 | Home > Technical > Catalytic Converter Removal |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857   
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I didn't have any trouble removing the front pipe from my 2007 2.4 when the flange broke off, but it is a very tight fit. You will need to remove the gearbox cross-member, and I have been told that the engine may need shifting to the n/s to make room, although mine didn't.
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10th Dec 2018 1:11pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6264  
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I didn't have to remove the engine but did need to remove the chassis and bulkhead.
only joking - above, tight but quite doable once the gearbox chassis thingy is removed.  |
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10th Dec 2018 3:17pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2224 
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Nice. Thanks both, just the info I was after
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10th Dec 2018 4:01pm |
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| Badger110 Member Since: 06 Feb 2018 Location: South hams Posts: 1025 
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10th Dec 2018 6:48pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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I forgot to add that if you're replacing it with a two-piece replacement pipe then you don't need to remove the cross-member if you cut the pipe that's coming off.
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10th Dec 2018 6:56pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2224
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The original cat is going back on after some weight saving measures
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11th Dec 2018 5:59am |
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| Willfindlay Member Since: 08 Mar 2021 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 24 
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Is it an easy job to remove the crossmember to get the down pipe off?
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8th Mar 2021 12:14pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3184  
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To remove the cross member it is just 4 bolts on each side. IIRC the nuts are welded on the crossmember, but I might be wrong there. The top bolts are quite ling as they go through the chassis. The lower ones are short as they go through a bracket welded at the bottom side of the chassis.
If crossmember has never been removed, it will fight you back and can be a bit difficult to budge and drop down. I prefer to put a small jack between the chassis rail and spread the chassis rails just enough for the crossmember to slide down. Care when taking this approach so as not to dent the chassis.. so use large wooden blocks to spread the load. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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8th Mar 2021 12:36pm |
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| Willfindlay Member Since: 08 Mar 2021 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 24
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Thanks for that, it looks easier to remove the anti roll bar, and perhaps more accessible by removing that. Do you think that’s an option.
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8th Mar 2021 4:47pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7682 
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it wont come out that way, you will need to take crossmember off.
for quick removal just park it on an industrial estate with poor lighting for a few nights, i am sure cat will be removed then.... prob along with rest of vehicle. Cheers James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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8th Mar 2021 7:19pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2224
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I simply could not get mine out
removed the crossmember, unbolted an engine mount and tried to jack the engine out of the way a little but still couldn't manoeuvre the cat out. The fixing bracket has two fixing holes in it, I had to nip one off with an angle grinder to get it out > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind |
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8th Mar 2021 7:26pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1867 
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Yep it was a sod on mine must have took at least half an hour to get it out with a few grazed knuckles for good measure!
i was on the drive doing it though, it wasn't so bad just a lot of wiggling and head scratching! 
2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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8th Mar 2021 7:54pm |
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