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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Attaching Chequerplate?
I've just bought a secondhand bonnet/wing top chequerplate set. I've ordered some buzzweld aerosols to renovate but my question is which is the best way to attach the chequerplate panels to their respective locations? Fasteners didn't come with the panels.

The mounting holes are approx. 6mm diameter but the profile of the surface is messing with my OCD. Conventional fasteners would not sit flat on such an uneven surface? What solutions have fellow OCD enthusiasts come up with? Is there some type of power tool that can neatly grind down a small circular area for a fastener? Or is there some type of pliable shaped ring washer than will conform to the uneven surface?

Please help Laughing
Post #799743 28th Oct 2019 12:06am
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Grouse



Member Since: 16 Apr 2012
Location: on the hill
Posts: 512

Counter sinking bit and either stainless steel counter sunk bolts or I just used pop rivets
Post #799746 28th Oct 2019 3:42am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Re: Attaching Chequerplate?
rockster57 wrote:
... Is there some type of power tool that can neatly grind down a small circular area for a fastener?...


You need a piloted couterbore for this, something like this:

https://uk.farnell.com/ruko/102411/counterbore-hss-m6/dp/282390

The pilot fits the predrilled 6mm hole, and the counterboring face (in effect an end mill) then cuts a flat surface. Typically these are used to enable fasterners such as socket head capscrews to be recessed with flush heads. If using one on something as thin as CP, you may need to have a thicker substrate to guide the pilot. It is also a little tricky to prevent "chatter" if using a counterbore in a hand-held tool, they are designed for machine tools, but it can be done with care. The best result would be if you could use a drill press (I am assuming that you don't have a milling machine because you probably wouldn't be asking the question if you did).
Post #799757 28th Oct 2019 9:08am
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Thank you for the information guys.

Blackwolf I've gone with your suggestion and ordered a counterbore.

Thumbs Up
Post #799791 28th Oct 2019 2:50pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Practice before using it on your CP!
Post #799826 28th Oct 2019 8:10pm
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BogMonster



Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 389

Falkland Islands 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Genuine chequer plate wing tops come with countersunk allen-head bolts and small nyloc nuts for the inside of the wing. Looks MUCH nicer than rivets if you care about that sort of thing! ---
2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi
Post #799871 29th Oct 2019 9:36am
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 719

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
As you are going to all this trouble, why not but a cheap pillar drill. Only about £50 for the bottom of the range.
My experience of drilling out existing holes by hand has been a disaster in terms of appearance of the hole.
I doubt you will be happy with the result given your comments.
Post #799878 29th Oct 2019 10:38am
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
BogMonster wrote:
Genuine chequer plate wing tops come with countersunk allen-head bolts and small nyloc nuts for the inside of the wing. Looks MUCH nicer than rivets if you care about that sort of thing!


I most certainly do. Rivetting quick, easy and cheap but there is something more satisfying about using quality fasteners. Thumbs Up
Post #799882 29th Oct 2019 11:16am
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Balvaig wrote:
As you are going to all this trouble, why not but a cheap pillar drill. Only about £50 for the bottom of the range.
My experience of drilling out existing holes by hand has been a disaster in terms of appearance of the hole.
I doubt you will be happy with the result given your comments.


I have one BM. And intend to take that advice thank you. All the existing holes are around the perimeter of the CP so will be easily accessible using the pillar drill.
Post #799883 29th Oct 2019 11:18am
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
blackwolf wrote:
Practice before using it on your CP!


I'm too easily tempted to crack on and get the result so this is very sensible advice. Thanks Blackwolf.

And thank you everyone for your input. You guys are great. This is such a friendly helpful community with people only too willing to go to the time and trouble to share their knowledge and expertise! It's good to feel I'm a part of it.

Thumbs Up
Post #799884 29th Oct 2019 11:23am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
rockster57 wrote:
Thank you for the information guys.

Blackwolf I've gone with your suggestion and ordered a counterbore.

Thumbs Up


What fasteners are you using?

I would have thought that the counterbore linked would need a fastener with a very very shallow head to achieve a flush fit in 3mm chequer plate. Interested to know if such exists.
Post #799911 29th Oct 2019 5:52pm
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
With the CP being used and had previous rivets drilled out, some of the mounting holes are enlarged. Because of this I feel there is insufficient substrate for conventional size CSK fasteners. My plan is to use the smallest domed CSK solid cup washer I can get away with along with CSK flat head blackened SS torx screws. Unfortunately these of course will sit proud of the surface but for me that’s an acceptable compromise considering the bargain basement secondhand panels.
Post #799985 29th Oct 2019 9:54pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Sounds good to me.

Interested to see a photo or two when you have got it done.
Post #799996 29th Oct 2019 10:22pm
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