 | Home > Td5 > Mid Crossmember replacement |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3200   
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 should outlast the rest of the Defender.. unless you treat the rest in the same way  1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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23rd Jul 2021 9:39am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5738  
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The inner rear quarter of the chassis rails have been rubbed back, flaky rust removed, treated with two coats of Dinitrol RC900 and then two coats of Corroless… Its got to help! 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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23rd Jul 2021 9:41am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5738
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Yesterday and today have been the days for mid-crossmember replacement....8hrs yesterday and another 5hrs today.
All bolts rusted and needed attention with the grinder except for the 8mm seat bracket bolts. The ones for the floor I drilled out with a combination of step cone drill and a few metal drill bits. The ones holding the mid-crossmember to the chassis needed angle grinding as did the ones for the brackets holding them to the sills. Makita impact gun made light work of removing the bolts for the seat brackets. I ordered from Duckworths, Parts 320045 / Screw x 10 (floor screws) MRC5527 / Washer x 10 for the above 302532 / spire clips for the floor x 10 LR055349 / foam strip for floor plate x 2 I needed 12 screws, 12 washers and 12 spire clips - ordered some more of these The two foam strips, did the long lengths of the floor panel and I had to make up short bits from what I had in the shed. Could have done with 1/2 of a foam strip to finish off. Once all bolts and nuts where removed I could snap off the sections of the old mid-crossmember and this left me with the middle section which slid out. While all in bits I took the chance to treat and paint the top of the chassis. The new mid-crossmember slid in OK with the aid of a small chisel the lever up the floor. Once in place(taking care not to trap the fuel lines) I got the four long bolts (chassis to mid-crossmember) in place. With the YRM kit I had to chop around 5mm off the 2 of the longer bolts in order for them not to hit the rear tub. Once these were lined up and nuts nipped up, I did the end brackets. The end brackets got tightened up last. New foam strips attached to the floor panel, new spire clips in place and some copper slip the floor was put back in and screwed down. The only bit I didn’t get fastenings for was the pair of black metal trim strips that go under the door. Luckily I had a few spare fastenings and treated these to some stainless and the trims a fresh coat of black paint. The seat mount brackets got a rubber gasket made up. I still need some new bolts for the inner seat brackets and then once these are done, a bit of sealant in places. A long job, made harder by all bolts being rusted and fecked! Old and new  Click image to enlarge 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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1st Aug 2021 4:55pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5738
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This is what remains of the bolt that holds the mid-crossmember to the chassis bracket
Fair to say its seen better days. Click image to enlarge 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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1st Aug 2021 6:56pm |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2520  
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Rivet's from the Titanic
Click image to enlarge |
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1st Aug 2021 8:04pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5738
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Not far off! 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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1st Aug 2021 9:15pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5738
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Got the rear seats in last night. The outer seat brackets on my td5 are handed...I only noticed after I had fitted them...and had to remove to swap sides.
At least I had nice fresh nuts and bolts. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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3rd Aug 2021 8:12am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Looks like a bigger job than expected, it'll be worth it in the end I am sure. Keep us updated
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8th Aug 2021 11:20am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5738
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It was all done really apart from a few minor bits in about 2 days. If I did it again, I would just take a grinder to the bolts and be done with it (assumin all rusted) 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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8th Aug 2021 5:48pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2236
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Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge l replaced mine last year, fitted a galananized one. It all went well, with a couple of issues, firstly two of the four bolts holding the crossmember to the floor wouldn't come out because the floor was in the way. l drilled two holes in the lip of the floor to get them out, the holes are covered by the floor panel when refitted. Secondly there were two brackets on top of the chassis, that prevented the new crossmember from being slid in to position. These turned out to be body mountings for the rear tub on the truck version, not used on the Station Wagon So these had to be cut off as well. You can't cut the old crossmember with a hacksaw, you need a grinder or reciprocating saw. And (nobody mentioned this!) when you remove the crossmember the body drops around 5mm. You need to jack the body to re align it before bolting the end brackets on the new crossmember. Apart from all that, everything went well !! |
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26th Oct 2021 8:26am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5738
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I managed to do the re-fitting without having to chop off the brackets on the chassis. I did support the rear tub with a block of wood and a trolley jack aid refitting. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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26th Oct 2021 9:42am |
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