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| johnnyha Member Since: 08 May 2019 Location: London Posts: 40  
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Hi all
I recently acquired a 90 w/ 3.9ltr V8, megasquirt managed, w/ LPG conversion. I've noticed that it runs reasonably warm (just under the red zone), based on the coolant temp. The radiatorh as two electronically operated fans, but is pretty old by the look of it. There is also a smaller radiator for cooling the transmission oil. with this in mind I would appreciate thoughts on the following options 1. Something generic like - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminum-radiat...XxswkE-K_Y 2. https://www.allisport.com/shop/performance...o-fan-pack with or without Oil cooler I have additionally been recommended a move to the Sniper EFI system. Not having the will to get into programming the MS, this is an attractive option as a 'learning' system with VDU. Any thoughts/advice appreciated. |
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20th Aug 2021 12:54pm |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 143 |
Does the temp vary in different conditions, or is it the same at all times? It may be that the gauge is incorrect if it's the same at all times.
Mine sits at about 85C driving along, it will climb to 90C stationary then the fans kick in (I have the revotec fans too) and it will hover around that. If you need a new rad, best value is something like a V8 copper cored rad or the 2.5D one as these are the biggest fitted to any landy - eg. https://www.bearmach.com/product/radiators.../BR%203249 I wouldn't change the megasquirt if it's working OK - MS is tried and tested and well supported on V8s - if it's been well tuned with a wideband lambda then there would be no benefit anyway - MS can do closed loop fuelling to compensate for any minor changes too. The advantage of the Holley system is that you don't need a laptop when you are doing the initial setup. You will still need to 'learn' how to use it - especially for setting up cold start / hot starts etc, but there's going to be less people who can help if you run into any issues. |
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20th Aug 2021 2:42pm |
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| johnnyha Member Since: 08 May 2019 Location: London Posts: 40
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Helpful advice folks thanks
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20th Aug 2021 3:35pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142 
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I think I’d check your temps as it could well be the sender or gauge. I check mine with a IR thermometer.
My 90 is a 4.6 stage 3 running Megasquirt and has the allies port water ans oil cooler. I can tell you it radiates lots of heat but the engine temps are pretty solid at around 86 running around and rarely up to 93when second fan kicks in. Mine is also running cats. Also if your Efi works I wouldn’t change it for the sake of it. Whatever you do will be expensive. All the above is good advice. |
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20th Aug 2021 5:21pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 906 
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When I had my 4.2 auto Ninety I was able to bimble about off road or sit in traffic and the temp gauge wouldn't move from about 1/2 way mark, I got a local radiator place to make a 4 core rad to the Turbo diesel dimensions and include the oil cooler. I then bunked an small mocal cooler up front for the autobox.
Used the standard cowling and viscose fan, never had a problem.  Click image to enlarge Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest |
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20th Aug 2021 5:59pm |
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| 100inch Member Since: 15 May 2012 Location: Brunswick Posts: 407  
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Worth parking uphill and open the radiator cap to see if all air has escaped. Unfortunately the heater, being higher acts as an airtrap. m
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21st Aug 2021 8:52pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7683 
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First thing I wold do is physically check engine temp compared to gauge calibration Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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22nd Aug 2021 7:29am |
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| Inigo Member Since: 13 Nov 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 614 
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I've got the allisport radiator with twin electric fans in my 4.6. Never overheats, even when driving at high revs at low speed in sand in the heat. Does need the fans though, when it was initially fitted it had a dodgy earth and sometimes the fans wouldn't come on.
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22nd Aug 2021 9:51am |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 980
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A friend of mine has fitted an electric water pump and says it has completely stopped the overheating he was experiencing. The theory is that at slow speeds the standard one doesn't operate fast enough. Ask Mr Google how much.
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23rd Aug 2021 3:20pm |
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| johnnyha Member Since: 08 May 2019 Location: London Posts: 40
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This was the root of the issue. Nothing to worry about and the megasquirt stays. |
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14th Dec 2021 12:52pm |
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| lordpecan Member Since: 06 Feb 2022 Location: London Posts: 3 
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I had heating issues with my 90 3.5 1987
Turned out it was the thermostat and good system flush sorted the problem. |
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6th Feb 2022 3:51pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6036 
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The old 90 and 110 I built some years back (with the same 3.9 EFI ex rangie engine), I used a TurboD radiator (not Tdi), as it's full width and had an in built oil cooler pipe (which is just a pipe connecting top & bottom unions together)
worked a treat. I forget whom told me about this fitting, but it worked really well. Just needed to change the unions on the oil cooler for the V8 pipes to fit on. |
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6th Feb 2022 6:59pm |
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| shanecl Member Since: 20 Mar 2013 Location: Louth Posts: 456  
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Hi Devon-Rover are those bonnet bars standard land rover or did you fab up the brackets Shane |
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7th Feb 2022 10:51am |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 906
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The panel bracing bars are standard. I used a bit of CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to make the two Triangular ish brackets and bent them up in thin steel.
The brackets go and sit square inside the tabs of the oil cooler and it's separated using M6 rubber bobbins to stop vibration cracking of the cooler.  Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest |
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7th Feb 2022 9:19pm |
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