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AlexSmith



Member Since: 05 Sep 2013
Location: Arroio do Meio, RS
Posts: 47

Brazil 2004 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
EGR valve removal for cleaning
First of all, I know there is a post with similar subject and really lots of useful information (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic2227-150.html).

I just followed many of the information found there and got my EGR removed, cleaned and refit at home, with no major tools needed.

So let me start with the tools I used:


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So basically one 8mm and one 10mm sockets (yes, they managed to use 2 different screws on the valve.)

With the tools in hands, I must say the effort needed in order to remove the screws was incredible high. The place where the valve lies is really narrow to get, specially because I don't have small hands. Expect some scratches on your skin if you plan to do it yourself. Smile

Also, standing on the top of the engine is very tiring. I had to be careful to avoid stepping on the wrong place and bending or damaging something.

I found much easier to get to the EGR by using an alternative way of keeping the bonnet opened, using some elastics instead of the standard bonnet holder.


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In the following pictures, I try to make it easier for you to locate the EGR and its screws (there are two on each gasket, in a total of four screws).

From the top of the engine:


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From underneath the vehicle:


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Here you can see the tools hooked up to the screws:


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Once I was able to unscrew the screws, I also had trouble with one of the gaskets falling in a nearly impossible to reach corner of the engine. I had to use a long and hard wire to get the gasket back to my hands, not before spending more than one hour trying to locate it.

Good news is that this is the worst part of the job. Once you have the valve in your hands, it became a simple cleaning job, which I did using mainly WD-40.

And, after a couple hours, here's the EGR removed.


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The EGR dirt was noticeable, as well as the loud noise it did on the 'self-cleaning' stage, when I turned off the engine.

Besides cleaning, I also disassembled the EGR to understand its inner workings. Here are some pictures:


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I read some people used to remove the central gear in order to keep the EGR always closed. Some people from South Africa reported they don't even get the MIL turned on by doing so, but I decided to just clean the EGR and refit it. I'll wait until I do a remap to have it turned off on the ECU.

The refitting job was fairly easy, now I knew how to get to the screws. Just had to be very careful with the gaskets, as I mentioned.

After putting all back in place, the EGR noise was simply gone (ok, I'm still able to hear the valve operating on the self-cleaning stage, but the noise is incredible low now).

I'm very happy with the results up to now and hope this post can be useful to someone else. 2020: Defender 110 SW 300 Tdi 2004 Alpine White
2013-2017: Defender 110 S 2.4 (Puma) 2008 Stornoway Gray
2002-2005: Defender 90 CSW 300 Tdi Dark Green
Post #454984 14th Sep 2015 3:50pm
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Bosvark Kzn



Member Since: 04 Sep 2014
Location: Port Shepstone, Kzn, South Africa
Posts: 7

South Africa 
Hi Alex, it is indeed the case in South Africa, a lot of Puma owners simply unplug the Egr, without the Mil illuminating, I did it on my MY2011 2.4 as well, but I also fitted a blanking plate (made of 1,2mm thick stainless steel) between the Egr and the cooler, just to be 100% sure the Egr is blocked off.
Post #455006 14th Sep 2015 4:54pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

Noticed how you bungeed the bonnet. Have you now got two dents in the bulge ?
Post #455011 14th Sep 2015 4:57pm
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AlexSmith



Member Since: 05 Sep 2013
Location: Arroio do Meio, RS
Posts: 47

Brazil 2004 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
Bosvark Kzn wrote:
Hi Alex, it is indeed the case in South Africa, a lot of Puma owners simply unplug the Egr, without the Mil illuminating, I did it on my MY2011 2.4 as well, but I also fitted a blanking plate (made of 1,2mm thick stainless steel) between the Egr and the cooler, just to be 100% sure the Egr is blocked off.


Yes, that's what I heard. And I tried it here (my Defender is MY2008, but also a Puma 2.4), but after exactly three starts, MIL turned on and those common faults showed up in the scanner. Sad 2020: Defender 110 SW 300 Tdi 2004 Alpine White
2013-2017: Defender 110 S 2.4 (Puma) 2008 Stornoway Gray
2002-2005: Defender 90 CSW 300 Tdi Dark Green
Post #455026 14th Sep 2015 6:01pm
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AlexSmith



Member Since: 05 Sep 2013
Location: Arroio do Meio, RS
Posts: 47

Brazil 2004 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
theorangebandit wrote:
Noticed how you bungeed the bonnet. Have you now got two dents in the bulge ?


