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dioliahary



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 668

Scotland 
Prop shaft question
How to know when to change, no play in mine, always greased but after recent CV joint failure. I started thinking good idea to change. Before they fail do you get any warnings. Little paranoid 🤨😂 1990 200tdi conversion 90
Post #816219 20th Feb 2020 10:45pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7682

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
the ujs or the actual splines on the prop? Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #816227 20th Feb 2020 11:22pm
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Martyn668



Member Since: 17 Mar 2013
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 134

United Kingdom 
Watching this. Garage just gave me an advisory on the propshaft. Said it was almost as cheap to change the propshaft as the UJs. Haven't looked, but can't believe that's true, even if, as they say, a propshaft os only £40. (NOt sure if it's front or rear. I'll talk to them when I pick it up from its MOT and service.
Post #816230 20th Feb 2020 11:42pm
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dioliahary



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 668

Scotland 
Thinking was centred on the UJ, mine must have turned some miles over. 1990 200tdi conversion 90
Post #816232 20th Feb 2020 11:44pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19535

United Kingdom 
Martyn668 wrote:
Watching this. Garage just gave me an advisory on the propshaft. Said it was almost as cheap to change the propshaft as the UJs. Haven't looked, but can't believe that's true, even if, as they say, a propshaft os only £40. (NOt sure if it's front or rear. I'll talk to them when I pick it up from its MOT and service.

Only if you factor in labour fees and a non genuine prop shaft, quick fix for them with increased likelihood of profits.

UJ's per for for a single prop are around £50 inclusive. Obviously the slider is non replaceable.
Genuine props are £250 each upwards. This is for a Puma though.

On mine, both sliders were in perfect condition but all UJ's had some wear so I did one prop at a time so I could use I think in between with diff loved in 2WD with care.
All in £200 for brand new parts, props like brand new after but it's a pig of a job so you pay for your own labour. Whistle Rolling with laughter

Two new props would have been north of £500 for a pair at least.
I found when the UJ's on mine were going excess movement noticeable on the gearstick was the tell tale sign usually at lower speeds under 10mph, then it would get progressively worse on not too long.
Not keeping them greased regularity enough was the problem with mine and missing grease nipples.

Changing out for brand new is of course easier yes, but they still even then need to be swapped over a job in its self. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #816234 21st Feb 2020 12:11am
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Daisy90



Member Since: 01 Feb 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 843

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Alveston Red
There was a recall for missing grease nipples on puma props Thumbs Up
Post #816239 21st Feb 2020 5:09am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6031

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
From these guys: https://www.dandfltd.co.uk/

They quoted me £98.00 + £12.00 carriage plus vat as applicable. for a 110 Td5 late (non salisbury) axle rear prop (FTC4198 is the LR number)

was in 2016 so might have gone up a bit since then.
Post #816246 21st Feb 2020 7:55am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16858

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The only way to assess UJs thoroughly without dismantling them is to unbolt the prop from the flange and fully articulate the UJ throughout its full range of movement, checking that it is smooth and moves freely but is not loose and has no tight spots. Lubricate the joint while it's off and articulate it to work the grease around (strictly you should always grease it off the flange) and also make sure that the grease flows evenly to all four yokes. Uneven grease distribution is a sure sign of imminent failure, although you can dismantle and clean the joint if this is the only problem.

When you've finished, refit the propshaft but if possible don't reuse the nylon insert stiff nuts more than twice (they're 3/8" UNF thread so easily available and cheap to replace).
Post #816267 21st Feb 2020 9:55am
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BogMonster



Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 389

Falkland Islands 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
You tend to get what you pay for. The wife's 110 needed a new prop eighteen months ago, UJs went. It was original and had 13 years of mixed use including lots of off road use with a fair load in. I bought an Allmakes one for £90 instead of a genuine one for about £500. Two days ago I had to replace it again, as the cups on the UJs were actually loose in the yokes on one end. I bought another cheapie, but I'll be keeping a closer eye on them as I had assumed I could forget about UJ problems for a while Rolling Eyes ---
2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi
Post #816277 21st Feb 2020 10:36am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2077

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey
Blackwolf, what techniques do you use to get the grease to flow to all 4 bearings ?
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.
Post #816278 21st Feb 2020 10:38am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16858

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Grease regularly and it should be fine, the problems come when the grease dries out and coagulates in the UJ. When this happens really all you can do is dismantle the UJ, clean it thoroughly including the internal grease drillings, and reassemble.

There is a good chance that you'll find that by the time the grease has dried the joint has had it, so keep a spare on hand.

It only takes an hour or so with practice to service a UJ, it's not difficult.
Post #816296 21st Feb 2020 12:26pm
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dioliahary



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 668

Scotland 
Not taking any chances, going to replace at the earliest opportunity, but will not be able to splash the cash on OEM. WIll do some research on best quality non OEM. 1990 200tdi conversion 90
Post #816325 21st Feb 2020 5:27pm
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jaygti



Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: essex
Posts: 375

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
You generally get plenty of warning before a u/j let’s go. Rumbling, vibration etc, and it tends to get steadily worse before it goes bang.

I personally wouldn’t bother replacing the whole shaft for no real reason. Just a waste of money.

I view the changing of a u/j almost as a service item, it’s something that needs doing every few years , like changing the gearbox oil.
The 1st time I changed one it was pre internet, so it took ages as I was making it up as I went along. But as Blackwolf said it’s an hours work. Straight forward but a bit messy.
By the way gwyn Lewis make nice ones.



Click image to enlarge
 2002 td5 90 county hardtop
Post #816334 21st Feb 2020 7:00pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7682

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Before you fit a new UK, cut a slot in the end of each spider leg to allow the grease to lubricate more efficiently, has worked for me, and many others for a good while.

Along with greasing the only real way to check for play is to unbolt the prop. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #816360 21st Feb 2020 10:53pm
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