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corgi1



Member Since: 26 Feb 2017
Location: bucks
Posts: 440

England 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Bluest, I see sounds like you have a fully pumped system not gravity so yes a duel channel nest or hive will work for you
Pete
Post #835919 8th Jun 2020 11:10am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3993

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Yes, there are two zone valves near the boiler (I don't know how many ports) and a thermostat strapped to side of the hot water cylinder. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #835920 8th Jun 2020 11:11am
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1867

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Sako243 have you tried those WiFi extenders? I have heard they work great and use your wiring throughout the house as an aerial. So I have been told Very Happy got to be with a try I think they are quite cheap too 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #835921 8th Jun 2020 11:12am
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1867

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Bluest, then you have a fully pumped system, I’m a nest fan and have fitted many and even have one myself. What you have should work well with either of the wireless units. Your electrics should all be there. You probably have the cream coloured Honeywell programmer? Some of these models have a switch or little links to link the hot water with the heating (used for gravity systems) and this sometime got overlooked when installing, if you have the earlier one there’s a little slot on the slider to untether it from the heating slider. 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #835922 8th Jun 2020 11:20am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3993

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Thanks Bear. The Honeywell sliders are untethered 👍

If I were to go ahead, I think I would be forced to have the Hive, as there is no power near to where I would want the thermostat. I believe the Nest stat needs a USB power supply.

One last question on the Hive. What sort of range do they work over? My boiler is probable about 15m from where I’d site the ‘stat, through three block walls. Will the signal reach? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #836149 9th Jun 2020 4:22pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1867

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
No worries, you can install the nest anywhere, it doesn't have to be connected to your stat wires but it will need to be plugged into a power socket, ideal if your using the stand Thumbs Up 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #836199 9th Jun 2020 7:03pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3993

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
It’s just there will be hole in a tiled wall when I remove the old stat, so I need to stick any replacement over that. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #836214 9th Jun 2020 8:08pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1867

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Makes sense Thumbs Up 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #836225 9th Jun 2020 8:26pm
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corgi1



Member Since: 26 Feb 2017
Location: bucks
Posts: 440

England 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
ive fitted both Nest and Hive both nice bits of kit, look at the hive website, im about to have the Hive house alarm fitted as well !
Post #836379 10th Jun 2020 5:02pm
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lohr500



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1277

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Sorry to resurrect an old discussion, but I have a couple of questions on Hive controllers that I am hoping someone can answer !!

Just ordered a two channel Hive kit to use on our heating system. I ordered the Hive version that supports "Tanked" hot water.

Our set up is an old one with an indirect water cylinder heated by the same boiler water that does the central heating (CH) circuit.

The current controller allows me to select hot water (HW) only or hot water and central heating.

No valves or pumps for the HW coil. It just uses thermal action to circulate the boiler water through the heating coil in the hot water cylinder.

When the controller calls for HW only, it provides a 240v live output to the boiler which triggers the burner.
The boiler temperature is controlled by the boiler stat which regulates the burner.

When the controller calls for HW/CH, the HW and CH outputs are both live. The HW live triggers the boiler as above. The CH live provides a feed to the CH circulation pump via a room thermostat. Once the room is up to temperature, the circulation pump stops. Again the boiler stat controls the overall water temp in the boiler and regulates the burner as needed.

The boiler has a separate permanently Live/Neutral/Earth fused feed which allows the boiler to run a post purge cycle once the controller shuts down the boiler. I am assuming this feed also drives the blower motor and internal ignition circuits, taking current load off the controller switching.

Long intro, but here's the questions :

With the above set up, am I correct in assuming that the Hive 2 channel controller HW & CH N/O terminals will provide the same switching? And that I won't need to use the N/C terminals on the Hive backplate.

Because the Hive thermostat will be controlling the CH room temperature, I am also assuming the CH circulation pump will be wired directly to the Hive CH N/O terminal, with the Hive thermostat controlling the switching of that terminal. Is this assumption correct? (With the pump also connected to a Neutral and Earth). The old 2 wire wall thermostat and wiring will be redundant.

I realise from the installation instructions that I will need to configure the Hive for a gravity feed system.

Hope the above makes sense and any feedback would be a big help before I install it. Cheers.

Edit with update : All sorted. As I suspected, the two N/C terminals on the Hive backplate weren't needed. Boiler start/HW only, triggered on the Hive HW N/O terminal. CH Pump triggered on the Hive CH N/O terminal.
Post #877173 8th Jan 2021 9:18pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3993

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I finally got around to fitting a Hive. Was very straightforward in the end. Hardest bit was identifying and bridging the ‘stat wires, which wasn’t actually very hard (although I am colourblind Shocked ). Everything else was just a case of swapping the wiring like-for-like. The Hive comes with pretty decent fitting instructions. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #903957 19th May 2021 6:19pm
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