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Ben01

Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: International
Posts: 14

Help~2.4 shutting down as soon as it gets hot- rough idle-

I haven't been on here for a few years as I got too busy with work...I couldn't recover my user ID for some reason. Happy to be back and have some time to work on my 90...not happy it is broken!

I'm chasing a problem where my 2.4 shuts down as it warms up after about 10-15 minutes of driving. This immediately follows a rough idle and power loss.
The problem first appeared after getting fuel at a dodgy station. I tried a few times to fix it and wasn't able to work on the problem for about 9 months, which may have made it worse??

Replaced with genuine or OEM parts:

Fuel pump, VCV, pressure relief valve, pressure sensor and crankshaft sensor, fuel filter
Breather hose was broken and patched. Now being replaced

I dropped the tank last night and there is some dirt in the tank and in the sender. I doubt it could cause this much of an issue.

Other potential problems:

The ECU is remapped and drove without a problem for 5 years. The EGR valve is shut off by the ECU. I do have a spare stock ECU, but need an AS10 (happy to buy one from a member).

I did have an electrical issue once where the battery connectors were loose. This was fixed by me.

On a few occasions while trying to fix this issue the temperature shot up and this was traced back to the relay under the driver's seat, which was replaced The problem hasn't been duplicating itself. Could this be caused by an electrical problem? Where should I look for a bad ground connection?

Codes

I am only getting a fault code through my Nanocom that the ecu lost communication, which I understand is a common code that doesn't mean much

What else could it be?

Last edited by Ben01 on 5th Aug 2020 1:39pm. Edited 1 time in total

5th Aug 2020 12:40am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3186

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

Is there a temperature sensor on the High Pressure pump? Just guessing this, but since you mention that problem happens when it gets hot ( I hope by hot you mean normal working temperature, like 90 degrees celsius). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

5th Aug 2020 6:22am

bear100

Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1867

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

There is a CHT sensor on the rear of the engine that will also give the symptoms you have....I know first hand!
A tell tale sign is the temperature needle moving when the engine is cold and ignition is on, although not always but usually seen climbing quicker than normal.
They are quite cheap and easy to fit so worth a go, lots of threads on here about it

2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

5th Aug 2020 9:37am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7682

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

By hot do you mean to the horizontal position or needle above into the red? Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop

5th Aug 2020 10:24am

Ben01

Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: International
Posts: 14

Dinnu wrote:
Is there a temperature sensor on the High Pressure pump? Just guessing this, but since you mention that problem happens when it gets hot ( I hope by hot you mean normal working temperature, like 90 degrees celsius).

Normal working temperature. I believe the pump should be ruled out.

5th Aug 2020 1:37pm

Ben01

Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: International
Posts: 14

bear100 wrote:
There is a CHT sensor on the rear of the engine that will also give the symptoms you have....I know first hand!
A tell tale sign is the temperature needle moving when the engine is cold and ignition is on, although not always but usually seen climbing quicker than normal.
They are quite cheap and easy to fit so worth a go, lots of threads on here about it

thanks I will research and likely replace as it is cheap/easy. i didn't notice the temperature moving quicker than normal

5th Aug 2020 1:40pm

Ben01

Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: International
Posts: 14

jst wrote:
By hot do you mean to the horizontal position or needle above into the red?

horizontal position and/or after about 10-15 minutes of driving (sometimes less)

5th Aug 2020 1:41pm

shropshiredefender

Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 832

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

bear100 wrote:
There is a CHT sensor on the rear of the engine that will also give the symptoms you have....I know first hand!
A tell tale sign is the temperature needle moving when the engine is cold and ignition is on, although not always but usually seen climbing quicker than normal.
They are quite cheap and easy to fit so worth a go, lots of threads on here about it

Good place to start - in my case I had a very minor radiator leak, climbing hills gave me a "dirty fuel" type misfire, 200 miles cruising at 70 ish down the Motorway - no problem, heavy A road traffic misfire again. This was one journey from Scotland to home. CHT sensor was doing its job, protecting the engine from overheating due to low coolant.

Just because you're offended doesn't mean you're right.

5th Aug 2020 4:50pm

Ben01

Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: International
Posts: 14

I had a coolant leak previously which was traced to a hose. Should I flush the system now, or not needed? Would I still be having problems with the sensor?

5th Aug 2020 4:53pm

shropshiredefender

Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 832

Frankly I don't know.
But the symptoms that you describe point to the CHT sensor either doing its job properly or doing its job because it's faulty.
It does not throw any fault codes and is difficult to diagnose, replacing it is relatively cheap and easy. Just because you're offended doesn't mean you're right.

5th Aug 2020 5:19pm

Ben01

Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: International
Posts: 14

Update...CHT sensor replaced, thermostat replaced, MAF sensor, MAP sensor, tank cleaned, Ecu replaces. I still have the same problems. Where to look next? No fault codes are coming up on the Nanocom.

1st Nov 2020 3:09pm

Angus_Beef

Member Since: 30 Apr 2015
Location: Oslo
Posts: 434

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey

How does your coolant level look? Often the cap won't hold pressure and the coolant can boil. the temp gauge on the dash may not show this as it doesn't move until the temp is extreme...

Click image to enlarge Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭

1st Nov 2020 3:54pm

Ben01

Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: International
Posts: 14

Coolant level is ok. I just flushed the system.

1st Nov 2020 4:54pm

Spurge

Member Since: 19 Jun 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 5

1983 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Coniston Green

I've just sorted one that is very similar, clean out swirl pot in the fuel tank and replace the fuel filter head, there is a membrane in the filter head to bleed out air, this was blocked up on the one I've been on with so air couldn't escape the system. Bearmach do the filter head.

2nd Nov 2020 7:59am

Ben01

Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: International
Posts: 14

I will try this next. Still no codes.

27th Nov 2020 7:07pm

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