You mean some damage to the painting due to the wipers end touching the bonnet? Fortunately not, because I used two not-very-strong elastics, one on each side, and I cared to avoid too much pressure.

I did a small crack on one of the wiper bolt cover ("plastic nut cap" on the picture below) the last time I opened the bonnet that much. Didn't know that could happen by that time.

 2020: Defender 110 SW 300 Tdi 2004 Alpine White
2013-2017: Defender 110 S 2.4 (Puma) 2008 Stornoway Gray
2002-2005: Defender 90 CSW 300 Tdi Dark Green
Post #455027 14th Sep 2015 6:05pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

I've cracked one of mine too, hasn't caused any issues. I have two tiny dents as I'm used to being able to throw the bonnet right up and bungee securely. Before I owned a puma I had never worked on a puma. Lesson learned. I now simply remove the bonnet when needing the space.
Post #455029 14th Sep 2015 6:13pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Haven't looked for the thread but wasn't there a TSB about removing the engine lift bracket?


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Post #455279 15th Sep 2015 5:40pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

The advise for the engine hoist bracket was to either remove or to check the bolts are tight. It is common for them to rattle loose and cause an irritating rattle when engine is running. And possibly chaff on pipes and cables in the area. Mine was already removed haha
Post #455283 15th Sep 2015 5:55pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19533

United Kingdom 
Glad my EGR is effectively dead by remap. Thumbs Up

Anyone know the torque for the hoist / lift bracket?
Post #455316 15th Sep 2015 7:26pm
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Primaryroo



Member Since: 15 Aug 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 20

England 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Hi guys just taking off egr..... No dramas but on close inspection and looking at removing the center gear. The shaft that is connected to the egr blanking bit retracts and extends.... And in the black lid there is a movable sensor where the top of the shaft sits...... Would this throw up a fault as it seems to make contact and therefor would give an anologe guide to the computer or am I over complicating the sensor 🤔 series 2a 1966
defender 90 1991
discovery 3 2005
discovery 2 2003
defender puma 110 2008
defender puma ex scottish power 2.4 2011
Post #860304 7th Oct 2020 6:31pm
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AlexSmith



Member Since: 05 Sep 2013
Location: Arroio do Meio, RS
Posts: 47

Brazil 2004 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
From my experience, everything I tried (unplugging, using the blank-plate or removing the central gear) made the Check Engine light come up and EGR faults to show up in the scanner. But many people from South Africa report they did it without any issues... Perhaps they have a different map file in their ECU? I really don't know. 2020: Defender 110 SW 300 Tdi 2004 Alpine White
2013-2017: Defender 110 S 2.4 (Puma) 2008 Stornoway Gray
2002-2005: Defender 90 CSW 300 Tdi Dark Green
Post #860321 7th Oct 2020 7:28pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2664

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Great thread - should be stickied Thumbs Up Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #860449 8th Oct 2020 1:13pm
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sikDefender



Member Since: 22 Jul 2020
Location: 2447
Posts: 8

Australia 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
nice thread. thanks for this mate.

I'm about to take this little job on this weekend - 2.4 Puma 2010

quick question - I got the little resistor EGR bypass mod off eBay too . . . anyone tried this one out?

link below:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/162562040332?h...Swcj5ZSz9Z if somethings hard to do, its not worth doing - Homer
*just jokes... try it till you break something
Post #913057 19th Jul 2021 12:48pm
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swt



Member Since: 24 Aug 2018
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 149

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
SikDefender- did you try the resistor mod?
Post #915402 4th Aug 2021 8:27am
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AlexSmith



Member Since: 05 Sep 2013
Location: Arroio do Meio, RS
Posts: 47

Brazil 2004 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
I'd like to know that too. Don't see why it would not work. Unless there are other sensors controlling the gases flow besides the EGR's parking points (MAF, maybe?). Otherwise the EGR valve itself would work as a blank plate. Sounds good. But let's hear from @sikDefender. 2020: Defender 110 SW 300 Tdi 2004 Alpine White
2013-2017: Defender 110 S 2.4 (Puma) 2008 Stornoway Gray
2002-2005: Defender 90 CSW 300 Tdi Dark Green
Post #926907 23rd Oct 2021 10:28pm
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