 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > 300tdi clock replacement ideas? |
 
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2665   
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Technically it is correct twice a day……….
That reminds me, my clock is still on British Winter Time. Almost not worth changing it now, judging by the weather here  |
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9th May 2021 6:36pm |
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| Whirly90 Member Since: 01 Sep 2016 Location: Ampshire Posts: 408 
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I had a battery cut off on my 300tdi and i ran a low amp fused link between the terminals. It kept the clock, interior light, dash lights and stereo memory working but any attempt to start the car would blow the fuse.
Last edited by Whirly90 on 9th May 2021 9:38pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th May 2021 6:38pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2737 
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Put a small fuse across the isolator, it will keep your clock going (and radio memory etc.) but will blow if someone tries to start the car.
Edit: Bah - beaten to it by a second! |
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9th May 2021 6:38pm |
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| CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1890 
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Thanks for the suggestions. I left it isolated for 6 months last Winter and it started first turn, so quite like the idea of completely isolating as it avoided any battery issues
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10th May 2021 7:08am |
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| under_rover Member Since: 02 Apr 2013 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 152 
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Cunning....What size fuse , ampage wise did you use? Cheers Laurie 90 rebuild thread - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62909.html |
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10th May 2021 8:39am |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 767
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My 90 has been set up like that for nearly 20-yrs.
Small (fused) supply off perm live side of FIA isolator which serves alarm, tracking device, radio, clock, and an interior light. This feed is fused at source so any damage to the cable will blow the fuse (which is inches away from the FIA switch) but the remainder of the vehicle is isolated when switched off. ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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10th May 2021 5:06pm |
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| Dave T Member Since: 07 Jun 2013 Location: Glasgow Posts: 492 
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If you don’t have, then a voltmeter I have found very useful when winching and can give early warning of alternator failure 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi |
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10th May 2021 5:33pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3557  
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I would put an oil pressure gauge. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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10th May 2021 5:44pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10999
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I have took the clock out as it would not work to change the hour twice a year, not bad for the original one, so i got a boost gauge fitted
 Clayton.
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper. |
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10th May 2021 9:42pm |
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| Procta Member Since: 04 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 5293
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have a look at this, pay attention to the wiring This is designed to keep the alarm features etc on line, but as soon as some  starts the car, that goes pop and the full works is dead in the water.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123461298296?ep...SwFYZb2sBg Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back In the words of my Good Friend, Gary Forrest 1980 -2025 " we will work something out" |
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11th May 2021 12:16am |
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| CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1890
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Well, after a year, unsurprisingly this issue has not gone away, so it's decision time!
I feel a blank looks a bit low rent, but the solution must be period correct, so I'm thinking a voltmeter or oil pressure gauge might just be a suitable replacement for the clock. But, will it be difficult for a numpty to wire the voltmeter? Oil pressure gauge more difficult I assume?? I would prefer used, to be in keeping with the existing fuel gauge and water temperature so if anyone has anything please fell free to let me know. |
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7th Jun 2022 5:27pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2238 
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Have you thought about trying the clock with a 9V battery? Fairly sure it would still work and the battery should last a decent amount of time.
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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7th Jun 2022 6:30pm |
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| I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 844 
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As has already been suggested, just bridge the isolator switch with a small fuse, 3 or 5 amp should be plenty and will pop as soon as the heater plugs or starter motor are activated.
This will cover you for keeping the clock & radio active during day to day use (apart from when you keep forgetting to switch the isolator back on  ) and just requires removal of the fuse for longer periods of inactivity such as winter lay-ups etc. Setting the clock in the spring after a long period is no real hardship? |
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7th Jun 2022 7:36pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6187 
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Or.... if you didn't want to keep any of the other electronics live (alarm/interior lights etc), then run a +ve cable from the clock back down to the battery, add a fuse at the battery end and connect it directly to the +ve terminal of the battery (or the live side of the cut off switch)
That way when you turn the switch off then everything will be off apart from the clock. But I feel it would be better to have the alarm live as well. |
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8th Jun 2022 7:57am |
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