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big110

Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Sweeden
Posts: 342

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

Hinge Bolts starting to rust..replacements?

Thought they were galvanized but today on the 2014 Puma station wagon Notices most of the bolts have a bit of rust starting. I like my hinges as they are still factory painted so wondering what would be the best option for replacing with. I live at the sea which doesn’t help much!

30th Mar 2021 2:17am

Oldowner

Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 601

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green

Britpart DA1132P (90), DA1133P (110) and DA1134P (rear door) are exact replicas of the original bolts in stainless and excellent.

30th Mar 2021 3:30am

Fabio

Member Since: 05 Aug 2011
Location: Somerset
Posts: 589

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

I bought stainless steel from ebay, but now it is the hinges that are rusting.
So I've started painting them.

Fabio

30th Mar 2021 5:58am

Leamreject

Member Since: 19 Dec 2020
Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa
Posts: 954

Great selection of stainless replacements on e-bay and many are tamper resistant torx bolts Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do…
2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT

30th Mar 2021 7:25am

Magoyo

Member Since: 04 Feb 2022
Location: Buenos Aires
Posts: 43

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

I have changed them all for the stainless Britpart. but does anyone know what the correct tightening torque is?

10th Feb 2022 6:49pm

LR90XS2011

Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3612

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

or just use some ACF50 every 6 months or so and they will not corrode and nor will the hinges and pins

infact follow the corrosion guide and protect the whole car

if fitting stainless consider security heads at the same time so your doors are harder to nick

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467...sion+guide DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy

10th Feb 2022 9:56pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Magoyo wrote:
I have changed them all for the stainless Britpart. but does anyone know what the correct tightening torque is?

I feel compelled to say "who cares"? A less critical fastener would be hard to find, they're just M8 bolts, it doesn't matter. It doesn't even matter if they are even or not.

Even if you had torque figures they'd be for the normal HT BZP bolts assembled dry, not weaker stainless ones assembled with anti-seize compound.

10th Feb 2022 11:46pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

I have Nakatanenga ones, corrosion block paste is essential on threads. I would also look at YRM’s offerings now available.

When I did mine, I just tightened them up enough, torque setting isn’t essential for these.
So long as they aren’t so loose that the door hinge moves around or so tight that they won’t come undone or you

up the threads you’ll be fine.

Replace one bolt at a time too with the doors shut, don’t take them all out or the door may just fall out at worst, or at best the alignment may be put out.

Welcome to the fine art of door hinge bolt replacement.

Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧

11th Feb 2022 12:00am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

Just in case I appeared to be harsh on the torque-wrench junkies, here are some figures abstracted from https://www.trfastenings.com/products/know...ic-threads (Google is your friend)!

Click image to enlarge

The coefficient of friction column reflects the fact that stainless fasteners are not installed dry, and the main difficulty will be establishing the CF for whatever anti-seize you are using. The most important column is probably the min breaking torque, since exceeding this is asking for trouble. Don't forget to use the column appropriate to the material spec of the fastener you are using, i.e., A2 or A4 stainless (it is unlikely to be A1, the use of which would be inadvisable).

The simplest advice remains to leave the torque-wrench in the toolbox and use common sense instead!

11th Feb 2022 10:41am

Vitesse

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Sussex
Posts: 372

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black

I had my 2015 Puma from new and simply use acf50 regularly and all the bolts and hinges are perfect still. If I replaced due to rust I would use standard LR parts personally. 2015 90 XS Santorini Black

11th Feb 2022 1:54pm

Iktank

Member Since: 08 Nov 2014
Location: Porthcawl
Posts: 236

2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey

YRM metals do the bolts, that what I have fitted and good to deal with
Much cheaper than Nakatanenga

11th Feb 2022 5:06pm

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