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NineCherries



Member Since: 10 Aug 2019
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 44

Scotland 2000 Defender 110 2.5 TD CSW Oslo Blue
Turbo woes.
I've been noticing my 110 has been a bit smokier than normal so ive been poking about to have a look, I found a split in the s shaped inter cooler pipe and thought that was the source, happy days I thought, the inside of the pipes were a bit oily so i cleaned them out and checked the air box to turbo pipe too (it wasn't too bad).

But today, on the way into work, i blew off an inter-cooler pipe. I guess i didn't tighten a hose clip properly, but there was a fair bit of oil splattered about following this as i drove off the motorway to safety Sad and considering i wiped out the pipes last night i'm now beginning to worry a bit.

there is no worrying play on the turbo, there is no oil staining on the cold air in, breather side is fine and the crankcase doesn't appear to be pressurised (i opened the oil fill cap with the engine running and there is no pressure), oh and all the vanes are clean.

so am i right to think the oil seal in my standard turbo is failing. Sad

if it is - whats the going recommendation that is cost effective? replace it with a good second hand one? replace the core with a new one?

buying an upgraded turbo is out of the question financially just now Sad

My plan this evening is to take the inter-cooler out to see if its swamped with gunk / oil so long as i make it home ok.

Hopefully someone might be able to give me some advice.


Thanks in advance Tony.


Last edited by NineCherries on 29th Mar 2022 10:33am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #947298 28th Mar 2022 3:56pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4393

United Kingdom 
Hi Tony. Woes indeed. Crying or Very sad

The oil is most likely coming from the rocker cover breather pipe that enters the turbo intake pipe. TD5s, especially higher mileage TD5s breathe moderately heavily even when standard. Add a modest ECU remap and they can breathe oily vapours in to the intake side of things quite easily.

It is unlikely to be your turbo, but not impossible. The good news is that replacing the turbo CHRA or entire turbo is an easy DIY job to do and with basic tools.

To reduce the amount of oil moving from the breather system then you can add a Provent200 oil separator (do not be tempted to buy the fake Provents or cheaper versions it is not worth it) in-line between the rocker and turbo intake. This will reduce 90-99% of the oil getting in to your intake system. Job done.

It is advisable to clean out your intercooler at the same time as replacing the turbo/CHRA and/or adding the Provent200.

In a RHD TD5 the Provent sits nicely on or next to the heater box.

You can see the Provent in Miffy's engine bay just in front of the heater box.


Click image to enlarge


Hope that helps.
Post #947303 28th Mar 2022 4:20pm
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NineCherries



Member Since: 10 Aug 2019
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 44

Scotland 2000 Defender 110 2.5 TD CSW Oslo Blue
Thanks for your reply. I got home ok, drove like a granny 🤣

I think you are correct, thanks. I stripped out the inter-cooler and flushed it but it was pretty clear tbh (on the inside), but on the outside it's past it's best, a lot of the fins are knackered and it's a bit misshapen . Swollen upward and downward in the middle.

It still has the egr installed and looking into it after removing the inter-cooler pipe I found it to be very clean 👍🏻

Bonus is all the bolts came out without a mishap and they are all back in with a dab of anti seize. I'll keep an eye on the pipework and look into the provent catch can.

I think I'll look into a better condition inter-cooler though.
Thanks again for the advice.
Post #947331 28th Mar 2022 8:25pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2234

United Kingdom 
l may fit one of those to my TD5 as a fair bit of oil gets into the inlet hoses.

What's bizarre on that picture above, is the owner has installed comprehensive sound insulation on the underside of the bonnet, but they've removed the acoustic cover from the engine which would generally make it noisier and negate the benefits of the under bonnet sound insulation they've fitted.
Post #947589 31st Mar 2022 8:14am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4393

United Kingdom 
Quote:
l may fit one of those to my TD5 as a fair bit of oil gets into the inlet hoses.

What's bizarre on that picture above, is the owner has installed comprehensive sound insulation on the underside of the bonnet, but they've removed the acoustic cover from the engine which would generally make it noisier and negate the benefits of the under bonnet sound insulation they've fitted.


Ha Rolling with laughter Well the owner (me) had removed it to do a job, the photo was taken without it to show the routing of the pipes and hoses is all. Rolling Eyes

To be honest the under bonnet sound kit is worth exactly diddly squat... It was an impulse purchase and following it up with extra padding is just not a priority. I suspect you'd get better proofing by fitting seals along the edge of the bonnet.

Anyway...
Post #948167 5th Apr 2022 1:31pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2234

United Kingdom 
Yes l didn't notice any difference from fitting under bonnet sound insulation to my TD5

However, fitting a D-seal along the rear lip of the bonnet (between the bonnet and bulkhead) made a measurable difference to noise levels in the cabin, particularly if the vent flaps are open.

lt's much easier to fit if you remove the bonnet, which is an easy task, after all the thieves can do it in about twenty seconds.
Post #948666 8th Apr 2022 6:12pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4393

United Kingdom 
Quote:
Yes l didn't notice any difference from fitting under bonnet sound insulation to my TD5

However, fitting a D-seal along the rear lip of the bonnet (between the bonnet and bulkhead) made a measurable difference to noise levels in the cabin, particularly if the vent flaps are open.

lt's much easier to fit if you remove the bonnet, which is an easy task, after all the thieves can do it in about twenty seconds.


Which/what D-seal did you use? I am intrigued to see how much it does effect the sound transmission in to the cab. I have often thought about adding some dynamat to the inside of the vent flaps might help as well. Rolling Eyes
Post #948670 8th Apr 2022 6:23pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2025

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Another Thumbs Up for the adhesive D seal along all edges of the bonnet. Got mine off the bay of E.
Definite (yes definite) reduction in noise both outside and inside the cab Thumbs Up
I also have the ‘marmite’ noisekiller ‘lead’ blanket on top of the engine.



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #948682 8th Apr 2022 7:35pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 898

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
Thumbs Up sealing the bonnet edges and insulating it reduces noise about 4-5 DB 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)
Post #948694 8th Apr 2022 8:46pm
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