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big110



Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Sweeden
Posts: 342

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Map Lamp Above Rear Seats Install?
Id really like to have some light above the passenger rear seats, just like the front and rear. I swapped over the OEM to the MUD LED's with the red lamp option.

I just ordered another lamp set from MUD and the plinth needed for the rear most lamp...

How Can I install this so it works with the other two lamps when the door is open etc?

Snake two wires from the rear lamp to a small hol ein headliner above rear passenger seats and mount it to headliner? Not familiar with wiring.
Post #890040 8th Mar 2021 11:39pm
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Smyles_



Member Since: 26 Aug 2018
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 512

Denmark 2008 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Cairns Blue
I see no reason as to why this couldn't be done. I'm not familiar with the station wagon interior lamp setup myself, but I assume you want the light in the 3rd row of seats / the boot and for it illuminate when one of the four front doors open?
You would only need to run one wire from the connector which supplies the 2nd row lamp with voltage when a door is opened as the rear 3rd row lamp will already be grounded (I assume there is already a lamp back there? If not, you'll need two wires). You just need to make sure that you connect your new wire to the correct connector of the 3rd row lamp that powers the lamp on when a door is open. To save you from having to solder or splice the existing cables you can use double male/female spade connectors crimped on either end of your new wire.



Hope that helps, and if I'm wrong I'm sure to be swiftly corrected by far more qualified members Thumbs Up Stuart


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58 130 Double Cab HCPU - Cairns Blue
Post #890052 9th Mar 2021 1:25am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Yes, it's quite easy to tee in a third light for above the second row seats. The only slight snag is that the small three pin connector for the standard lamp isn't available separately. It can be lashed up with small spade connectors, which is what I currently have, or you can buy second hand roof looms and salvage the connector from that, which is what I have planned for next time I take the headlining down!

Anyway more details here:

https://www.defender2.net/forum/post711664.html#711664


Click image to enlarge
 Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #890089 9th Mar 2021 9:35am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Assuming that the new light is to go over the second row, it is easy. I did exactly this with the Mud LED lights in my DC.

All I did was to run wires from the front light (by the interior rear-view mirror, or in my case where the mirror used to be because I don't have one) to the new light to parallel the two lights up. You will also find that there is enough back-clearance above the headliner to mean that the plinth in not needed and the installation looks neater without.

Wiring the two in parallel means that the second row light works exactly as the front, so open a door and both will come on, and either can be turned on independently using the controls on the light.

You can also do this without removing the headlining if you carefully remove the fir tree clips along the seam between the front and rear headlining panels and use a bendy thing to feed the wires over the headlining to (or I suppose from) the hole for the front light. The second-row light can be fixed to the headlining (rather than the roof) since it is not heavy.
Post #890105 9th Mar 2021 10:28am
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boxoftricks



Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Home Counties
Posts: 745

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Really easy to do. The loom in mine that runs down the centre of the roof had enough slack in it to add the new light without cutting in new wires.
Post #890114 9th Mar 2021 10:48am
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big110



Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Sweeden
Posts: 342

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Thank you all a ton. Any reason to not tap off the rear load space lamp ? The one in my boot? I swapped that to a mud led too
Post #891458 15th Mar 2021 2:57am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
^^ Sorry, I am not sure about that because I have a double cab. If the rear light works in the same way as the front one (comes on when the doors are opened etc) that no reason why you can't tap in to that one.
Post #891477 15th Mar 2021 9:54am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Yes, it works. If you follow my link above, you'll see exactly that. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #891490 15th Mar 2021 10:28am
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big110



Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Sweeden
Posts: 342

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
So positive from each lamp goes together and negative from each lamp goes together correct?
Post #892367 18th Mar 2021 4:43pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
There are three wires to each lamp. If you take a spur from each and connect them to the matching terminals on the new lamp then yes, it'll work. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #892479 18th Mar 2021 10:22pm
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DSC-off



Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1350

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
There's 3 wires.
+ Positive
- Negative, to the metal backing plate.
and a switched wire, for the door opening switches.

Just connect the same terminals on the new lamp to the same place on the original one. Thumbs Up



Click image to enlarge
Post #892481 18th Mar 2021 10:25pm
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big110



Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Sweeden
Posts: 342

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Thx guys. I got down the rabbit hole of watching parallel versus series wiring on YouTube and confused the bloody hell out of myself!
Post #892572 19th Mar 2021 2:51pm
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big110



Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Sweeden
Posts: 342

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Project Done! Many thanks. A few words for the next mate trying this

The 2014 Puma station wagon roof in both the rear cargo area and above the second row of seats doesn’t have enough clearance for the mudUK lamp without the plinth. In fact even with it, it’s tight.

If you don’t have a sunroof running your jumper wires to the front lamp by the mirror is probably easier. Since I have one, I was forced to go to the rear light which is a pain in the arss as the headliner seam was nearly impossible to snake a wire above. Even with pulling 4 fir trees and pulling down as much as possible it was a MAJOR pain.

But all is working and I’m very thankful to those who helped me on this. Cheers!
Post #892912 20th Mar 2021 11:05pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
big110 wrote:
...
The 2014 Puma station wagon roof in both the rear cargo area and above the second row of seats doesn’t have enough clearance for the mudUK lamp without the plinth. In fact even with it, it’s tight...


That's interesting, on a double cab there's plenty of clearance, but of course it's a different head-lining.
Post #892921 20th Mar 2021 11:39pm
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