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JOHNT01670



Member Since: 24 Jun 2015
Location: CRAMLINGTON, Northumberland
Posts: 185

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 SW Zermatt Silver
central locking not locking
2006 TD5 3 door

Was out yesterday for an 80 mile run, got back and secured the defender and the central locking didn't engage - it made the right sound but the door locks only moved slightly and failed to engage.
Checked there were no reasons for the locks not to drop gave a squirt with silicone to ensure free moving and took door cards off and squirted linkages.
Ended up manually locking each door and using key on drivers door.

Despite a decent run and what i assumed would be a good charge for the battery could the battery be at fault?

On charge (slow charge) it does not show fully charged after overnight charge. When connected to defender shows 12.6v at the battery and 14.6v when running

About to replace battery but thought I would check in case anyone had any ideas

Cheers

John 2006 TD5
2002 Honda Transalp 650
1995 Yamaha Vmax 1200
2014 Nissan Juke (wifes)
Post #736016 21st Oct 2018 10:58am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Hi John. What a PITA...! Your alternator and battery sound good to me, or at least those voltages do. If you are leaving the 90 stood for days at a time it might be worth thinking about some sort of trickle charger. Probably not solar at this time of year... Rolling Eyes

There is a phenomenon whereby the actuators can get "lazy" in older vehicles and through sporadic use, but i do not know how common that is; think it falls under the heading "not sure what it is but it must be that, so better replace it sir"...

My experience is that when this happened on my TD5 it turned out to be a case of too much sticky grease. Old white grease causing too much friction for the actuators to overcome. The solution was to pull the door cards off and de-grease the whole lock/latch assembly with brake cleaner (obviously be careful of getting too much on paintwork), exterior door button depressed and working the latch mechanism a lot with a screwdriver; periodically applying more brake cleaner to flush out.

The prime suspect is the latch and the shaft/trunnion that it rotates around. After maybe 3-5 minutes you will feel the striker free up. Wipe down the excess brake cleaner and let the remaining evaporate before re-lubricating with fresh light oil (not WD40).

NB: if you have waxoyl'd inside your doors then you will need to re-apply as the brake cleaner will remove some of it.

Door strikers 1- The small plastic sleeve around the striker can become pinched or badly worn preventing the latch from rotating around it. If this is the case it is time to replace. Easily DIYable. You could upgrade to the X-Eng trouser friendly strikers at the same time.

Door strikers 2 - These have a habit of shifting over time, especially if you or family members are keen of "firmly" shutting the doors; the Ol' fling the door shut as you are walking away manoeuvre. This is just a simple task of re-aligning it with the door latch.

Hinges - If you have a well used TD5 you may be suffering from deteriorating door hinges. Usually it is the bottom hinge pin that goes first. To test; Open door about 3/4s, grab bottom and top off door and lift. If the hinge is worn you will feel and hear the two parts of the hinge moving apart. This is where I am at now. last Winter half of my door hinges gave up the ghost in the cold weather. In the process of re-spraying the replacements now.

Hope that helps.
Post #736128 22nd Oct 2018 8:42am
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JOHNT01670



Member Since: 24 Jun 2015
Location: CRAMLINGTON, Northumberland
Posts: 185

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 SW Zermatt Silver
Hi Geobloke,

Many thanks for the response - really appreciated.

Doors are closing fine (x-eng strikers in place and all new hinges less than a 100 miles ago). I will get inside the doors again and clean the actuators as suggested and look into a mains fed battery maintaining setup - it has a solar one presently.

They did unlock (once) on Saturday morning before I set off but the battery had been on charge all night and since then back to manual closing.

I love these challenges.... Big Cry 2006 TD5
2002 Honda Transalp 650
1995 Yamaha Vmax 1200
2014 Nissan Juke (wifes)
Post #736144 22nd Oct 2018 9:44am
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Clive



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 467

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 X-Tech LE Zambezi Silver
As Geobloke says, battery standing and charging voltages sound good. If the battery is good enough to start the engine then it will have no problem operating the locks.

Having said that, if none of the lock actuators are operating then perhaps there could be a fault with the supply or ground connection to the alarm module where they're driven from?
Post #736150 22nd Oct 2018 10:40am
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landroverdiver



Member Since: 13 Jun 2009
Location: Renfrewshire
Posts: 193

Scotland 
I have the same problem with passenger side door, I have cleaned the grease off with brake cleaner and it has helped, however the real test is in winter.

Only one remark, from previous research apparently graphite powder is possibly the best lubricant. I have purchased some, but as yet not got round to trying it
Post #736210 22nd Oct 2018 6:14pm
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JOHNT01670



Member Since: 24 Jun 2015
Location: CRAMLINGTON, Northumberland
Posts: 185

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 SW Zermatt Silver
Thanks for the feedback folks - always appreciated.

I have ordered a battery maintenance box that has 5 step charging including recovery & maintenance cycles which I will try to see if the battery sorts itself first.

Will clean the grease off next as suggested and check earths. 2006 TD5
2002 Honda Transalp 650
1995 Yamaha Vmax 1200
2014 Nissan Juke (wifes)
Post #736245 22nd Oct 2018 7:48pm
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