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Mother superior



Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Surrey
Posts: 493

United Kingdom 
Clunk diagnosis
Gents
So the puma clunk is really starting to burn my biscuits, so my New Years resolution is to sort the little sod out.
So I’m guessing it’s output shaft, centre diff, rear diff or half shafts, thing is I’m clueless as how to find out what’s what. So has anyone go any tips on how to find the culprit before I venture underneath the Landy, possibly never to return.
Btw she has towed a lot in her previous life.
Thanks for your help
Wes Oh woe, oh woe
My crusty old landrover,
It will not go.
Post #804368 1st Dec 2019 9:22pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3993

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
You can add, UJs, drive flanges, A frame ball joint and any/all suspension bushes to the list of potential culprits too. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #804369 1st Dec 2019 9:26pm
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Mike_E



Member Since: 13 Apr 2017
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 160

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Aintree Green
I tried a load of things on mine... in the end a new clutch sorted it. Backlash not much less but the springs in the clutch actually work to absorb the shock so you dont hear or feel a big clunk on take up or gear changes


Even the missus said it was like a new car afterwards.

Mike
Post #804395 2nd Dec 2019 7:12am
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OsloBlue



Member Since: 14 Jul 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 822

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Oslo Blue
I had a pheasant in my engine bay that used to make my steering wheel columns clunk...

Made my Car smell quite nice for a while. I'm on IG: https://www.instagram.com/osloblue42/
Current: TD5 '110 "Lucinda" Thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62562.html
Post #804407 2nd Dec 2019 9:07am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
There are so many wear points in the drive line that all you can really do is check each one in turn, starting wit the easiest and most accessible (drive flanges) and working towards the engine.

The most common places for the worst wear are the rear drive flanges and the clutch. It's worth checking for the Puma clutch death rattle, but the more recent clutches don't seem to rattle like the old ones did, even when life expired, so the absence of a rattle does not necessarily mean that the clutch isn't knackered (if it rattles, it is definitely knackered). If you take the gearbox to change the clutch, you definitely want to check the output adaptor shaft, which is perhaps the mot notorious weak point in the Puma driveline and tends to fail completely without warning leaving you with no drive at all.
Post #804420 2nd Dec 2019 10:30am
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foggydave



Member Since: 29 Nov 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 263

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Bonatti Grey
I think the easiest place to look first are the rear half shafts that go from the rear diff to the wheels. As a basic check take a wheel off and then prise the central dust cover off. You will then see the splines on the end of the drive poking through a collar. Then move the disc/drum back and fort to see what play there is. If on the splines and inside the dust cover you see rust/red rust dust then the chances are this is the culprit. If the half shafts are ok work back through drive train.
When my half shafts went I checked and as well as needing new half shafts and housings I also founda radius arm rear bush was loose and the panhard bushes needed renewing. So it may be a suspension issue not the drive train. Mine I think was both.

Does your motor drive ok or is it jerky/kangarooing at times?

If you put on your profile where you are located some nice forum person may be able to offer tangible help. Tied to a mast with an Albatross around your neck is rather vague Shocked
Post #804432 2nd Dec 2019 12:07pm
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Mother superior



Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Surrey
Posts: 493

United Kingdom 
Cheers for the replies gents, I’ll start with the half shafts and bushes
Wes Oh woe, oh woe
My crusty old landrover,
It will not go.
Post #804484 2nd Dec 2019 6:35pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 983

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
OsloBlue wrote:
I had a pheasant in my engine bay that used to make my steering wheel columns clunk...

Made my Car smell quite nice for a while.


Rolling with laughter
"my hovercraft is full of eels"


I'm in the "lucky" position that my Defender "cluncked" from day one. So I considered it normal.
Nevertheless I checked some points such as the half shafts. I noticed you could push in/out the rear ones by a few mm, resulting in a clunky noise. But others assured me this was normal, too.
Post #804603 3rd Dec 2019 4:23pm
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Laurie



Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
'A' frame ball joint's easy to check. Start with that. 
Post #804678 4th Dec 2019 1:34am
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Chris86



Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 750

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 USW Chawton White
Easiest to establish cause with 2 people usually.

From the top of my head

Half shafts/Drive flange wear- especially rears
Wear in the prop UJs- or if used heavily offroad the Prop bolts can become slack
if high milage/used hard the diffs can become slack/lashy.

From there the usual suspects are the A-Frame ball joint/bushes- sometimes the bolts through the bushes can become badly necked causing a clunk too.
Worn Panhard rod bushes
Ovalised holes in the front axle to panhard rod mounts- this can manifest as a clunk when setting off, on/off power or stopping/reversing.


Chris
Post #804721 4th Dec 2019 12:36pm
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PCM



Member Since: 25 Jan 2019
Location: North East
Posts: 854

United Kingdom 
I also have a definite clunk when starting off in first and when going into reverse. Sounds too far rear to be the output shaft but I'm really not sure. Once on the move, the car is faultless
I've changed the half shafts to one piece and they were slightly gone, but am looking at the next place up the driveline or the next obvious places to check.
I do have access to a friends ramp so the question is with the car up, where should I be looking/ what should I be doing.
Is there a definitive guide or step by step guide (with imaged prefereably) to drivelline clunk identification. I can take it to my local indy, but in lockdown I'd rather not and would wuite like to give this particular puzzle a go.
Post #877872 12th Jan 2021 1:07am
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3605

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
I hate to say it PCM, but I’m pretty sure yours in normal. Mine does it and always has. I have 1 piece half shaft, new output shaft, new clutch, new a frame ball joint. Handbrake set up has been checked it and isn’t dragging. Still does it!
Post #877879 12th Jan 2021 6:13am
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PCM



Member Since: 25 Jan 2019
Location: North East
Posts: 854

United Kingdom 
Rolling with laughter
Great! I'd still like to know what slack is Normal in each area. And where to check/Look. But have a feeling you might be right and I'm chasing demons.
Post #878073 12th Jan 2021 7:41pm
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stew 46



Member Since: 26 Jan 2012
Location: Wadebridge ,cornwall .
Posts: 561

England 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Are you Ent hasn’t left an empty Stella bottle order one of your seats Rolling with laughter Thumbs Up
Post #878074 12th Jan 2021 7:44pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3605

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
PCM wrote:
Rolling with laughter
Great! I'd still like to know what slack is Normal in each area. And where to check/Look. But have a feeling you might be right and I'm chasing demons.


After the clutch was done, my mechanic said it was the best driving 90 he had ever been in, better than new. He has been in the game 30 years so knows his onions. Still clunks!
Post #878108 13th Jan 2021 6:04am
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