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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Un-wiring a trailer socket and relocation to crossmember
Hi folks - quick one:

The 90's off down to see Zagato next week for rustproofing.

One of the things on my to-do list is to remove the rear towbar completely (I've never towed, don't plan on it and have a later licence that limits my towing allowance anyway). I'll sort out a less dangly recovery point in due course.

Ultimately Id like to refit the socket in the crossmember hole (its a puma) in case its ever needed. I understand there's a few tricks to this (rivnuts being ideal, plus there's an alternative part number socket that fits better with the square hole).

But in the short term (ie in the next few nights), I'm not sure how best to remove the wiring so I can remove the lot - is there a plug that can be disconnected? (I have looked and can't see one - I've recently had the interior light cover off but don't remember seeing one back there.

Now in terms of nuts and bolts, I can nip outside and remove the towbar completely and then the crossmember is clear before the rustproofing.But I don't know what to do with the towing electrics. Before I dismantle the socket and start removing wires from the pins, any tips on how to neatly (and quickly) disconnect the tow socket without upsetting the rest of the vehicle electrics would be most welcome.

Thank you.


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Post #861426 13th Oct 2020 6:01pm
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DuncanS



Member Since: 06 Dec 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 295

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Up inside your rear drivers side wheel arch, on the back face there will be a flap. Pull that forward and you'll see a grey rectangular plug. Usually clipped in to the tub. unplug that and that's your harness free (assuming standard vehicle wiring which hasn't been butchered) North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader
Post #861429 13th Oct 2020 6:27pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1695

United Kingdom 
if it’s a 12n 7 pin socket and a genuine landrover one, or an after market one for a defender, then it’s simple to remove. Behind your offside wheel, behind the rear lights there is a plastic panel held there by two Philips screws. If rusted you can get quick grips on the heads to loosen. Remove the two screws and then the flat piece of plastic. Have a torch. You will see a big grey connector that connects the tow bar socket to the main loom. Just unclip. make sure you tape up the loom connector to stop dirt and water ingress. Self amalgamating tape is good for this. The cable will be held to chassis with cable ties. Once removed fit plastic shield and screws. Cleaning the area first and greasing screws.
If 13 pin euro socket there may be another loom to deal with as that will go to under seat battery.
Post #861430 13th Oct 2020 6:31pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
If it's more than a simple plug as described above, then as a temporary measure just cable tie it up in the wheel arch out of the way. I did the same with mine a few months ago for a couple of weeks whilst changing tow bars. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #861462 13th Oct 2020 8:25pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Thanks guys - all done, thanks to your tips. Took about 40 mins.

The big grey plug was there and disconnected relatively easily - I was able to reach up behind the flap without unscrewing it (thankfully as the screws were rotten).

The self-amalgamating tape was a really good tip - I had some in the garage and it has very neatly cocooned the old plug.

Bolts came out pretty easily too.

The back of the car looks so much better now!
Post #861514 14th Oct 2020 10:56am
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