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Bug



Member Since: 03 Mar 2016
Location: Hayling Island
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
110 rear shock absorber bushes worn - replace shocks?
Hi, the rear shock absorber bushes got picked up as an MOT advisory (64 plate 110XS with 108,000 miles, roof tent and lots of dog/SAR kit in the load bay). As shocks are pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things it make sense to me to change them instead of faffing around with the bushes. What's the view on a replacement - standard LR has obviously done me well so far.
Post #876207 4th Jan 2021 3:26pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19449

United Kingdom 
Is it the top or the bottom? The bottom ones are a piece of cake. The top ones are more of a pain. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #876208 4th Jan 2021 3:32pm
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jimbo55



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Midlands
Posts: 384

United Kingdom 
Definitely worth while replacing the shocks, you will get a mix of what brand people recommend. I have old man emu shocks and they have been great and definitely cope with a lot of additional weight in my 90.

I would also suggest you look at going to a pin to pin shock on the rear as well, Gwyn Lewis/IRB developments have a good kit for this.
Post #876210 4th Jan 2021 3:37pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16808

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Personally if the shocks are working I would just replace the bushes, they really don't last very long (typically I replace my rears annually just before the MOT, because they only last about 25k miles). I don't mind a tenner or so for bushes at this regularity, but see no point ditching perfectly good shocks unnecessarily.
Post #876212 4th Jan 2021 3:48pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1758

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
Having recently done this, how do you tend to get the bushes in? I did mine the other week as the old ones had totally collapsed, but the new bushes were one piece, hourglass shaped with a steel sleeve. Ended up chopping them in half rather than try to force them through the eye!
Post #876214 4th Jan 2021 3:49pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19449

United Kingdom 
I was looking at the rear pin mount brackets from D44 the other day too.
What are the advantages? Is it just deleting the top mount captive bush for easier changes only. I’m presuming so. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #876223 4th Jan 2021 4:33pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16808

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
miker wrote:
Having recently done this, how do you tend to get the bushes in? I did mine the other week as the old ones had totally collapsed, but the new bushes were one piece, hourglass shaped with a steel sleeve. Ended up chopping them in half rather than try to force them through the eye!


Washing up liquid and a press or G-clamp has always worked for me. You can also use a long setscrew and two metal plates instead of the clamp or press.
Post #876230 4th Jan 2021 4:53pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1758

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
That was my plan except with grease and a vice. Ran out of time so chopped them and will monitor for next time!
Post #876231 4th Jan 2021 4:54pm
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BogMonster



Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 389

Falkland Islands 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
The cone-shaped bottom bushes go with annoying frequency on later vehicles especially on rough roads like we have here. My record so far is 14 miles from new to the bush literally hanging out - non genuine bought as there were no genuine available on the day I needed them. Didn't bother with another set of the cheap ones!!

I now usually fit polybushes to the lower rears and genuine everywhere else - I don't use poly anywhere else, but they last much much longer on the bottom rear.

Don't underestimate the difference a new set of shocks will make even if you think the other ones are working fine. I just replaced mine because changing bushes in a rush I cross-threaded one of the lower nuts and fked it up, and I'm glad I did because changing for identical Genuine new ones the difference in the back end of the vehicle over rough ground is very noticeable. The originals have just under 40k miles from new (2007) but quite a lot of that has been off road and on rough roads, felt fine if you pump them up and down but were clearly getting tired. ---
2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi
Post #878070 12th Jan 2021 7:20pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
I'll second that. I changed the shocks on mine for Genuine new ones at about 56k and the difference was really noticeable. I think the problem is that they deteriorate so slowly that it's really difficult to notice when they're worn. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #878085 12th Jan 2021 9:23pm
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