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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16876

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Fan bearing - has anyone replaced it?
I'm sure that I remember not too long ago reading a thread on here by someone who'd managed to replace the bearing upon which the fan runs, without having to pay the outrageous £200+ for a new bracket assembly. However despite diligent searching I cannot find the thread that I am imagining.

Has anyone managed to do this? It should be possible, provided that the parts can be pressed apart and reassembled.

Thanks.
Post #810847 18th Jan 2020 3:03pm
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keef9t



Member Since: 13 Mar 2016
Location: manchester
Posts: 168

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Post #810906 18th Jan 2020 9:47pm
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6480

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49803...an+bearing

????  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #810918 18th Jan 2020 11:30pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16876

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Thanks, chaps, sadly it was neither of those, perhaps I imagined it or my memory is playing tricks.

The Puma pulleys are somewhat frustrating since although they all use cheap and easily available bearings they are all designed in a way which makes it very difficult to replace just the bearing (for example the smooth pulleys are in two halves rivetted together sandwiching the bearing). At the design stage it would have been so easy to make them serviceable, but of course that's not the modern way.

They are also theoretically sealed for life, but it turns out that it is possible to regrease them quite easily. You can carefully remove the seal from the bearing, clean out the old grease (which probably looks like plasticene) and repack with LM. Doing this every five years would probably extend the life of the bearings enormously.
Post #810942 19th Jan 2020 10:00am
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MMR1988



Member Since: 29 Oct 2016
Location: Chemnitz
Posts: 54

Germany 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Yes I did. I'll write later what exactly is to do.
Post #810949 19th Jan 2020 10:29am
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

late but maybe help fail also good for Timken wheel bearing too



https://www.hendersonbearings.co.uk/catalo...amp;q=6303

fan bearing SKF 30BD40DF2 double row deep groove 2RS.30/55/23mm have this in my note book for ford 2.4 fan bearing need to check yes thats the one

and 6303 2RS for two outer ones


Last edited by dorsetsmith on 19th Jan 2020 9:14pm. Edited 4 times in total
Post #810956 19th Jan 2020 11:26am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16876

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
MMR1988 wrote:
Yes I did. I'll write later what exactly is to do.


Thank you, looking forward to reading it. Thumbs Up
Post #810963 19th Jan 2020 12:15pm
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MMR1988



Member Since: 29 Oct 2016
Location: Chemnitz
Posts: 54

Germany 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Ok, here is a short description of what to do.
First of all remove the fan and the belt and the tensioner. Then remove the front plate (3 bolts at the front, and two on the sides (one per side).

Use something to remove the pulley from the plate. (You can take two strong metal bands with threads on their ends, put them behind the pulley add 4 screws in the threads and screw these against the plate. Second way: Cut threads in at least two opposing holes from the pulley, take a metal band (with holes in distance of the pulley ones) and two wooden block at the end of the metal band. Screw two bolt through the metal band and in the pulley. Lift the pulley!

Now take the plate and push out the pin with the thread. The back metal casing should be fall out this way.

Now slightly correct the fixing points of the bearing by using a hammer and a drift pin.

When this is done, you can press the bearing out of the plate.

Reassembly: Press the pin through the new bearing. Then put the bearing in the deep freezer for a couple of hours.
Gently heat the plate around the hole for the bearing and take press the cold bearing in the warm plate. (You can use the old bearing for this.)

Create the former "removed" fixing points around the bearing.

Fix the plate including the new bearing and pin that you can press the pulley on it without pushing the bearing out again.

Add the back metal casing.

That's it.

The bearing is a double-row ball bearing.
I used a NACHI one. Part number 30BG05S5G-2DS 090604.


Best regards
Max
Post #811058 19th Jan 2020 9:03pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
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United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
Post #811074 19th Jan 2020 10:24pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16876

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Thank you gents, both very useful.

Will give it a shot and report back. It's obscene to have to scrap such a large and expensive part to replace a simple bearing, what a sign of these consumerist times.
Post #811089 19th Jan 2020 11:19pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16876

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I am now able to confirm that it is not only possible but actually very easy to replace the fan hub bearing on a Puma (2.4, at any rate).

To remove the old bearing I simply pressed the fan hub spindle straight out of both the pulley and bearing, then pressed the bearing out of the carrier plate (which also cleaned off the retaining dimples).

To reassemble I pressed the bearing into the carrier plate, then pressed the spindle back through the bearing and pulley in a single operation.

This was all done on a simple 10 tonne bench press, which, if you don't have one, can be bought together with the new bearing for less than the cost of the replacement part from LR.

I can also confirm that the bearings in the ribbed pulleys can be pressed out and replaced very easily, but the plain pulley bearings cannot since the two-part pulley is riveted round the bearing.

It is also interesting to note that the tensioner pulley bearing (a Ford part) is vastly lower quality than the other pulley bearings (LR parts).
Post #813909 6th Feb 2020 3:40pm
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