 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Door hinge bolt decision - thoughts? |
 
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| double cab happy Member Since: 01 Jun 2009 Location: merseyside Posts: 573   
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well i have removed my bulkhead bolts to waxoyl the bulkhead a couple of weeks ago and found that the captive nuts on one side to be well rusted and the other side to look like new, with no reason.
one of the bolts on the rusted side would not properly hold, felt ok then would not tighten and just turned and turned (me thinks the nut is no longer captive) so my thoughts are to deal with it before the other one fails, and replace all the captive nuts, brilling out the bolt will be a pain, but I'd rather do one than four, any body know where you can get stainless captive nuts? |
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16th Oct 2011 11:19am |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8578 
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No idea about stainless captive nuts but stainless rivnuts are readily available with thin head.
Brendan |
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16th Oct 2011 11:40am |
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| double cab happy Member Since: 01 Jun 2009 Location: merseyside Posts: 573
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isn't the hole with the captive nut behind it, over sized and poss not even round? any one. Mark |
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16th Oct 2011 4:10pm |
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| T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101 
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stainless bolts are renowned for picking up in threads. If the doors not loose i'd leave it untill next summer when you can have the whole door off and replace the bolt and captive nut
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16th Oct 2011 4:15pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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No they're oblong. The captive nuts are square and just held in the clips by bent tabs. Knowing one was loose would drive me nuts so I'd have been drilling it out by now but that's just me. You can undo both hinge to pillar screws and not loose the door adjustment of you keep the door shut, but it's always wise to mark the position of the hinge on the pillar before removal just in case. The standard captive nuts are rubbish at the best of times and the clips can fail even on brand new ones [as at least one did on my then new Puma] which is why I always coat the screw threads with anti seize when replacing them. As Tig Up says stainless will pick up threads taking you back to square one. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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16th Oct 2011 4:47pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226 
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Many thanks for the thoughts all. Think I will leave it for the time being and then tackle them all at once at some stage. The door seems to be pretty secure, there's no movement of the hinge when opening / closing at the moment - I'll just have to keep an eye on it. Just one of those annoying little things! 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
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16th Oct 2011 6:32pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Green Machine,
I've just been out to mine with a torch and accessability to the rear of them bolts looks at first glance to be a MAJOR issue. Then again it may be different on a TD5. That said I would have to try and sort it if it were me as it would 'play on my mind!' You have nothing to lose by trying to extract it. I have no real idea but I would try and remove the side soundproofing to the right of the accelerator and see if you have access to the rear of the bolts from below. As far as I can see it would be more or less a dash out job. I was thinking eventually of replacing my entire hinges with stainless ones. I would be very interested to hear of a resolution....Justin.... Justin Case!!!! Good luck hopefully someone can help.  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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16th Oct 2011 6:36pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226
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Cheers K9. The captive nuts can be accessed from the outside, you just have to flap the hinge out of the way to expose them. Obviously I can't do that because the bolt is jammed in the nut, so I can't move the hinge out of the way. So I'd either have to cut the head off behind the hinge, or drill it out through the hinge block. Either way, it's a task that I wouldn't really relish at the moment! Found this yesterday, which is very useful for seeing what is actually behind there! 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
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16th Oct 2011 8:55pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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I've had to drill out a fair few on older Defenders and there's no access to the rear of the A post - unless of course you want to start cutting sections out from the inside. The main problem is the screw rotating with the drill but if you use sharp bits, maintain steady pressure and drill a pilot hole first you only have to go in far enough to get below the head and into the stem of the screw. Once you've done that you can gradually go up in bit size until you've removed the head and left the stem in place but not too much that you can't get the hinge off over the top of it. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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16th Oct 2011 9:19pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Green Machine,
 Thank you for the informative link. Handy to know!
Could you not get the remaining three bolts out and then rotate the hinge for better access to the sprung anchor nut and then look at the possibility of getting either a small 'shifter' or something to hold it in situ whilst undoing the bolt? If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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16th Oct 2011 10:29pm |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266 
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are you sure the captive nut is compatable with the bolt ie metic or have you an imperial bolt ? 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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17th Oct 2011 10:15am |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226
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Cheers Steve - I think that's what I will end up doing. Once you've drilled the head off and moved the hinge out of the way, how do you get the captive nut out? Because it will have the remaining thread jammed in it, so it can't 'slide' out. Presumably I'd have to just bend the cage out of the way and then pull the thread through the hole at the back, if there's enough space in the bulkhead to do that.
K9 - I could do, but I think I can probably do it without having to take all the studs out. If I take the lower one on the bulkhead side out and drill out the top one that is stuck, I should be able to fold the bulkhead side of the hinge back against the mirror arm to get at the caged nuts to replace. Grockle - yes, they're definitely both metric as I have done all the others with the same bolts. Unless someone at LR put a metric one in as a joke - which wouldn't surprise me! As a slight aside - I've got it booked in with Joe at JR Classics week after next, following yours and others recommendations. It had crossed my mind that he might want to take the bolts out anyway in order to get a lance into the bulkhead? Do you know if he did on yours? 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green |
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17th Oct 2011 10:32am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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It's a case of suck it and see! Even with a bit of stem on you can still unclip the nut cage - in fact it gives you something to hold onto as the damned things are so easily dropped into the inside of the A post. Depending on how loose it is you may be able to get a hacksaw blade down the back of the hinge but you run the risk of screwing the paintwork and plastic spacer up. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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17th Oct 2011 10:49am |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266
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the captive nut is held in place by a J clip, so you should be able to unscrew thew bolt and insert a new captive nut
2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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17th Oct 2011 1:14pm |
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