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mark13



Member Since: 16 Apr 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 56

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 2.5 TD HT Cairns Blue
Cable run next to front doors
Does anybody know where the channel which the front door wiring grommet connect to is feed to or from. It’s the one where the door switch runs through plus electric windows and central locking (via the grommet). I have looked underneath and could not see any entrance to the void, also taken the cover off with the air vent controls and nothing plus could not see anything under the bonnet.
Post #714233 24th Jun 2018 8:17pm
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Justtellme



Member Since: 23 Nov 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 310

Canada 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
Look under the bonnet...against the firewall as far outboard as possible on both sides and in the most inaccessible part of the firewall possible and you will find a 19/25mm grommet.
You may need to do it by feel, reaching past multiple spiders webs.......
Patrick
Post #714235 24th Jun 2018 8:21pm
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mark13



Member Since: 16 Apr 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 56

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 2.5 TD HT Cairns Blue
Thank you for the reply, I did look in that area but must of missed it, I will try your braille technique.
Post #714237 24th Jun 2018 8:25pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554


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Post #714238 24th Jun 2018 8:27pm
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2010Blackdefender90



Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Re: Cable run next to front doors
mark13 wrote:
Does anybody know where the channel which the front door wiring grommet connect to is feed to or from. It’s the one where the door switch runs through plus electric windows and central locking (via the grommet). I have looked underneath and could not see any entrance to the void, also taken the cover off with the air vent controls and nothing plus could not see anything under the bonnet.


I spent an hour trying to feed a fishing rod / cable down there, if you have central locking and electric windows, the convoluted tube won’t take another wire, trust me I tried. The grommet on the passenger side is easy to get at, but, it’s way back in the corner but the angle is not right. This loom was made to go in with the wing off, as you can see....

I’m trying wire up my heated mirrors and door puddle lamps.

I think the only option is to pull the looms and connectors out with the grommet and then feed everything back down them, with a large dia convoluted cable.

In the end, I took the wires out along the hinge and under the dash... not idea. Unless someone has another idea, besides the obvious, taking the wing off.
Post #714368 25th Jun 2018 6:51pm
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2010Blackdefender90



Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Re: Cable run next to front doors
mark13 wrote:
Does anybody know where the channel which the front door wiring grommet connect to is feed to or from. It’s the one where the door switch runs through plus electric windows and central locking (via the grommet). I have looked underneath and could not see any entrance to the void, also taken the cover off with the air vent controls and nothing plus could not see anything under the bonnet.


I spent an hour trying to feed a fishing rod / cable down there, if you have central locking and electric windows, the convoluted tube won’t take another wire, trust me I tried. The grommet on the passenger side is easy to get at, but, it’s way back in the corner but the angle is not right. This loom was made to go in with the wing off, as you can see....

I’m trying wire up my heated mirrors and door puddle lamps.

I think the only option is to pull the looms and connectors out with the grommet and then feed everything back down them, with a large dia convoluted cable.

In the end, I took the wires out along the hinge and under the dash... not idea. Unless someone has another idea, besides the obvious, taking the wing off.
Post #714371 25th Jun 2018 6:58pm
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mark13



Member Since: 16 Apr 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 56

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 2.5 TD HT Cairns Blue
What an Arse!!!!!

I was wiring electric windows and central locking, finally did the drivers side which was 7 x 0.5mm cables and was very fiddly.

The passengers side is twice as bad as the the drivers side as the heater box is right in the way. I have not finished that side yet as I got called into work. Again WHAT AN ARSE to do.

The technic that worked for me is to pop off the grommet in the engine bay and cabin. Drop the window then feed a draw wire (1mm) up the cable run, then dislocate your neck and look at the hole in the engine back, use a spring hock set and as soon as you seen the draw wire and hock it out. Then pull the wires through using the draw wire, then feed the wires through the grommets, then swear a lot trying to replace the grommets but it does work. Just got the passengers side to do now, I think I might have to take out the heater box!
Post #714399 25th Jun 2018 9:33pm
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2010Blackdefender90



Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
That would work if you don’t already have cables in that gap, I do, I need to run 4 more up that channel and for the life of me can’t figure out how, as I’d end up pulling the existing wiring out.

I had though that cutting a small 10mm hole in the side of the bulkhead / footwell might work and pull the cables through that and hide them inside the footwell carpet, grommet and seal it... the cables can lay flat until they go up behind the dash...

Big Cry
Post #714409 25th Jun 2018 10:30pm
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mark13



Member Since: 16 Apr 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 56

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 2.5 TD HT Cairns Blue
Just done passengers side, in the end needed 2 specialist tools namely an endoscope (cheapy one I use at work) and the most useful bit of my tool kit, my wife’s small hands, all done! Thank god!
Post #714483 26th Jun 2018 12:06pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20788

United Kingdom 
If you have very very small wires say 0.5mm then you can make a very small hole in the door rubber joint to bulkhead area and exit it at the bottom and straight under the mat.
This was what I did, but will only work with wires as small as this and only really for one small supply and nothing more.

You make this exit basically at the exact location the door rubber meets the body but the interior side.
You'd never notice or see it but as I said only will work with 0.5mm wires as the size is suitable.

I'm likely to need to fit larger wires myself soon too, so the puller method etc will likely have to be my procedure too.
It really depends on what size wires you run really.
Thumbs Up WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸
⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #714493 26th Jun 2018 1:21pm
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2010Blackdefender90



Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
So you did drill / cut a hole in the inner bulkhead panel?

That is what I'm thinking of doing, smaller enough to pull through 4 wires, grommet it, then run them either under the carpet, or up into the lower dash panel. running the wires flat against the bulkhead, you'd never see them under the material on the inner kick panel once it's glued back down.
Post #714505 26th Jun 2018 1:44pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2238

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
If you already have wiring in the pillar it is quite simple. Connect either cord or another bit of wire onto the connector for the E/W or Door Switch with tape. Draw the wiring out the a pillar from under the bonnet pulling through it your spare bit of cord/wire. Modify/add wires as required and use the cord/wire to draw them back through.

I changed my entire bulkhead loom and just fed a length of solid twin core and earth down the a-pillar. Taped the wiring loom to it and drew it down to the door grommet hole. Takes a little fishing to get the draw wire out of the a-pillar but a pair of needle nose pliers and/or little finger it is not too hard.

I have got central locking, interior light, electric windows and heated mirror cables running down my pillars.

Only particularly hard bit for me was reseating the grommet in the top of the a-pillar as i have quite big hands.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
Post #714507 26th Jun 2018 1:53pm
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2010Blackdefender90



Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Aha, now that makes sense, now you write it that way Smile

Pop grommets both ends, attach new cables and something to bottom of cable(s), pull up with new cables attached, pull cables out of top of bulkhead, pull EW and CL wires back down... Simples Thumbs Up
Post #714508 26th Jun 2018 1:57pm
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mark13



Member Since: 16 Apr 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 56

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 2.5 TD HT Cairns Blue
I must admit putting the grommet back in was what I got my wife to do, it was bloody nightmare, thank god!
Post #714557 26th Jun 2018 7:47pm
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2010Blackdefender90



Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Thumbs Up
Post #714578 26th Jun 2018 8:58pm
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