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DuncanS



Member Since: 06 Dec 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 295

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Cubby Box Cable Routing
Evening All

Is there a standard cable route to follow for putting various cables into the cubby box from the battery box / drivers side seatbox? I have a FCX Twin Din so I have a 13 core an ethernet and a 4 core for my split charge remote to bring in but I don't want to come a cropper if we have to take the cubby box out and the central panel to get to the transfer box. I had a search but not much was coming up.

cheers

Duncan North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader
Post #801558 9th Nov 2019 8:51pm
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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1294

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Whatever route you get cables into the cubby box, if you want to remove the cubby box, then you will need to disconnect the cables from inside the cubby no?

I have a CB mounted inside my cubby and also a USB on the sloping side. I have a quick disconnect for the power and earth so I can remove the cubby with CB inside.
Post #801580 9th Nov 2019 11:22pm
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DuncanS



Member Since: 06 Dec 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 295

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Disconnecting the cubby itself isn’t a problem, it’s where to run the cables so they don’t get in the way of removing the mid panel or the transfer box itself. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader
Post #801581 9th Nov 2019 11:35pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5408

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I’ve gone through the hole where my diagnostic plug is, but mine is a Td5, can’t remember if the hole is still there on the later models. That hole is beside the main hole into battery box.
Post #801592 10th Nov 2019 9:34am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

I haven't got a photo to hand, but on my 300Tdi (battery under the passenger seat) there's a hole in the seat box leading to the transmission tunnel.

I've routed cables through that into the transmission tunnel for the various switches on the cubby. They then route up through a cable grommet, and into a couple of multi-plugs to allow the cubby to be easily removed.

If I want to take the centre cover off, I just unseat the grommet and push the cables and plugs through. This wouldn't interfere in any way with removing the transfer box if needed. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #801593 10th Nov 2019 9:45am
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hxk494



Member Since: 29 Apr 2013
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 237

United Kingdom 
undertaking something very similar on mine right now - heated seat switches housed in cubby. I can get power to it OK for aux fuse box by battery but wondering about switch illumination and best route to get this from dash to cubby.

Donald, did you take instrument illumination feed too? Options seem to be either;
A - from dash, up A pillar, along roof, down B pillar and long top of seat box to cubby
B- from dash, down by fusebox, across floor under matting and then up to cubby
C - from dash, through to front side of bulkhead somehow, then follow route of battery cables, up to transmission tunnel area and then up into cubby from below.

Any thoughts on what might be the best option?

Cheers, Martin. 1996 300Tdi Defender 110
Post #880761 25th Jan 2021 11:58am
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jimbo55



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Midlands
Posts: 385

United Kingdom 
I used the hole for the diagnosis port to get the majority of the wires into the cubby box. This then gives easy access to grommets on the side of the battery box, I run an auxiliary fuse box in the battery box.

The ignition live and illumination wires come from behind the dash, I ran these under the rubber matting on top of the transmission tunnel

Make sure you leave a bit of slack cable under the cubby box, this then gives you enough wiggle room to move or remove the cubby box a bit easier should you ever need to
Post #880771 25th Jan 2021 12:48pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Mine was done with the switch illumination being taken from behind the dash, out through the bulkhead, and down underneath to the battery box. There were a couple of other wires being run at the same time, so it made sense to do it that way as a 'mini loom'.

I've since added more cabling when I was installing the Raptor console, and used the same conduit - I think it's a more future-proof option?? Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #880857 25th Jan 2021 7:26pm
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hxk494



Member Since: 29 Apr 2013
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 237

United Kingdom 
Thanks Jimbo and Donald,

think I'll probably go with the feed from bulkhead to battery box/cubby through one of the existing grommets as a "loom" in trunking rather than down cabin face of bulkhead and under mats, that way it will pop up exactly below where I need it to be.

Hopefully will get them wired up and in use before the snow all goes!

Martin 1996 300Tdi Defender 110
Post #881126 26th Jan 2021 5:13pm
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