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GRU54



Member Since: 03 Oct 2021
Location: Nashville
Posts: 23

United States 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Coniston Green
striker post wall cracks

I have small cracks around each door striker. As you may know that wall is thin aluminum. Someone in the past had rivited a thin metal plate in the back of the striker. I want to remove the rivets, bolt two metal plates between the striker wall and install a new striker. Has anyone ever done this? What thickness aluminum plate will fit in the front? Does the striker depth need to be modified some for it to meet the locks on the door? thanks for any help.

Post #936234 4th Jan 2022 8:10am
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Shroppy



Member Since: 25 Feb 2016
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 667

United Kingdom 1986 Defender 130 V8 Petrol HCPU Aintree Green

I presume you have this striker arrangement?


Click image to enlarge


If so, you may have the shim(s) labelled 3 (part no. MWC3148) already fitted to adjust the striker position. Providing the aluminium you plan to fix to the tub in this location is equal to the current thickness of shims then you shouldn't have any issues with striker engagement. Note that it can be quite tricky to realign the striker once removed so it would be worth marking some reference points if you can.

If you don't have any shims fitted currently, a plate bonded to the rear of the panel in question is your only real option as adjusting the thickness of the polymer spacer block (LR050856) may introduce clearance issues. It is also a neater solution in my opinion. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread
Series 1 80"
Series 1 88" 4x2 Build Thread

Post #936257 4th Jan 2022 10:05am
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 121

United Kingdom 

YRM do repair panels for this if they are bonded onto the front face they make a strong repair

Post #936262 4th Jan 2022 10:34am
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jimbo55



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Midlands
Posts: 240

United Kingdom 

I bonded and riveted a piece of aluminium to the rear as Shroppy mentioned. I did have to cut and bolt the brace as it wouldn’t fit properly but if you use thin enough material it should be fine. I used 3 or 4mm as it was what I had lying around and it is a bit overkill

Post #936293 4th Jan 2022 12:36pm
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GRU54



Member Since: 03 Oct 2021
Location: Nashville
Posts: 23

United States 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Coniston Green

Yes Shroppy, this looks like mine. Someone previously tried to put a plate behind using rivets. Iam not sure if I should drill all the rivets out and replace another plate behind, plus put a thin plate in front. I dont know how much tolerence the door jam has (space wise) that I wouldnt have to shim down the plastic spacer on the striker complicating things. Ideally a thin plate in front would cover the cracks, then drill the rivets out, put bolts through where the rivet holes were, and re mount the striker.

Post #936339 4th Jan 2022 6:57pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 491

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green

The best repair solution is - eBay item eBay Item No. 294078304005

This damage is always caused by the plastic failing in the door striker so the door doesn’t latch correctly when shut so people slam the door harder to get it to shut, stressing the door pillar and usually the door too.

Post #936346 4th Jan 2022 7:38pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1566

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White

Oldowner-that's neat!

Post #936348 4th Jan 2022 7:45pm
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GRU54



Member Since: 03 Oct 2021
Location: Nashville
Posts: 23

United States 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Coniston Green

another question, about using metal plates, should one use aluminum ? Will using stainless steel create a rusting process? thanks

Post #936378 4th Jan 2022 10:48pm
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Shroppy



Member Since: 25 Feb 2016
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 667

United Kingdom 1986 Defender 130 V8 Petrol HCPU Aintree Green

That is a very neat solution Oldowner!

GRU54 - Yes, use aluminium or you run the risk of galvanic corrosion. At a push you could use galvanised sheet and a suitable isolator - rubber, Duralac or similar. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread
Series 1 80"
Series 1 88" 4x2 Build Thread

Post #936390 5th Jan 2022 7:16am
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markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 1740

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green

Oldowner wrote:
The best repair solution is - eBay item eBay Item No. 294078304005

This damage is always caused by the plastic failing in the door striker so the door doesn’t latch correctly when shut so people slam the door harder to get it to shut, stressing the door pillar and usually the door too.


Second for that. I have fitted one to the passenger side.

Not for the frame cracking, but two years ago when I had the winter door not shutting when cold. From the inside I could see the latch section flexing. This did the job.

Post #936395 5th Jan 2022 7:57am
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GRU54



Member Since: 03 Oct 2021
Location: Nashville
Posts: 23

United States 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Coniston Green

thanks all for the help. When done Ill post some pics.

Post #936487 5th Jan 2022 6:28pm
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Moneypit



Member Since: 27 Feb 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 248

2004 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Fuji White

Oldowner wrote:
The best repair solution is - eBay item eBay Item No. 294078304005

This damage is always caused by the plastic failing in the door striker so the door doesn’t latch correctly when shut so people slam the door harder to get it to shut, stressing the door pillar and usually the door too.


I have replaced the damaged aluminium with YRM sections fitted with a structural bond used in modern cars. I bought the replacement repair strikers and and coated the inner block face with Belzona to isolate the metals and stop any bi-metallic reaction

Post #936530 5th Jan 2022 9:41pm
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GRU54



Member Since: 03 Oct 2021
Location: Nashville
Posts: 23

United States 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Coniston Green


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge

[/img]

Post #937793 15th Jan 2022 1:39am
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GRU54



Member Since: 03 Oct 2021
Location: Nashville
Posts: 23

United States 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Coniston Green

I finally figured out that I needed to try to repair myself. Used 1/8in steel plate which is easily cut with hand held grinder blade. used cardboard template to trace unto to metal place to cut out the pattern. Decided to use stainless 1/4in bolts to clear the thickness of the new outer plate, the middle aluminum , and an old plate that someone else tried to use years ago. (I had to drill out all the old rivets). I painted the steel after priming. Drilled the holes that I needed after tracing them from the original rivet holes. The door does close but until I replace the door hinges I dont want to make further adjustments with the striker.

Post #937794 15th Jan 2022 1:47am
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GRU54



Member Since: 03 Oct 2021
Location: Nashville
Posts: 23

United States 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Coniston Green

Now with my fancy fix neither door wants to close! I cant believe the 1/8 in thickness of the outer metal would make that much difference. Any ideas? Now I wish I had just put the place on the inside (behind) the door striker wall and use the epoxy in the front around the striker plate. Money pit do you have any pics of your finished striker plate area?
thanks

Post #938118 17th Jan 2022 11:38pm
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