of a new chassis and fitting will not be recovered.

The whole chassis may eventually deteriorate to a point where it's not worth repairing and replacement is a more sensible option.
Post #949005 11th Apr 2022 1:07pm
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Benrlelliott



Member Since: 29 Dec 2020
Location: London
Posts: 25

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Aintree Green
Thank you for your reply.

Poor girl got an advisory for rust on last MOT. I daily my 90 so a surprise fail is a major headache and one I'm keen to avoid (tend to also use a Kwik Fit for MOT as more convenient, but maybe MOT shopping is something worthwhile to extend life).

Towing is currently not a consideration.
Post #949061 11th Apr 2022 9:22pm
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: None
Posts: 1074

 
Clean it off, and paint it front and back with corroless rust converting primer then chassis in one, then wax it with lanoguard on the back and inside
Post #949070 11th Apr 2022 9:52pm
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Mean Green



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: South Ayrshire
Posts: 278

Scotland 
I was in the same predicament about 15 years ago. My crossmember was holed. I decided to replace the X-member as (back then) it was £120 for a X-member vs £1200 for a galv chassis.

The X-member lasted about 10 years or so then rusted through again - although this time the chassis was more hole than metal. Needless to say it sat off the road for almost 3 years and when the 1st lock down came along I took the chance to do the chassis. Another 2 years later and it is 'almost' back on the road.

I wish I had just bit the bullet first time round and did the full chassis - however, the X-member did what it needed to do until the chassis was too far gone to save.

So it really boils down to £££ and whether or not you are doing the job yourself or paying someone to do it.
Post #949373 14th Apr 2022 4:53pm
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