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srod



Member Since: 20 Mar 2015
Location: Argyll
Posts: 190

Rear brakes - parts list
I need to renew the rear brakes on my 110 (2003 TD5), I'm going to replace the lot: pads, discs, calipers, so other than these what else will I need to order. From the Haynes manual I believe I need to get:

hub seals, x2
flange gaskets, x 2
stake nuts, x2

Have I missed anything? Can anyone please tell me where can I find the part numbers for the above (and anything else I have missed) .

Thanks!
Post #741362 19th Nov 2018 10:11pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5408

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I’d change flex brake pipes, and also not use stake nut, I would swap to the twin nut system. You will also need brake fluid, and brake cleaner for the job.
Post #741369 19th Nov 2018 10:29pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1546

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
You might be struggling at that age because that’s when they swapped from Salisbury to Rover axles in the rear of 110s- check your axle and see what it is- Rover will look like the front on the diff pan.
Post #741372 19th Nov 2018 10:33pm
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Notyalc



Member Since: 27 Jul 2018
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 139

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
I would also get new calliper bolts, you may find there are no heads left on the ones you have now.
That’s makes getting them out interesting...
Post #741912 23rd Nov 2018 6:33pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 2194

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
I have just done discs, pads and wheel bearings all round on my 110. I also used new disc to hub bolts.

Its a good idea to clean the drive flange threads and disc mounting threads with a tap too

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread


Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread
Post #741915 23rd Nov 2018 6:48pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
depending on when last done it may be prudent to replace/regrease wheel bearings and replace the rear hub oil seal. i too would swap to the twin nut setup over the stake nut options. loctite needed if you dont have any. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #741934 23rd Nov 2018 8:18pm
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Vogler



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Brussels
Posts: 309

Belgium 2015 Defender 110 Td5 HT Chawton White
It's also possible that you'll find wear on the stub axle and need to replace it along with bearings, oil seal and possibly new distance ring (the one thzt goes between the bearings). So you might want to take any possible delay into account in case you need to order parts. When I did the brakes on our 110 I ended up replacing one stub.
You'll risk spilling some one-shot grease because you need to undo the upper swivel temporarily, you might want to have some grease available. Pull the hub towards you when you do this to limit spillage. Mind that the holes of these bolts are open, so clean well around them to reduce the risk of sand getting into the CV joint.
When you pull the hub there's quite some chance of dirt falling into it from the back, you'll probably need to clean the bearings if you don't replace them.
I don't want to stir up the staked nut vs twin nut discussion, but still... I did change it too, but recently learned that the bearings in the later setup are closer to one another. As a consequence they benefit from the fact that they are a bit tighter. The later system (allegedly) also reduces the chance of vibrations that can disturb the ABS sensors, giving faults.
On the other hand: if you replace the bearings, the new ones will settle/bed in and it is worth checking the wheels for any play in the next few thousand miles. If there is, than it is easier to check and adjust using the old system.

I didn't have a lot experience at the time and must say that the youtube LRTV videos on the subject of brakes, bearings and prefloat/endfloat helped me a lot in gaining confidence to do it myself - I can't give him enough credit for the quality of his videos. You will also need two sizes of 12-pointed sockets or wrenches to undo the calipers and discs.

Joris
Post #741965 24th Nov 2018 2:18am
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SteveK



Member Since: 21 Jan 2015
Location: Bromsgrove
Posts: 330

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 HT Rimini Red
NickMc wrote:
You might be struggling at that age because that’s when they swapped from Salisbury to Rover axles in the rear of 110s- check your axle and see what it is- Rover will look like the front on the diff pan.



Interesting! My 2002 110 has a Rover rear diff!
Post #742454 26th Nov 2018 10:39pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1546

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Yep they swapped end of 01ish some have some don’t.
Post #742458 27th Nov 2018 12:24am
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SteveK



Member Since: 21 Jan 2015
Location: Bromsgrove
Posts: 330

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 HT Rimini Red
That explains it! No end of confusion when the rear diff started leaking on mine!!
Post #742460 27th Nov 2018 12:46am
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