 | Home > Technical > 2013 110 Puma - clunk noise from rear |
 
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| Tumbiri Member Since: 01 Nov 2016 Location: Caribbean Posts: 52  
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1) The A-Frame ball joint assy that was fitted is OEM PN RHF500110P1. The clunk has been there since the axle and ball joint replacement in July 2016. It has done just about 20,000 Km since then.
2) Park brake grabbing checked. All good there. 3) Drive flanges checked. There is some movement there. But doesn't appear to be excessive. 4) Checked prop shaft play (neutral, park brake off). There is some play but not sure if this is excessive. There is a noise in the diff when I rotate the shaft back and forth. 5) Checked wheel rotation against prop shaft rotation. There is a lag before the prop shaft engages but again this doesn't seem to be excessive. I have videos for 3), 4) and 5) but I have no option to upload them. Help! There is no clunk when driving and changing gears. Gear changes are smooth and the only time I get a noise from the drive train is when I mess up the gear-speed combination. The clunk happens when the vehicle comes to a stop on a slope as it rocks forward after I set the park brake and release the foot brake. |
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16th Dec 2018 11:33pm |
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| redline Member Since: 28 Jun 2015 Location: Mountains and Lakes Posts: 221 
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Not saying that this is the problem, but your A-frame ball joint part number does not seem to be the LR one, but an OEM part.
On my vehicle I also changed the all bushes on the rear radius and trailing arms, which noticeably reduced clunking when driving over speed-bumps, and during torque reversals (braking or accelerating). Again, most likely not your issue, but something to bear in mind.  |
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17th Dec 2018 8:20am |
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| Tumbiri Member Since: 01 Nov 2016 Location: Caribbean Posts: 52
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Thanks for that. Do you know if there are any dimensional differences between the Genuine and OEM ball joint?
I note that the "pivot bracket ball joint to axle bracket" torque value (130 lb/ft) is quite high. Haven't had a chance to check it yet but was thinking perhaps a low torque would allow sufficient movement to cause the clunk (don't know how much clearance there is between the pin and the mount bracket). And Happy New year to all.......appreciate all the inputs |
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30th Dec 2018 3:06pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971  
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I had a horrible clonking that turned out to be due to loose nuts holding the propshafts in. Replaced the nylocs, tightened them up and it was massively improved.
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30th Dec 2018 10:20pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1727  
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Gearbox adaptor shaft worn splines?
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30th Dec 2018 10:39pm |
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| Tumbiri Member Since: 01 Nov 2016 Location: Caribbean Posts: 52
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Found the source of the problem. I had previously checked for park brake grabbing and all seemed good. Park brake was however still top of my list. I removed the drum and inspected the assembly; nothing obvious. Adjusted the brake shoes. Then while driving I pulled the park brake and there it was, the clunk! And at the same time I felt the kick back in the park brake lever. Something is catching but not sure what. For the moment I'll live with it.
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13th Feb 2019 7:55am |
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| Tumbiri Member Since: 01 Nov 2016 Location: Caribbean Posts: 52
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Well I was wrong thinking it was the parking brake. I've been living with the clunk all these months trying hard to ignore it (urgh!). LandRoverAnorak was correct! I recently replaced the A-Frame ball joint as the dust rubber cap had split. Et voila, no more clunk!
And 'redline' you were also correct. The new ball joint is a RHF500110 - Genuine! Thanks all. Clunkless in Paradise!  ........until the next problem  |
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10th Jun 2020 11:32pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam Posts: 673 
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Since we're on the subject of the rear A-frame ball joint, what's your take on the greaseable ones with the higher angles of play? Saw them on LR Parts and also being offered by Gwyn Lewis.
Is it worth the upgrade or should I just stick to what came from the factory? I've been hearing clunks from the rear and an examination of this ball joint shows that the boot is ripped and it's all crud up there. As for the rear drive members, I'm also got slack back when I ran over a boulder a few months back and I'm also thinking of upgrading to the one piece versions. This being the case, asides from the once piece units, is there anything else I should be ordering with them to ensure a one time fitting for the foreseeable future? Thanks in advance! |
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11th Jun 2020 1:57am |
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| wyvern Member Since: 14 Dec 2009 Location: Cornwall Posts: 2068 
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can anyone post a picture of where the a frame ball joint is for me so as I can check my partners 110 which seems to have a little clunk ...
many thanks  Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126 |
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11th Jun 2020 8:28am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857 
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Follow the link below and scroll about 2/3 of the way down the page, there's a picture of the rear of a chassis (without the body) showing very clearly where it is. It's at the axle end of the "V"-shaped assembly adjacent to the diff.
http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=...92b2d4dd0a |
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11th Jun 2020 9:46am |
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| wyvern Member Since: 14 Dec 2009 Location: Cornwall Posts: 2068
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many thanks Blackwolf !
- i’ll have a scramble under and see what its like compared between the 2 vehicles ! Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126 |
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11th Jun 2020 12:05pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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Sadly it is often difficult to detect movement except when it clunks, and often the only way to check it is to replace it.
If you do replace it, be aware that removing the old ball-joint from the housing can be extremely difficult and it is usually easier to buy a new bj pre-fitted in the knuckle. |
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11th Jun 2020 2:00pm |
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| Pacha Member Since: 23 Feb 2020 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 771 
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^^^^^
Amen, buy the knuckle with one fitted - took me 3 hours to separate mine and press the new one in. 12 ton press would not push the old one out, so I ended up cutting it to pieces and collapsing it with a chisel. Rgds. Chris |
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11th Jun 2020 3:24pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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I'm refurbishing a top A frame to use as a replacement for the rusty one on my '07 DC, and, as above, a 12-tonne press has made no impression whatsoever on the old ball-joint. Next step is a 50-tonne press, simply because I don't like being beaten.
Pointless really since I have already ordered a GL greasable one pre-fitted to a knuckle, I just don't want to be beaten. I hadn't realised until I started shopping for parts that the chassis-end bolts got smaller in 2009. Up to then, the two bolts are 3/4" UNF, after then they are only a puny M16. So be careful when buying the bushes or the chassis brackets to get the right ones. |
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11th Jun 2020 4:29pm |
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