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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 723

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Clutch and Brake pedal removal
I have been working on the restoration of the pedal boxes for both the clutch and brake pedals:


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They look like they will prove to be a little challenging to clean up on the inside, so I think I will send them down to the local powder coating shop for a blast, rust prevention coating and a powder coat over the top so that they should last a few more years.

However I am struggling to understand how to remove the pedals. There is some sort of pin arrangement in the hole - before I go all Rambo on it and lever it out with a screw driver, is there a non-destructive way to remove it? Surprisingly I've struggled to find reference to this procedure on the Internet so far, it is simply referred to as "remove the pin".



While on the subject, I note that there are two types of brake booster listed for this vehicle (1988MY, chassis number 'EA'):

NRC4772 Type 80: 276mm diameter non-return valve aperture at top left (to HA701009)
NRC4775 Type 50: 227mm diameter non-return valve aperture at bottom right (to HA701009)

Similarly for the master cylinder:

NRC8690 Master cylinder brake assembly (to HA901219)
NRC9529 Master cylinder brake assembly (to HA701009)

I am not sure what the size refers to, and I guess the chassis numbers listed for the brake booster are a typo and they should match the master cylinder numbers?


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If that is the case, presumably mine is the smaller 227mm diameter (the unit itself measures in the region of 220mm across the widest part) unit. Does anyone know if there would be any advantage to swapping to the larger 276mm diameter unit in terms of braking assistance? Its for a 110 which has had its rear brakes converted to disks if that has any influence.

I don't know if the larger diameter (with matching master cylinder) would physically fit my pedal box, of if the pedal boxes themselves were different. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #912104 12th Jul 2021 11:01pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 601

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
Knock the roll pin going through the pivot shaft / pedal box out shown in second photo, the clutch pivot shaft will then knock out.
Personally I wouldn’t bother with that pedal box, I would fit a 300tdi / Puma over- centre pedal box instead, which is a straight swap.

If converted to discs on rear generally the servo / master is swapped to the later 1992/3 onwards setup, and the brake pipe / valve layout copied from a 300tdi 110.
Post #912114 13th Jul 2021 5:01am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3200

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
As Oldowner stated, you need to use a drift punch to remove the pin out. Can also see the brake pedal box pin in the 3rd photo. On my 1988 90 they were not cotter pins, but they might have been replaced with a simple pin. The larger shaft that acts as a pivot can be pushed either way as it is a straight shaft.
I have placed some pictures on my restoration thread, although no description how to disassemble (only clutch box is done so far).
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72365-180.html 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #912117 13th Jul 2021 6:14am
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 723

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Ah its a pin which is drifted in from the outside? OK I'll clean up the outside to hopefully see the hole where it is located. I had assumed the pin was sitting in an indentation inside - thanks for your help.

What was your reasoning for swapping to a 300tdi/Puma pedal box Oldowner, just the avoid the hassle of cleaning this one up? Or is there actually a difference in the design? I would have preferred to have kept the original parts unless there was a operational benefit to changing.

I have to remake all the brake pipes anyway on this vehicle, so swapping to the 300 tdi servo/master cylinder should not be a big problem, providing I can identify their part numbers to order. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #912163 13th Jul 2021 12:05pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3200

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
The clutch pedal design was changed. The old one, as you have is kind of pressed steel with a C section.
The newer models have a 'solid', kind of flat bar pedal. To my knowledge, the advantage of the new pedal box is that you can fit an assist spring. I think JLR fitted it by default on Puma.
For my restoration, I kept the original clutch pedal box because the clutch was very easy to push (Valeo pressure plate). But I think you can also fit a V8 slave which if not mistaken is 1" vs the 7/8" used on diesels.

I do not know if there were changes to the brake pedal box. They all look the same from a distance. Of course there are differences in the servo and brake master. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #912175 13th Jul 2021 12:54pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3200

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
the newer clutch pedal box is SKB500280. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #912179 13th Jul 2021 1:04pm
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 723

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
I shall look into it, thanks for the information Dinnu, very helpful! 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #912191 13th Jul 2021 2:20pm
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 723

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Right when you know where to look, finding the pin hole on becomes obvious...


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Still, it was quite a challenge to knock it out - I didn't have anything small and strong enough. Ended up using an old unwanted Allen key with the bend snapped off, which then got properly jammed itself in the hole Embarassed


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But still, we got there in the end.


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300Tdi variant on the right (LR013488 - Defender Brake Servo - For Non-ABS Vehicles - Fits from 1992 Onward), original on the left.


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Despite there being two sets of holes on the pedal box, the new one is smaller than even the inner set of holes Crying or Very sad


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I guess this means I'll be scouring ebay for a > 1992 brake pedal box, and playing the lottery that I get something which fits. Curse them for changing things! 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #915063 1st Aug 2021 9:11pm
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Horneteer



Member Since: 10 Feb 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 60

United Kingdom 1986 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Firenze Red
Hufflepuff,

I've recently done this conversion and as you've found the early pedal box will not accept the late servo. The servo shaft is longer as well as the bolt pattern being different. However on a plus point, the pedal box to bulkhead bolt pattern is the same.

The late pedal box is the only way to go and can be identified by the bulge in the side between the bolt holes and the bung for the pivot pin, like this one.


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I went from a '86 tired servo, discovery axles and calipers to a late servo/master cylinder with late Defender front calipers. When I tried them after the rebuild I managed to pin my face to the windscreen Thumbs Up

The Discovery and early 90 use 105mm long front pads where the late type use 125mm long pads, the discs being the same accross Discovery/Defender/RRC. Discovery and 90 rear calipers and discs are the same but 110's are different.
Post #915785 6th Aug 2021 3:02pm
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 723

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Thanks for the information Horneteer. I have one off ebay winging its way to my house at the moment, at least I hope its one of the later ones - the description did not indicate so I was going off the image which looked like it only had the 4 holes in the plate.

I will check the listing the bulge you referenced, good tip thanks! 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #915799 6th Aug 2021 3:57pm
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 723

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Well, only 14 months later...

I have been trying to pipe up the vehicle with this new brake setup.

There has been a fair amount of discussion about the requirement for the use of a brake bias valve on this setup, which as a reminder is:

110 with rear disc conversion on a Salisbury axle
Newer sort of master cylinder, with three outlet ports.

I ended up buying the brake bias valve, the mounting plate, and I don't think I'm going to use it. Seems Land Rover couldn't make their own mind up where it should be used or not, and it adds complexity - mainly that I don't really understand why only the RH front pipe runs through it, if I understand the LRWorkshop diagram correctly:


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So that's fine Land Rover didn't fit them to all the 110s either, so presumably its not necessary and I won't be locking the rear up every time I hit the brakes.


The next problem I need to overcome is understanding which ports on the master cylinder go where? Looking at the LRWorkshop diagram:


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The struggle is to see how those ports in the diagram relate to the real life part:


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This has two ports coming out the side, and one out the bottom.

I went and had a little look at the Td5 with ABS, and that also seems to have three ports, two are on the opposite side, but the bottom one is blanked off anyway Confused


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Has anyone got any advice on which ports should go where on the 110? I would be guessing that its:

Rear port --> rear axle brakes
Front side port --> Front Left brake
Bottom port --> Front right brake

but given the typical reliance on the braking system actually stopping the vehicle, I would quite like to rely on a bit more than guesswork if you know what I mean Razz 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #967929 16th Oct 2022 8:30pm
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