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2010Blackdefender90

Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black

Your roof lights and work lights... how are they wired up?

Looking at adding some Lazer T2 work lights to the rear and Laser ST8's to the front of my Cargobear rack. I think running the wiring through attached to the rack is the way to go.

Few questions,

1. Have you wired your roof lights up to the high beam / flash and or a separate switch?

2. The work lights, have you drilled the roof and run wires through the back and along the roof line, or run wiring around the rack.

Looking for options, and of course pictures would be great.

Thanks all

Mark

2nd Apr 2018 3:28pm

leeds

Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

Have you got a RAI? If so you can run the cables down side of it and into the engine bay.

Otherwise through the door seal and down the A pillar. Some people will argue this is a bit of a bodge.

Another alternative is through the roof using a sealed grommet or socket.

The ST8 are approved for road use and must go off with the main beam.

Can have a switch in line so that main beam can be main beam only or main beam plus ST8.

HTH

Brendan

2nd Apr 2018 6:22pm

MartnH

Member Since: 30 Oct 2017
Location: Nsw
Posts: 28

I make an relay box of 6 relays and fuses and 8nstall it in the engine bay.

Positive from alternative to 80amps breaker then the fuse box. From fuse box along the roll cage/snorkel to the roof.

I used a trailer plug wire for the control (six in one) and fit it via the bulkhead grommet.

2nd Apr 2018 11:45pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20263

If you did have to go through the body which I would recommend if you can at all avoid it.
I would look at Marine cable entry glands.

3rd Apr 2018 9:37am

Huttopia

Member Since: 23 Feb 2016
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 1972

It seems like a lot of trouble to go to for dogging lights

3rd Apr 2018 4:52pm

2010Blackdefender90

Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

Not really necessary.

4th Apr 2018 9:28pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17305

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Ans 1: For the rack-mounted front light bar, I used a modified side/head stalk switch mounted in the unused position on the right of the column which now provides centre - off, back - on with main beam, forward - on regardless of any other lights. The main switching is of course done by relays and the lightbar only illuminates with the engine running. The rear, left and right worklights are run off individual switches and work irrespective of any other lighting and whether or not the engine is running or the ignition is on.

Ans 2: Front lightbar wiring runs alongside the snorkel. Rear, left and right worklights, and front and rear beacons run up the roof rack supports at rear of vehicle (it's a double cab so the back of the rack is supported by supports from the rear crossmember).

All wiring uses appropriate waterproof connectors (if outside) or Econoseal/Superseal types (if within the vehicle structure) and can be disconnected to allow clean removal of the roofrack structure with attached lights and wiring if required.

4th Apr 2018 9:50pm

2010Blackdefender90

Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

Awesome, thanks. I don’t have or plan to get a RAI, so have to go in under the door seal and down the A pillar.

Just bought some Lazer wiring looms to make the job easier, they all come with waterproof connectors.

Cheers

Mark

5th Apr 2018 10:03am

Landlord

Member Since: 27 Oct 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 582

Used one of these on the rear top panel then routed wires along roof rack.

Well made and waterproof

https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/aquasignal-...12v-or-24v 2007 TD5 90 Hard Top

5th Apr 2018 12:34pm

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