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paddy9154



Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Crewe
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 
Cat D
Hi all,

First post so please be gentle.

I'm currently toying with the idea of a Td5 as a second car / weekend toy.

I've found what was initially a good offer but turns out to be a Cat D due to front end collision damage. Never even considered this before but I guess it's not ideal, hence the price.

So given the value of an unmolested example is Cat D the sign of some hefty repair?

Thanks in advance

Pad
Post #82811 1st Aug 2011 12:19pm
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10363

United Kingdom 
It's not always a bad deal, if you can live with it being a Cat D..and as long as you check it over VERY thoroughly, they can be a bargain !
Make sure it has an engineers report too.
Post #82819 1st Aug 2011 12:59pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Hi and welcome to the forum Thumbs Up IIRC these are the Cat explanations:

Cat A - Fire damaged (burnt-out), flood damaged, or severely damaged with no servicable parts.
Cat B - Damaged beyond economical repair and/or severe structural damage.
Cat C - Damaged, but repairable. Generally applied to older vehicles.
Cat D - Slightly damaged sometimes stolen and found after claim has been paid or high cost of repair combined with difficulty obtaining new parts to enable an economic repair. Basically the car isn't worth repairing as it would cost more to repair than what the vehicle is worth.


I'm sure someone in the trade will come along and aid you further.
Post #82820 1st Aug 2011 1:02pm
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
my first td5 was a cat d, farmers 90 tc that had a damaged ( slightly bent) rear cross member due to a wayward trailer and a damaged rear tub. 50k and fsh from matfords. paid £4000+vat and at the time that was 50% of its true value.

front damage is a little more iffy it the chassis took a good whack, BUT with a LR you can have a new , galvy chassis fitted for £2500 so again no real problem
Post #82841 1st Aug 2011 4:19pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5424

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
If you like/want it take it to a specialist, get it on a ramp, and get it checked through, for you. NOT for the seller.

If all ok pay a lot less than book value


Andy
Post #82855 1st Aug 2011 8:04pm
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paddy9154



Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Crewe
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 
Thanks for the help with this.

Still a lot of thinking to do, I know it doesnt matter if its been repaired properly but its still a bit of a psychological hurdle!
Post #82893 2nd Aug 2011 10:31am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
paddy9154 wrote:
Thanks for the help with this.

Still a lot of thinking to do, I know it doesnt matter if its been repaired properly but its still a bit of a psychological hurdle!


It needn't be! Especially if it's 'stolen recovered 'and the damage you describe is a result of that!' Ask what the history is and who did the repairs! Then contact the repairers and/or ask the seller to look at the invoice for the repairs. That will be a good indication how good or bad it is, if the information you requested is readily fothcoming it may be worth a sniff! If they don't have them or make feeble excuses WALK AWAY with a clear conscience!!!!

As Landy Andy so rightly said "Get it on a ramp!" An AA or RAC inspection may be worth shelling out for, or, if you have a decent independant nearby gauge the sellers reaction by asking if he minds an independant mechanical/valuation/inspection of the vehicle at your cost being carried out.

Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #82898 2nd Aug 2011 11:44am
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