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petestaunch

Member Since: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Wales
Posts: 65

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green

Attempting to extend LED wiring - HELP!

I have never attempted anything even remotely electrical on a vehicle, but I can solder if need be!

I have bought a bumper with LED's fitted. The switching unit wiring supplied simply isnt long enough to get from the bumper to the battery. I'd say I need another 60cm to route the wiring neatly. Ideally I would like to extend the cables that plug into the LED's Im afraid I dont know what the connectors are called but on the switching unit they are female and the little plugs on the actual LED lights plug into them. Is it possible to buy extension leads with these connectors on. Obviously female one end and male the other?

Failing that I guess I will have to extend the battery connection cables. I don't even know what sort of cable this is ( I told you I dont know electrics well!) What are my options to extend these other than soldering. Also I need to buy a small amount of this type of cable.

All help welcome!

Click image to enlarge

19th Feb 2019 4:57pm

kmac

Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1294

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

For the wiring try http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/sect...ddd4fac00d

These are single core thinwall wiring and the site has the AMP rating for each size (cross section) of cable. If there is a fuse on the device somewhere that should tell you the AMP rating, The wires should be a slightly higher rating than the fuse.

For connecting the wires, you can solder and cover with heatshrink or you can use a heatshrink or crimp connector such as this (heatshrink buttocnnector with solder)

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/prod...-connector

19th Feb 2019 5:56pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19521

As above, or if you want to use plugs that are waterproof I'm not sure what those type they are but you could swap over for Econoseal connectors or Superseal connectors.
These are readily available and plug and play.

As well as the above seller I've also found AES Electrical and ALM Electrical to be really good, and as mentioned Thinwall is good stuff.
ALM is my go to a lot if the time, but I have used VWP a few times with good success.
(Delivery costs are a bit high though for small orders.) Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧

Last edited by custom90 on 19th Feb 2019 6:50pm. Edited 1 time in total

19th Feb 2019 6:08pm

kmac

Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1294

(Delivery costs are a bit high though for small orders.)

Agree with this for Vehicle Wiring Products which is why I have not used them for some time now.

I assumed the plug ends plugged into the DRLs and the ends with the little C clamps marked battery connect to the battery.
It is these ends you will have to extend to reach the battery. ie cut off the C-clamps and use a butt connector of some sort (crimp or solder)

Steve - I will check out those other vendors for electrical stuff. I have also used Polevolt in the past https://www.polevolt.co.uk/

19th Feb 2019 6:16pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19521

Don't forget to fuse the power feed in-line too just next to the power source. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧

19th Feb 2019 6:49pm

petestaunch

Member Since: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Wales
Posts: 65

Thank you both very much for taking the time to help. I really appreciate it.

Pete

20th Feb 2019 11:52am

petestaunch

Member Since: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Wales
Posts: 65

So.....

I've fallen at the first hurdle. There is a fuse and i've taken it out but cannot make out any markings on it. I have however worked out that the unit is a rebadged one of these

https://www.dectane-shop.com/schaltmodule/...-2816.html

OBVIOUSLY it's in German, why wouldn't it be?

Can anyone literally link me to the cable I need to buy because i'm blind in one eye, don't understand German and have never done this before!

20th Feb 2019 12:26pm

rallysteve

Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2196

2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green

well that link says maximum load 2A so most wiring shouldnt be challenged at that sort of current. If you are planning on using crimp terminals I would advise using 1mm2 thinwall cable as it is an easier size to work with and you will get a better crimp with it.

If you are soldering then you can use a 0.5mm2 cable which is probably what the unit you have uses.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale

Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread

20th Feb 2019 1:09pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19521

^^^^ Funny you mention that. I’m much the same, under 1mm2 can be very difficult to handle I find and more prone to pulling out or damage too. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧

20th Feb 2019 1:27pm

rallysteve

Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2196

Even with proper crimpers I often find 0.5mm hard to crimp properly sometimes. I also find it often just snaps in strippers too.

Generally when buying thinwall cable I always go for 1mm2 anyway unless the circuit current requires more as it is available in a larger range of colours from VWP or Polevolt. 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale

Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread

20th Feb 2019 2:16pm

petestaunch

Member Since: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Wales
Posts: 65

Thank you again. I've ordered!

20th Feb 2019 4:35pm

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