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sjc501



Member Since: 05 Feb 2018
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 148

United Kingdom 
central locking
Hi My passenger central locking has stopped working on my defender 110 Puma. Any idea what i need to replace .Front still locking . Thanks
Post #923735 30th Sep 2021 2:25pm
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karlp606



Member Since: 19 Aug 2021
Location: Hull
Posts: 295

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Firenze Red
When you press the unlock/lock button can you hear anything trying to work in the door?
Will the door lock - lock and unlock manually
Can you take the door card off?
Post #923738 30th Sep 2021 2:39pm
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sjc501



Member Since: 05 Feb 2018
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 148

United Kingdom 
Hi Thanks for reply . I think its pretty much dead at the back .I used to be able to manually push them down and it would lock but now they won't push down .Thanks
Post #923747 30th Sep 2021 2:50pm
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karlp606



Member Since: 19 Aug 2021
Location: Hull
Posts: 295

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Firenze Red
It should still manually press down.

Take door card off and check the actuator make sure the rod hasnt come off or got caught that is on the locking unit in the door card.

Also give everything a good spray with wd40, same thing happend to another forum member a few weeks ago and it the actuator just needed a good old lube!
Bit like the wife Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter

Sorry couldnt resist!!
Post #923750 30th Sep 2021 2:57pm
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 669

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
The pink wire is cut?

If it's both doors though, maybe the fuse is kaputt?
Post #923817 1st Oct 2021 4:02am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16808

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It is almost certain that it will be one or more broken wires in the rubber trunk from the B-post to the door, these fail with monotonous regularity on 110s due to the crass routing of the trunking. Mine used to fail about once a year until I rerouted the trunk to avoid the excessive flexing.

It is also quite possible for both sides to fail at about the same time if both doors get about equal use.
Post #923842 1st Oct 2021 7:42am
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

central locking 2.4 07 to 2011 rear side doors






Post #923844 1st Oct 2021 8:16am
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sjc501



Member Since: 05 Feb 2018
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 148

United Kingdom 
Thanks for Help I will try all of the above .
Post #923859 1st Oct 2021 9:24am
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Landrover have used wires that are to stiff so when you repair the broken wire:

a. use (more) flexibele wire, to prevent future problems
b. do not just fix the broken wire but replace old wire in the rubber gasket (about 20 cm). So that you have new more flexibel wire in the rubber gasket. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #923877 1st Oct 2021 10:58am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2218

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
blackwolf wrote:
Mine used to fail about once a year until I rerouted the trunk to avoid the excessive flexing.


What did you do here? > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind
Post #923881 1st Oct 2021 11:30am
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J1990



Member Since: 24 Aug 2021
Location: South West
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tamar Blue
Tdi4 wrote:
Landrover have used wires that are to stiff so when you repair the broken wire:

a. use (more) flexibele wire, to prevent future problems
b. do not just fix the broken wire but replace old wire in the rubber gasket (about 20 cm). So that you have new more flexibel wire in the rubber gasket.



Complete electrical noob here but wanting to do this fix as my rear offside has stopped working and might as well do both at the same time. Any suggestions on what wire to use as a replacement? I have no idea with regards to what rating of wire I need to be using or what makes for good flexibility - Gotta learn somewhere Smile
Post #924959 8th Oct 2021 8:47am
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karlp606



Member Since: 19 Aug 2021
Location: Hull
Posts: 295

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Firenze Red
Could swap the actuators around from a door thats working, then you can check if its wiring or the actuator unit.
Also a good lesson to learn how to unscrew/unclip everything Smile
Post #924962 8th Oct 2021 9:03am
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Most important is that the wire has the same inner diameter. I never use smaller only bigger, that's preventing overheating.

Almost all the wire you can buy is more flexible than what Land Rover is using Rolling with laughter I just ordered from a quality car webshop about 7 different diameters, all a metre long. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #924966 8th Oct 2021 9:13am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16808

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
hank wrote:
blackwolf wrote:
Mine used to fail about once a year until I rerouted the trunk to avoid the excessive flexing.


What did you do here?


After noting that the rear door wires failed about four or five times more frequently than the fronts, I deduced that the fact that the front door trunk has its ends at different heights and so bends in a relatively gentle "Z" bend whilst the rear door trunk has its ends at the same height and so bends in a sharp "U" bend every time, I rerouted the harness in the rear doors so that the shape mimics that of the fronts. Since then, zero failures in the rear door harnesses. Thumbs Up

All four of my doors have already had the wire replaced several times, and currently use a high-flexibility test lead wire. Before re-reouting however the rears would still fail with this. I have also modified the harnesses to facilitate repairs if necessary, so that there is spare length in the door allowing me to pull spare length through from the door to the A-post or B-post and re-terminate in the event of a break, avoiding the need to dismantle the door every few months. That being said, since altering the rear doors the incidence of rear door harness failures (remembering that I use the vehicle a lot) has dropped from about 6 to 12 months MTBF to several years.

The photo below clearly shows the old and new egress points for the trunk.

The rear door wiring on the 4-door and 5-door Defender is another example of such stunningly bad design engineering that you really have to wonder what was going on at Landrover at the time. It beggars belief that something that was so clearly doomed to failure (and so unnecessarily shoddy) could make it into production, when one simple design review involving a grown-up would have identified the fundamental flaw. Simply staggering, and very, very sad.


Click image to enlarge
Post #924980 8th Oct 2021 10:56am
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Thumbs Up Blackwolf

Haven't thought of that. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #924985 8th Oct 2021 11:53am
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