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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Ok, another ‘clunking’ problem.
Ok. I’ve got a clunk, and it seems to be getting worse/louder. It is from the rear left. I don’t think it is suspension related, or a frame related, as when I drive up my final hill, foot constantly on the gas, driveline taut/under tension etc, it makes no noise whatsoever despite numerous fast bends, hairpins, speed humps, etc, which would put a lot of pressure into the rear axel, both straight and also to the left and right.

The clunk comes almost universally from when either pulling away or when changing up a gear at low speed/revs (normally 1,2, and 3) or changing down a gear. i.e. when the drive train is not under tension or turning at speed. For example, if I change gear at high speed and feather the clutch properly, no clunk. If I drive at high speed and corner, no clunk. But if I brake, accelerate at low speed, etc, anything that releases tension or requires movement when there’s play in the drive train, clunk.

I changed the output shaft just 18mths ago and have only put 12-15k on since, and further the clunk is very definitely to the rear of the vehicle, so I’m hoping it’s not that. I also changed the UE joints last year with HD versions and also the dampers and bushes were replaced. As mentioned, with no noise when cornering, going over humps or when at speed, (and the driveline taught) I’m hoping it’s not suspension or a frame related.

So I’m thinking half shafts? Any thoughts? I’m keen to start a dig around tomorrow and order parts. Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #817885 2nd Mar 2020 12:04pm
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shropshiredefender



Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 832

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
A good place to start is to check the drive flanges, they seem to wear more than the half shafts and are easy and cheap to replace and should be greased at every service.
Hope it's that simple/cheap. Just because you're offended doesn't mean you're right.
Post #817906 2nd Mar 2020 2:59pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Yes, my thinking exactly. I’m wondering if I buy HD flanges or one piece half shafts.... Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #817911 2nd Mar 2020 3:58pm
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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 906

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
May I suggest popping the plastic covers off the ends of the rear half shafts and squirting some motorcycle chain lube in there. Leave the solvent to evaporate for a bit, then put the caps on and go for a drive. If the clonk is reduced, that's the problem.

If you're not doing heavy duty stuff, you can still get the Disco 2 one piece rear half shafts very cheaply from eBay and they're dead easy to fit.
Post #817914 2nd Mar 2020 4:23pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1758

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
Grenadier wrote:
Yes, my thinking exactly. I’m wondering if I buy HD flanges or one piece half shafts....


If i didn't have a salisbury I'd 100% go one piece half shafts. The best splined joint in the world will still have more play than a single piece of metal!
Post #817917 2nd Mar 2020 4:37pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
OK, got it up on a mate’s lift. 99% sure it’s the ARB link arms/bushes that are shot. Could pull the ARB backwards and forwards, replicating the ‘clunk’. New pair ordered. Thumbs Up



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 Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #818312 5th Mar 2020 5:02pm
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