 | Home > Technical > Door window channel "shim" - necessary? |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829  |
A quick question about door fittings - as I'm rebuilding doors stripped for painting.
I see this part - described as a shim, which fits in behind the vertical window glass felt channels: https://www.lrdirect.com/MUC4073-Shim-Chan..._https=yes Is it needed? and how would you know before you'd fully built up the door? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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17th Mar 2019 10:10pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Thanks very much. I managed to get some of it out of the replacement doors, and I've ordered some more anyway. I guess I'll just go ahead and fit it anyway - in the hope that it'll do 'something' in there! Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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18th Mar 2019 2:08pm |
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| 8619simon Member Since: 05 Nov 2016 Location: North Wales Posts: 228  
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Is the shim needed on the later pressed steel doors on the puma and TDCi?
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23rd Mar 2019 7:44pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
I was going to say "probably yes" but I've just checked the parts diagrams on the "LR cat" site for cars post-2007 and they're not shown - but that's all I have to go on. Maybe someone else will chip in with something else. Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Mar 2019 8:37pm |
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| 8619simon Member Since: 05 Nov 2016 Location: North Wales Posts: 228
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Yeah, I saw that which got me wandering. I'm building up two later model doors to go on my 300TDI. Would be good to hear from someone who has built up later model doors.
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23rd Mar 2019 9:11pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Well, that's just exactly what I'll be doing next week (building up newer doors for my 300) I've got the shims anyway and I'll see how I get on with them.
I plan to use it and hope for the best that the channels aren't so tight that they stop the window going down. The shim strips really aren't very thick, so I must admit I can't see how much of a difference they make either way. I'll try and remember to post how I get on, but if I forget just ask on this thread and I should get a notification. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Mar 2019 9:23pm |
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 602  
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I have had apart and rebuilt plenty of Puma doors. There have been factory fitted shim strips on these doors and I have fitted them to new door shells when built. |
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24th Mar 2019 12:53am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Based on that experience - of rebuilding multiple doors - do you have any sense of the difference these make?
Like I said above, I have them to fit, and will almost certainly do that. I just have this concern that it's something else to buzz and rattle inside the doors. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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24th Mar 2019 10:51am |
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| 8619simon Member Since: 05 Nov 2016 Location: North Wales Posts: 228
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Finished building mine up today. Shims fitted and glass nice and snug, no rattles. I decided not to faf around with the screw's into the channel and used Tiger Seal adhesive instead.
Passenger door fits lovely with nice even gaps and a good seal all round. Can I get the driver's door gaps right  can I  ! Still I'll leave that challenge for another day. |
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24th Mar 2019 8:43pm |
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 602
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Like I said previously, I have always assumed that the shim strips were from the pre 2005 fabricated doors where there was more room for error than the later machine built doors. I have always built the new doors up with one shim strip fitted and one or two shim blocks at the bottom of the front track section - these shim blocks are essential to keep the track tight on the glass when the glass is fully wound down. On new doors don’t forget to add sound deadening like the factory fit such as a sheet of silent coat to the inner skin. They sound awful when shut if omitted. Like above I omit the screws holding the top horizontal window track- the screws listed in the part diagrams are too long for the upper part, although fine for the sides so I use sealant to hold the top track in, but in reality the genuine track will hold itself in without. The side tracks are pre drilled for number of screws along length but factory only ever seemed to use 3/4 screws each side. But definatly needs screws on the forward track as you need to screw through the shim blocks. |
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25th Mar 2019 1:39am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Thanks very much. I'll keep all of this to hand when I get round to doing mine later in the week.
Sound deadining is a definite. I have a bulk pack of silentcoat I'm working my way through... Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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25th Mar 2019 9:14am |
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