 | Home > In Car Electronics > Winch - Kill Switch or Relay? |
 
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 906   
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I run the ol fancy switch on the dash and a Albright Solenoid in the battery box. Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
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16th Nov 2021 11:32pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3208  
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To fuse or not to fuse:
Generally fuse should be the weakest link. 50mm^2 cable is rated at max 240A. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th Nov 2021 8:14am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
4.5 kw @11.5 volts dc = 401.7 amps but this will be pend how low voltage drops then your winch is under load
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17th Nov 2021 9:17am |
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| felixp Member Since: 29 Oct 2020 Location: Bavaria Posts: 39 
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So the 50mm2 cable will not be enough? How do others have their winch installed?
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17th Nov 2021 9:52am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2199 
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I have got a low-current emergency stop switch mounted on the front of the winch with a dual-channel circuit (2 relays) which de-energise the winch contactor, the allbright solenoid in the battery compartment and the supply to the remote to cover off pretty much any fault.
Personally I wouldn't bother with a fuse in the winch circuit. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread |
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17th Nov 2021 10:51am |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 575  
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Relay - it can be placed on suitable place to have very short wire to plus pole of battery. Switch must be placed in location it can be manually operated. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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17th Nov 2021 11:03am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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I'd have thought a pair of Anderson connectors would do exactly what you want with minimal fuss?
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17th Nov 2021 5:55pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16877 
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Personally I like the manual switch (ideally with a removable key) on the front of the batter box. It is simple, foolproof, virtually impossible to operate inadvertently, and there is little that to go wrong. As I have said before I see little point in fitting a fuse, it probably won't stop your vehicle catching fire, creates a false sense of security, and is one more thing to go wrong at the worst moment.
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17th Nov 2021 7:11pm |
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| chopcat Member Since: 11 Sep 2012 Location: Pembrokeshire Posts: 409  
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Relay - it will isolate with the ignition off. (if wired that way)
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18th Nov 2021 1:05am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Is there a table of current draw under load ~ which options match the winch spec and leave a margin of safety the OP is comfortable with?
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18th Nov 2021 6:48am |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 575
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Winch with engine off - for sure yes. But we need do calculate with battery capacity. Just imagine car stuck in watter, you can pull it out with winch, and starting engine after check for watter in air intake. Same with using winch to pull car up on the tree to lift the fron for some field repair.
Anothe reason for some kill switch is corrosion of electrical parts (like solenoids) - when they are under power, they corrode much faster. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo |
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18th Nov 2021 8:06am |
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| SteveG Member Since: 29 Nov 2011 Location: Norfolk Posts: 656 
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The 50mm2 cable will be more than sufficient. Just make sure you buy a decent quality and one that is flexible. Any local company supplying welding cable should be able to supply this for you. Going bigger than 50mm2 to say 70mm2 or 95mm2 will just give you a lower voltage drop and becomes more unwieldy and more costly. You don’t need the extra amp capacity. Manual isolator switch or electrical isolator controlled by a switch is just personal preference. If you go for electrical isolator controlled by a switch, go for one that is designed to be an isolator and again good quality. Popular here in UK is Albright… https://www.devon4x4.com/albright-su280-isolator-250a.html |
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18th Nov 2021 11:19am |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2231
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I went option 2
 Click image to enlarge > 110 XS Double Cab > Instagram @simonlanemind |
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18th Nov 2021 11:26am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5420 
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35mm cables on mine, as I have had on all three of my Defenders, and a simple, but good quality, isolator on the front of the battery box. That way there is only about 250mm of wire before the isolator, so I don’t use a fuse. I can also easily bypass it should it be required and can use winch whilst engine not running.
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18th Nov 2021 11:29am |
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