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ScottDab



Member Since: 04 Sep 2017
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 21

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Alpine White
Separating CV joint from half shaft
Has anyone got any advise on removing the CV joint from the half shaft?

Everywhere online says just hold it in a vice and tap it off with a soft face mallet, I have tried this a few times, each time getting a bigger hammer out the tool box but it just won’t come off.

Anyone know why this might be? Or any reason it might not be coming off?

Forgot to say it is a 2008 2.4 110


Last edited by ScottDab on 28th Sep 2018 8:49pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #731770 28th Sep 2018 8:41pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Some of them have a snap ring that will need removing, but on the whole they should pop off with a hammer, a vehicle type might give someone a better chance of helping Thumbs Up


Here’s a vid for the defender:

 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #731773 28th Sep 2018 8:45pm
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ScottDab



Member Since: 04 Sep 2017
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 21

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Alpine White
Thanks,

I have watched that one, he just taps it and it pops off, have edited the main post but it is a 2008 2.4 110
Post #731777 28th Sep 2018 8:50pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Not touched anything that new but can’t see why they would of changed it, what’s the reason for removal? 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #731778 28th Sep 2018 8:52pm
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ScottDab



Member Since: 04 Sep 2017
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 21

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Alpine White
One of them was clicking when I turn on full lock, and both swivel seals were leaking so I am going through the whole front axle and replacing everything so doing both sides. I can’t get either side separated from the half shafts!
Post #731781 28th Sep 2018 8:57pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 905

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
As I take it the old cv needs replacing too. Then whilst holding the shaft in the past I have varied from a light tap from a soft faced hammer to a beating the crap out of it in a rotating 12 - 3 - 6 - 9 pattern until the bell had broken all the ball joints are on the floor and the inner cage was in 3 pieces before the centre section had let go of the shaft. the circlip had partially come out and wedged itself to stop the inner part coming off the splines. Thumbs Up Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #731859 29th Sep 2018 2:53pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1545

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
That guy in those videos does my head in, how many times can one person say “right” “right” “right” “right” “right” Laughing




In answer to getting the CV off, dead blow hammer and give it a good whack man! try and keep it straight.
Post #731865 29th Sep 2018 3:16pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Devon-Rover wrote:
As I take it the old cv needs replacing too. Then whilst holding the shaft in the past I have varied from a light tap from a soft faced hammer to a beating the crap out of it in a rotating 12 - 3 - 6 - 9 pattern until the bell had broken all the ball joints are on the floor and the inner cage was in 3 pieces before the centre section had let go of the shaft. the circlip had partially come out and wedged itself to stop the inner part coming off the splines. Thumbs Up


^^^ as above, if its going t be changed anyway just keep hitting it. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #731910 29th Sep 2018 8:14pm
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ScottDab



Member Since: 04 Sep 2017
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 21

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Alpine White
So...After smashing off the end of the CV Joint, taking the balls out, and splitting it, grinding the around the cir clip to get the cir clip out then holding the half shaft up to the CV joint i had bought i saw that the splines were different....

Turn out for defenders 2007 on you have to buy a half shaft and CV joint as one unit... Paddock spares only showed one kit for a CV replacement and said from Vin LA930456 so i presumed this was right. So i have now ordered the proper replacements from ISLAND 4x4. Hopefully these are correct.
Post #732407 2nd Oct 2018 9:14am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
thats not correct. they are separate items and available as sep items, sounds like you just have wrong CV to go on that shaft. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #732451 2nd Oct 2018 12:48pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 905

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
Having just done a recent Puma CV joint on a local farmers landy then the mystery deepens.

The parts book says it is serviced as one and that is what the story is when you order parts.

Upon receipt of the Allmakes bits the CV joint and the shaft are different. now I didn't have an earlier 300 / TD5 CV and shaft to hand for comparison but it all looks like there is some parts jiggery pokery going on.

The old OE shaft on the splines that go into the CV are not like the replacement one there isn't a shoulder where it sits in or the need for a spacer a la the earlier style.

Picture of removed OE shaft.


Click image to enlarge


^^^^ as you can see the splines taper and near the top is the faint line of how far it sits into the CV. At the end the grove for the Circlip isn't just cut into the splined part it is a separate flange where it sits.

But it isn't just an old parts later axle swap. I did have an older CV at home and when I brought the shaft home it doesn't fit the older (TDJ000010) CV it is slightly larger circumference. It'll be interesting to see the later replacement shaft and if the earlier CV fit.
Why?

The later shaft to go in the later CV that came 'As part of a kit' Does have the shouldered part like the earlier ones.

More investigation needed. as after all the diff is still 24 spline and the Swivel housing inner and outer and the stub axles are the same so why couldn't you retro fit the TD5 / 300 and then in the future only have to replace the CV not buy a serviced as a kit and replace a shaft for no reason.
Rolling Eyes Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #734698 14th Oct 2018 3:41pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
my experience is you can fit 300/td5 Shafts and CVs to Pumas. done over 20 of them i reckon. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #734795 15th Oct 2018 10:03am
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Yannis



Member Since: 02 Feb 2015
Location: Oxfordshire / Milan
Posts: 400

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Corris Grey
Did anyone get to the bottom of the parts needed to replace a Puma CV?
Post #755468 1st Feb 2019 1:48pm
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