 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Propshaft UJs |
 
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395  
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Hello. I do not but give Gwyn Lewis an email he definitely knows, he sells them
https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/1300-la...gl1167k48/ |
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19th Sep 2021 9:11am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3200  
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Check if this site helps:
https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/c...427;page:0 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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19th Sep 2021 9:38am |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 168  
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Thanks guys, I'll see if any of the local suppliers have one in stock.
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19th Sep 2021 12:50pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Interesting consequences of total failure:
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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26th Sep 2021 8:23am |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 168
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Ouch.
I went with Hardy Spicer ones in the end. Part no is K5-A757 (1300 series heavy duty). One of the cups on the old one was completely dry and some of the rollers had broken. Click image to enlarge Grease recommendation on the package is for a lithium based EP2. No moly and no graphite. Click image to enlarge |
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5th Oct 2021 3:41am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 3997 
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To moly grease or not, the eternal question. Conventional wisdom always said the greases with molybdenum disulphide in them could cause rolling elements to skid and so should be reserved for use where there are sliding elements rather than rolling. However Gwyn Lewis recommends Morris K48 moly grease for just about everything. Also, CV joints always use moly grease and whilst they do have sliding bits, they also have balls that roll in a similar repetitive manner to the needles in a Uj and they don’t seem to suffer skidding.
I think my conclusion is it’s more important to grease frequently than worry too much about whether there is any molybdenum in there or not. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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5th Oct 2021 8:01am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16870 
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I've always used molybdenum disulphide grease for things with splines (for example the infamous output adaptor shaft) and lithium grease for just about everything else. The exception though has always been the splined join on propshafts which I do with the same grease-gun and at the same time as the UJs, so they always get lithium.
That being said, I totally agree with Bluest, it is better to grease regularly and frequently with any good grease than infrequently with the "correct" grease, especially on applications like our Defenders which tend to be lightly stressed and have very low duty cycles (greasing bearings in a power-station gen set, or on a mining machine in use 20hrs a day at max load would be a different kettle of fish). |
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5th Oct 2021 8:38am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3200
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The problem with molybdenum disulphide grease is that it was primarily designed for CVs, where a slight increase in temperature would reduce its viscosity (so it can return into the balls and not be flung away against the boot and stay there). It is ok to use if it is contained in a very well sealed component, but I would be afraid that it will be lost if there is not a perfect seal. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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5th Oct 2021 8:52am |
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