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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Quick question for any audio folks - sub install under cubby
hey guys,

Quick one that's cropped up during fitting the sub. I am fitting a MUD sub locker. Going reasonably well so far.

However - I don't have a standard cubby box, which would have the little wooden frame to allow an air gap between the bottom of the cubby box and the top of the MUD locker. I have a metal 'barebox' one, and I plan to just bolt this straight onto the top of the MUD locker.

Pics.

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Does this matter? I think it's the fact that the MUD lid has a grill cut into it - to let sound out that's causing me to wonder. But what I don't know - never having had a sub woofer in any car I've owned, is if having the sub firing straight at a solid surface would matter.

There will obviously be about an inch / inch and half of space above the sub itself.

Any thoughts?

Ta Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #771904 7th May 2019 2:06pm
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Intercept



Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 587

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
Sound is carried by the movement of air molecules which are pushed & pulled by the speaker. The sub needs to vent to open space in order to allow the sound to escape. If by blocking the grille you'll closing the sub locker you'll be suffocating the sub and hence it won't be able to work properly. Add some wooden battens between the cubby and the sub grille and all should be OK.
Post #771921 7th May 2019 3:24pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Thanks very much for that.

Perfect timing too - just about to fit it all.

If I'm 100% honest, it's not entirely the answer I was hoping for, as I'm already slightly concerned the combined height will now be too high.

So... what do we reckon is the minimum batten height I'd get away with??

Edit - I should also say the MUD sub locker has grille Openings cut into all four sides as well as the top - so there would be air movement anyway. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #771922 7th May 2019 3:29pm
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Intercept



Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 587

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
If the cubby isn't going to suffocate the sub then you'll probably be OK. Are you able to experiment with it before you bolt down the cubby? If it sounds OK directly on the locker then bolt it down. If not then add 6mm battens until the sound improves.
Post #771938 7th May 2019 5:03pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Thanks again.

The first thing that came to hand was a length of 27mm timber, so I just used that. I thought it was near enough the thickness of the battens under the original cubby.

Combined with the height of my cubby box, the whole thing is a bit high.


Click image to enlarge


I'll live with it for a little while and see what I think. I didn't think something as little as 6mm would make a difference or I'd have maybe tried that first. I'll get the car going and dash replaced and then see what works best - or is an acceptable compromise.

Once I get a handle on what a sub is supposed to sound like I'll even try bolting the cubby without any battens and try that too.

I actually took the cushion off the top after this - it was just too high. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #772003 7th May 2019 10:04pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2227

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Oooh I didn't know this sub locker existed. Nice. What is the cubby to elbow height like with it fitted? > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind
Post #772094 8th May 2019 1:06pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

I don't actually know, to be honest. I'll measure it when I get home later. The overall height would obviously depend on the specific cubby box fitted.

I'm also going to post some pics of the install on my 'tinkering' thread - but haven't got round to that yet - maybe I'll do that later too.

I was reasonably impressed with the sub locker I have to say. Sturdy enough, and as it picks up on the standard cubby mountings, if you had a standard cubby it would be an absolute breeze to fit.

I think the only negative comment I'd make would relate to the bolts that fix the top of the locker to the base. They are tiny - M4 x 8mm or something like that. So they are very fiddly and in my case the holes on the lid didn't line up with the captive 'nuts' at all well. They are also for a cross head screwdriver - so if the seats were in place I don't know how you'd fit one in. They are also used for fitting the (optional, I think) front and rear panels, but in this instance they are easier to access, lined up better, and aren't quite so 'load bearing'.

I envisaged lots of frustration and Censored Censored with the ones on the sides, particularly with the seats and seat belt catch in place, so I just decided to go the whole hog and fit M6 rivnuts and use socket head machine screws. You can see them in the pic above - the three silver things along the line of the locker lid.

The locker comes with two per side as standard. Never one to shy away from over-engineering, I stuck in a third one on each side.

The other benefit of this is that, as standard, there would be two tiny M4 bolts on each side - with the cubby box bolted to the top. I figured that any leverage as I leaned against the top of the cubby would be quite substantial, so overall I'm happy to make that modification.

The most time-consuming thing for me was running the wiring, making the connections, and drilling holes for my cubby box wiring blocks to go through. Again, if you had standard cubby and fittings, and the sub connections in place, you'd fit this in minutes. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #772105 8th May 2019 1:57pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2227

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Thanks for the detailed response!

Will be interested to hear what the height is like when you're all back reassembled! > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind
Post #772125 8th May 2019 4:16pm
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