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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Handbrake issue and advice on removal of rear output flange
Hi all, had an issue with my handbrake where unless it was fully adjusted off it would 'stick' for about a quarter of each rotation. I took the drum off in the hope it was full of crud but it wasn't too bad, cleaned it up and put it all back, still the same.

What I did notice however was that if I hit the drum with a mallet when it's 'stuck' it frees up and I can adjust the drum properly (as per workshop manual) and it works lovely on 3 clicks. As soon as I release the handbrake however, it sticks again until I hit it with the mallet and then it's fine.

I assume it can't be a warped drum at fault, and something must be sicking which is being released when I hit the drum? Any ideas or should I just remove the whole thing and service it on the bench?

Also on removal it became apparent that one (maybe two) of the protruding bolts are damaged along with the 'drum screw' which will need replacing. I assume LR did this when they changed the clutch. Unfortunately this means removing the rear output flange from the transfer box by the looks of it. I have done a search on the forum, but couldn't find any exact answer - as per the workshop manual do I need the special tool to undo the flange nut and do I need the special tool to insert the seal?

Any tips/guidance appreciated as I now need to order up some bits and hopefully don't miss anything! So far I'm going to order STC3433 from Bearmach (I may as well change the flange whilst I'm there as it comes in the kit).

Thanks Thumbs Up Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #857069 20th Sep 2020 4:24pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1727

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Apart from either forgetting to, or trying to be a smart arse and changing the seal without dropping the oil out first I can't remember anything complicated or specialist tools used when I did mine.

Big circlip pliers to do the clip that hods the oil thrower in position maybe

I think Blackwolf did an excellent write up reference the depth to put the new seal in - IIRC!

Sounds like the garage haven';t put the return spring back in the proper position /. orientation.

Good luck
Post #857072 20th Sep 2020 4:55pm
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Gloucesternige



Member Since: 17 Jan 2020
Location: In the garage
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
The biggest issue i found with removing the output flange on my 2.4 Puma was the fact the factory had fitted it with a bearing fit type sealer, so it was effectively "Glued" on. I applied heat from a blow torch to the flange and then used a three legged puller to remove the flange.

Below is a link to my You Tube channel, you can see the work being carried out on there. Nige

Check out my You Tube channel
https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel
Post #857242 21st Sep 2020 5:48pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Hi Nige, already a subscriber and didn't even think of looking there! Rolling Eyes

Will take a look now but not feeling good vibes from what you said!

I've decided to rebuild the handbrake assembly with new parts tonight, now it's removed from the vehicle (how easy was that).

I will attempt the flange tomorrow when I have more time and daylight hours Thumbs Up

Thanks all! Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #857247 21st Sep 2020 6:27pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7682

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
could it be the handbrake cable sticking? Can you see it fully return when released?

Had an electrical faults and hb cable acted as earth? Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #857288 21st Sep 2020 8:55pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Hi all and thanks for the advice!

So the flange did come off without a puller and/or heat, however it did take 15 minutes with a large blunt flat punch and a hammer. The reason it took so long was because I turned it a quarter turn every 3-4 hits so that it came off evenly. At first I wasn't sure it was moving, but after a while it was easy to see it was coming a bit at a time. Mine, like many others seemed to have some sort of bearing fit/stud lock compound applied to the splines which had gone hard and was sticking the two parts together.

I cleaned up the output shaft, fitted the new flange, guard, seal etc. and also installed the fibre washer along with the large thick washer and new nyloc nut. The old setup didn't use a fibre washer, but I presume this is because there was a sealant on the splines themselves stopping oil from escaping. New flange went on and off easily with a few taps once the splines were cleaned, but was by no means loose.

As for the handbrake, for the sake of £50 I was able to buy all new parts with the exception of the back plate. My old back plate was fine and cleaned up really well. It is safe to say that the new parts (springs, shoes, cable etc.) have solved the issue and I now have a handbrake that is 'as new'. What a difference!

One tip for anyone else attempting this - don't do what I did and struggle to fit the handbrake cable for 20 minutes. I found that if you unbolted the handbrake lever from the seat box you could pull it through enough to work on it (and adjust cable if you ever needed) from the cab. The problem was that I was trying to insert the end of the cable outer complete with rubber grommet - as I found out it's much easier to pull off the rubber grommet, fit this to the handbrake lever first, then pull the eye/cable through it. As mine was pretty tight I just used some string tied around the eye to pull it through. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #858235 26th Sep 2020 3:04pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Sorry to bring this back up but after 6 months I've got oil leaking into the hand brake drum.

I'm guessing that the pattern parts I fitted have failed or something has gone amiss so I need to strip it down.

I seem to remember reading a thread here somewhere that only the genuine output flange and seal won't leak and that the pattern parts are sometimes not true - however I can't find that post so may be making it up.

Seems strange it's gone now, handbrake was working lovely too, only thing I can think of is that the weather is warmer so the oil is slightly thinner... Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #905777 31st May 2021 12:05am
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Quick update, on stripping down it was clear to see the oil was coming from the seal on the surface where the shaft runs through it.

It had coated everything in the handbrake in a lovely film of shiny oil!

Two things I spotted that could have contributed... 1 the nut (despite being a new lock nut and tourqed on assembly) wasn't tight enough and 2 the dust cover had a mark where it touches the outward protrusion of the seal.

I can only put it down to the warmer weather and the oil being thinner that it's showed up now.

New parts hopefully coming tomorrow and I'll reassemble with a little thread lock behind the nyloc nut to hopefully hold it in place. As it's fairly easy to access I may even remove prop in 1 month and check it again. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #906397 3rd Jun 2021 10:40pm
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