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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

TD5 90 rear X member replacement
OK i need too replace cross member on 03 TD5 HT and need to remove the tank and the only way i can see is too remover the tub or tub floor as tank can not drop out under from chases or am i missing sum thing
Post #832024 19th May 2020 6:41pm
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jrule



Member Since: 10 Aug 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 302

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
You can do without removing the tub although is a bit of a pig of a job especially if bolts corroded. You have to remove anti roll bar and tank guard and then should be able to manoeuvre the tank out. The tank guard has fixing nuts in the rear cross member and also to chassis legs from memory. It is easier if you have access from above and often people cut out an access panel to the fuel pump so you can disconnect loom and lines more easily.
Post #832032 19th May 2020 7:27pm
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jrule



Member Since: 10 Aug 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 302

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
This is quite helpful for guard removal

https://yrmit.co.uk/workshops/land-rover-d...placement/
Post #832035 19th May 2020 7:30pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

now that makes a lot sens,fitting and bolt it up from out side Whistle
Post #832192 20th May 2020 1:49pm
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4784

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
I have dropped my tank recently. It's very tight and awkward but it slides forward towards the axle then half way down before you can remove the pipes and plugs Thumbs Up 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton
Post #832226 20th May 2020 4:54pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

manage to remover fuel tank cradle but cut one side and will remove captive nut and nut bolt back in place

next thing remove tank very tight and awkward its five o'clock and time pint or two Thumbs Up
Post #832233 20th May 2020 5:30pm
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4784

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
Thumbs Up 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton
Post #832243 20th May 2020 6:13pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

tank out in three moves Thumbs Up new hoses order for tank vent 6 mm 1/2 m long and 3/4 1/2 m long next have look at loom from the N side rear O that`s not good out with box wire split conduit and tools 2 hr later this pasty o clock 89 F time for brake
Post #832390 21st May 2020 2:24pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2222

United Kingdom 
Thirty one years old so it’s not done badly.
And l bet it’s worked hard for many of those years as well. An ordinary van would have been scrapped twenty years ago.
Post #832404 21st May 2020 4:03pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

up date has been bit slow to date as needed more work to rebuild both chassis leg so that i can use the new cross member that i have will post pic late to day work in progress




Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge


as you can see metal moth has been at it



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge



will have to make two ^ chassis box section work in progress
Post #834187 30th May 2020 7:44am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7681

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
That going to take a few hours to sort! No legs on replacement cross member then? Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #834290 30th May 2020 7:27pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

no and good job to had to faecal both sides to work with ware metal moth had made holes in the chasse legs

Last edited by dorsetsmith on 17th Oct 2020 1:41pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #834296 30th May 2020 7:38pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 601

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
Well done, I didn’t think anyone else replaces the cross member the proper way without resorting to “crossmember with extensions” bodgery

I had a supply of the triangular closing plates in one of your photos from the manufacturer at one point as these are unavailable to purchase separately.
Post #834302 30th May 2020 8:39pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

that right now priced £ 200 a side but out stock will be making the replacement ones
Post #834303 30th May 2020 8:46pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3183

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Did a crossmember replacement for a friend. Decided to take the tub off, as the top was coming off anyway to attend to the cappings. With the tub off, access is much better. He had purchased KVB000290G from Paddock, that comes without legs.
Indeed, I could not find the top webs between the cross member and the chassis rails, so those were made inhouse from a 2mm sheet. templates were taken to copy the folds and holes locations.
Similarly, there are 2 trapezoidal plates at the bottom just between the chassis rails and the crossmember. These are welded in flat and then the edges hammered around the chassis before completing the weld.

Measurements for the crossmember location were taken relative to the tub support bracket and A frame crossmember.

If i had to do it again (hope not as it is a pig of a job) i would do as much welding as possible with the fuel tank cradle in place and fully tightened, as after i finished, I found that the cradle holes did not align perfectly with the holes next to the roll bar brackets. Holes at crossmember however aligned perfectly. Not sure if the welding distorted a bit the rails, or the sanblasting and galvanizing of the cradle warped the cradle.

End result was very satisfying though. Not possible to detect that the crossmember was ever replaced as all factory welds were re done. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #834307 30th May 2020 9:38pm
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