 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rust alongside door seal - advise needed |
 
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| wyvern Member Since: 14 Dec 2009 Location: Cornwall Posts: 2131   
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Hi Matta
Welcome to the forum ! I think that this is common problem for all defenders as the are is a water trap from the doors and the floors. I have had this treated a couple of times by rubbing down, adding rust converter and re-painting ... it was ok for a couple of years and seems to come back after the winter .. I am sure that other with more skills than me will have better information to pass on. like all things landrover its an ongoing project of things you never have to do on a normal car! (Landrover’s have been teaching owners to be mechanics for over 70rs ! )  Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126  |
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30th Apr 2021 8:49am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4271 
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Mine is similar. I had some new metal welded in on the worst side then tried to get as much Dinitrol behind it as possible. Think the Gwynn Lewis Mud Shields might help stop mud getting in there too. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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30th Apr 2021 8:58am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3548  
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If you want a permanent solution, then have to take the parts out (I think those are the B and C posts), have them stripped, galvanized (preferably hot dipped), then prepped, painted and forget about them.
But I understand that the above is quite a chore, and will put the Defender out of service for a couple of days or weeks. The 2nd option is to clean the best out of the existing rust. Sandpaper will get a lot out, and for right corners, I sometimes use a dremel with carbide tips. If you do not have a dremel, a drill bit on an electric drill (just bring the tip of the drill at about 45degrees to the rust) can do a similar job. Mechanical removing of rust can never remove 100% of the rust, as it is impossible to get into the pits. I never had good success with rust converters, however been very satisfied with rust removers. One product that I like to use (and I have no affiliation with) is Hg Rust Remover. It is a Dutch product. It is slow, but effective. DO NOT USE this product on aluminium. With this option there is still the problem of what rust and corrosion remains between jointed parts, especially where steel is bolted to aluminium creating galvanic corrosion. For the latter, you can try to slow it down using oily products, such as ACF50. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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30th Apr 2021 10:22am |
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| shropshiredefender Member Since: 05 Jun 2017 Location: Shropshire Posts: 834  
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To see and treat the rust properly you will need to get underneath (wearing goggles), chip off the accumulated mud and general
 , and attack it from below.
I'm afraid that the surface rust is just the tip of the iceberg  Just because you're offended doesn't mean you're right. |
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30th Apr 2021 1:30pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 681  
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I would start by removing the triangular side panels so you can get a better look.
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30th Apr 2021 4:50pm |
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| mattia.CH Member Since: 29 Dec 2020 Location: Lausanne Posts: 53  
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strangely enough, the underside looked ok from a quick glance.
what i noticed is that the bolt keeping the seatbelt latched to the frame (visible in one of the pics) is not properly sealed this leads to water to get into the vehicle and accumulate there, meaning the corrosion is starting from above (to be confirmes) would a rust coverter be helpful or am i just postponing a problem to a year from now? my original plan was to sand, prime and paint actually |
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30th Apr 2021 4:52pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 681
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Google will give you a load of images of how bad it can get:
https://www.google.com/search?q=defender+1...p;biw=1680 |
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30th Apr 2021 5:14pm |
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| mattia.CH Member Since: 29 Dec 2020 Location: Lausanne Posts: 53
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ahahahah oh god mark it nsfw
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30th Apr 2021 5:35pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1886 
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Mine was pretty nasty there eventually.
I'm firmly in the 'take it out and galvanise it' camp - it's the sill and b pillar and c pillar as one piece. My original part was actually beyond help, or might have been if I had a welder, but I was able to get both sides from a breaker and have them galvanised. The seat belt bolt not sealing is another thing - a good example of aluminium sacrificial corrosion. A steel bolt, into a steel strengthener through an alu. panel. There's a couple of pics somewhere in my rebuild thread about this. YRM metals do a repair panel. I'm assuming I put some sort of gasket or barrier between the two metals. And another vote to support Gwyn Lewis improved mudguards/shields. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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30th Apr 2021 6:43pm |
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| mattia.CH Member Since: 29 Dec 2020 Location: Lausanne Posts: 53
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let me play devil’s advocate
what is the advantage of dropping money and time now on such an invasive project, versus a conservative approach and then replace the whole thing when it becomes desperate? will it affect other components? i have the advantage of being able to finance such a project, just wondering if i should do it now or later |
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30th Apr 2021 8:08pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1886
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No problem at all really. I think the suggestions of 'replace' are more suggestions that it's necessary to accept that eventually, to do things 'properly' it would need to come off; either to be welded back together with good components; wnd/or then treated or galvanised as you prefer.
This won't really affect anything else in the meantime. I would suggest sealing your seatbelt bolt leak would be worthwhile at this stage and slow things down. If it's left, you might find that the floor under the 2 nd row seats, and the crossmember that supports it might also get worse. (again, there are some pics on my thread to show how bad they can get.) It can all be repaired/replaced as suits yourself - in the grand scheme of things it's not a huge problem. The only thing that might cause you a problem(eventually) could be whatever your road safety/structural test might throw up. The sills are structural, and close to chassis mounts. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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30th Apr 2021 8:22pm |
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| mattia.CH Member Since: 29 Dec 2020 Location: Lausanne Posts: 53
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thanks donmacs, this was really insightful
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30th Apr 2021 8:36pm |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1469 
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The joys of being a Landrover owner.
When is the best time to fix shoddy build quality issues? 
Spend money on it now or more money later... |
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30th Apr 2021 8:54pm |
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