 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Heated mirrors |
 
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123   
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The billit arms wouldn’t fit with standard hinges unless you drill a hole through them. The optimill hinges come with a pre-drilled hope to receive their arms.
Here’s a picture of the bit of cable that would be seen using OEM hinges and arms.  Click image to enlarge 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html Instagram - @r22oyp Roy |
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24th Jan 2020 10:05am |
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| drakes Member Since: 09 Oct 2009 Location: Hexham Posts: 111 
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I made my own in 1992 using some thin copper sheet as a heat sink for a resistor ( well before the stick on ones were available in LR sizes) and am still using the today. I would suggest using a seperate switch as I find I use them all the time in the wet and you wouldn't want your heated screen on all the time.
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24th Jan 2020 12:52pm |
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| gumdrop Member Since: 16 Jan 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 125
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See this link :
https://la7dja.org/defender/mirror-heating/ Very simple I did it this way. Cheers Simon ------------------------- 50th D90 - my toy! Freelander SE Td4 3 door - local run around 1958 Series 1- Rag top! |
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24th Jan 2020 1:27pm |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123
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I did mine as in the above link before I bought the optimill arms 👍 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html
Instagram - @r22oyp Roy |
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25th Jan 2020 4:30pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531
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I am still curious as to what the current draw is, it should be low being LED.
I have emailed Optimil to ask, I haven’t heard anything though as of yet but it is a weekend of course. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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25th Jan 2020 4:46pm |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123
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I’ve messaged James for you, he’s usually pretty good at replying 😎 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html
Instagram - @r22oyp Roy |
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25th Jan 2020 4:50pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531
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👍🏻 I think this one might be added to the wanted list but depending on the current draw. If it’s under 400mA the pair I think it’s be okay in addition to my existing ‘extras’.
There is always a relay but I’m not too keen on wiring the interior lights feed to a relay coil. It may have some unwanted side effects. Unless I used door switches as the ground switch instead completely independent of the 10AS. Looks a good product anyway. Only thing I’d probably do is paint the hinge body colour. Not the arm though.  Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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25th Jan 2020 5:03pm |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123
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They’re 10watts each
But we don’t know if that’s a proper 10watts at what voltage. If they’re just 10 watts at normal battery voltage that makes about 0.8Amps per side. 😬 They made no difference to my interior lights plus extra one I think he rear plus footwell lighting. 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html Instagram - @r22oyp Roy |
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25th Jan 2020 9:34pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19531
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Hmmm, that's surprising for LED.
I worked out the interior light circuit was safe to use up to around 1A around the same draw as the factory incandescent light fitting. That's providing that the current is is fed via that circuit only for the mirror lighting. Obviously the heating side would be separate. A relay coil would be about 150mA, but as I said I'm not sure how the AS10 system would react to that. It would take the load down on the circuit though, you could use an inline Diode too to block any voltage spikes going back to the circuit and a diode equipped coil relay to surpass flupyback voltage and dissipate. I have SMD LED strips on the circuit on mine, and it's fine with that, it even fades off similar to the factory system all be it a bit faster and this is around 620mA if I remember rightly. If a relay was used as a switching method ti take the load of the AS10 interior lighting circuit. Say it did work okay, it would then be a simple on and off circuit on the relay output as there would not the any voltage dropping fade out when switched off. I don't think that would worry many people though. There are many different types of relay though that can be used for different effects in time delay. My only reservation is adverse affects that could be appear by having the circuit seeing a relay coil. Being electronic, that's unknown. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't take kindly to voltage spikes and similar behaviour though. Difficult one. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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25th Jan 2020 9:58pm |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123
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The interior light runs off a 10A fuse, which also feeds the radio and the clock.
There’s also a feed from a 30A fuse which is what I’m guessing is the alarm feed. Which would power the mirrors as they’re wired to the AS10 unit. **they don’t come on when you turn the interior light on**. Just when the car is locked/unlocked. So I think you’d be fine with whatever really. 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html Instagram - @r22oyp Roy |
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25th Jan 2020 10:22pm |
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