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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 741

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Rear door lock
So today I sorted out a rattle in the rear door, adjusted the catch on the body side so the rear door closed better, no longer I have the rattle.

Problem is now when I turn the key to lock the handle still looks to contact with the opening mechanism and it opens a little to like a part catch, it does not open fully and will not till I use the key to unlock the door and then the door will open with the handle.

So question is, is this normal? Or what do I need to fettle to get this to actually close and turn the key it locks but in a way that the handle does not engage when I try to open when locked.

Thanks in advance Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #854278 4th Sep 2020 6:08pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Did the lock work properly before you adjusted the catch, even if it was rattling? It would lock on the key, and open properly?

If I understand your second paragraph properly, then I'd say that doesn't sound normal at all, and that perhaps it's been adjusted a little too tightly?

I have to say I've never really had any issue with the rear door lock, so I don't know if I'll be able to help any more, but it would be helpful to confirm that the lock is working properly. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #854283 4th Sep 2020 6:41pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 741

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Hi thanks for the reply

Before the lock was working fine. Just the door moved about 5mm-7mm and caused the rattling I just moved the catch a little further in and reduced that gap.

I’ll have to have another play to see if I knocked something else, as did also have the rear door card off Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #854285 4th Sep 2020 6:44pm
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Pacha



Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 771

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
I had the opposite issue, but how I solved it might help?

The rear door would sound like it was locking when the doors were locked off the fob, but subsequently the rear door could be opened via the handle (and set the alarm off).

I ended up taking the rear door trim panel off and sitting inside whilst pressing the fob - the door latch was too far in and latch on the handle would not fully close over the latch.

After a bit of adjustment and repeating the process I got the adjustment right. Rgds.

Chris
Post #854287 4th Sep 2020 6:54pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 741

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Thanks that could be it, I’ll check tomorrow Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #854292 4th Sep 2020 7:12pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 741

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Ok so tried the door open lock it and see what the handle did it was locked in one place. This is not how it was when I first brought the car rear door locked handle would move through full travel but not open.

So I realigned the door again and got it fully working from what I can see it was set wrong in the first place then when I moved it it 1/2 worked now it’s 100% working as I think it should be, thanks Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #854639 7th Sep 2020 3:07am
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C&M



Member Since: 28 Aug 2020
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 184

United Kingdom 
Pacha wrote:
I had the opposite issue, but how I solved it might help?

The rear door would sound like it was locking when the doors were locked off the fob, but subsequently the rear door could be opened via the handle (and set the alarm off).

I ended up taking the rear door trim panel off and sitting inside whilst pressing the fob - the door latch was too far in and latch on the handle would not fully close over the latch.

After a bit of adjustment and repeating the process I got the adjustment right.


I have exactly this same problem. locked on the fob and all seemed to lock fine but on checking the drivers side rear door it opened and alarm sounded. I was surprised ( as were my neighbours) how loud the thing was Laughing

Guess I have to remove the door card and see what is going on Defender D250 HSE
Dender 110 XS - sadly gone
VW Polo
VW Caravelle - Gen 6
Post #879038 17th Jan 2021 10:21am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
This is a classic example of a broken wire between door and pillar, which means the actuator for that door doesn't fire when the fob is pressed to lock. Fiddly to fix but not too difficult. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #879043 17th Jan 2021 10:35am
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Jamie W



Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Herts
Posts: 30

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green
I had an issue last week where the rear door would lock with the fob, but would not unlock.
Thought it would have been a broken wire. Had the door card off, the actuator worked on lock/unlock. However the lock mechanism was stiff enough to stop the actuator from fully pulling the rod and unlocking properly.
As it has been quite cold recently I can only think that the grease in the lock had solidified, a spray of lubricant and a manual working of the lock catch etc and all was working as it should be😁
Post #879071 17th Jan 2021 1:25pm
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