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Grenadier

Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5893

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey

Sound Insulation- Dashboard

Morning all.

Looking to tackle the sound Insulation on my DC in the next week or so. As mentioned on another thread, I've already tackled a SW but I want to make my DC as comprehensive a fit as possible. With this in mind I'm thinking about the Dash and whether to tackle behind it? FYI it's a MY2011 2.4. I've taken a look at photos on line, (OT, seem to be loads of Puma dashes for sale, suspicious?), which has led to a number of questions:

1. how hard is the dash to remove
2. I've noticed in the photos that there's already a patch of felt Insulation in place, similar material to that used on the transmission tunnel. Given I think I'm right in saying the transmission tunnel Insulation was either only available with the comfort pack and/or on the 2.2, does anyone who has a 2.4 know if the felt is in place on theirs?
3. How accessible is the bulkhead once the Dash is removed, with regards to applying some sound deadener and Insulation?

Obviously quite a bit of sound comes from this area, so if it's not too fiddly or technical (labourious I'm ok with) and a useful amount of insulation can be added, then I'd be inclined to make the effort.

Thanks in advance

Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

27th Sep 2017 8:35am

ian series 1

Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey

The Dash is a straightforward job to take out,
you will need to remove the steering wheel, ignition cowling, dash clocks,
All straight forward, most of it is just Torx fixings,
Front facia just pulls out after removing the screws, don't be scared of switch plug wiring, they only plug into their designated switch, so you can't cock it up refitting.

Behind the dash is a nest of heater ducts specific to the Puma,
These are all held in place with the plastic screw in fixings, which hardly ever screw out any sense!
You will need to remove these to gain access to the bulkhead itself.

Everything else is a bit tight, and cramped! But you should be able to get a few sheets of sound deadening stuck down?
Take a few good photos at every step so you can see which way everything went,
I made the mistake of removing all my heater ducts into one big pile, and then spending ages working out which side was which etc...

regarding the felt/foam I have very little in mine, 2008 2.4.

I did have some pictures I took when I did my wipers,
I will have a look for you when I get home

80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.

27th Sep 2017 10:22am

ian series 1

Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

Had a few on my phone!

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.

27th Sep 2017 10:35am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11327

Given the mass of the dashboard itself, I'm not sure how much you'd gain by insulating behind it. Doing the footwells up underneath the dash and the gearbox tunnel will give you a lot more benefit for the effort involved. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

27th Sep 2017 10:45am

ian series 1

Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

Your probably right, not much to gain!

Footwells and tunnel would be my priority too. 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.

27th Sep 2017 11:11am

Grenadier

Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5893

Thank you both. If there's little reason, I wouldn't bother, I know I'll only make a pigs ear getting it put back together. Will be putting lashings of the stuff in the footwells, transmission etc.

However, on a similar note I am replacing my tweeters and speakers, and ideally cabling too, would that require the dash to come off or at least be pulled forward as in Ian's photos? Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

27th Sep 2017 2:34pm

gilarion

Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5129

2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green

Or you could buy a lead lined self-adhesive blanket from Noisekiller for the engine bulkhead best soundproofing option you can get.

You do not need to remove much just cut it into strips and cut out the profiles. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1

27th Sep 2017 2:51pm

Grenadier

Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5893

Thanks Gilarion, will look it up as I didn't know there was such a thing.

Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

27th Sep 2017 4:01pm

ian series 1

Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

Think Exmoor trim do the lead lined bulkhead blankets,

Or they did once upon a time?.... 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.

27th Sep 2017 5:34pm

DSC-off

Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1485

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

I can't see any reason to take the dash out to replace speakers, tweeters or wiring.
Removing the radio should give enough access at the top end for wiring. At the lower side of the dash there is access through the fusebox covers and speaker holes, once the speakers are out.[/quote]

27th Sep 2017 7:43pm

ian series 1

Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

Tweeters just pop out too, no fixings as such.

Plenty of room to feed wires in and out of various holes etc

80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.

27th Sep 2017 8:52pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20910

I thought about doing behind the dash too but quickly realised as suggested it wasn't worthwhile.
I would recommend (which I have done myself too.) -

Doing the gearbox tunnel, full floor pans and seatboxes. And seat box interior bases.

There is a tangible gain to be achieved.

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____\We|Will|Win/___
____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
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27th Sep 2017 9:42pm

Grenadier

Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5893

Thank you all. Advice duly noted, will let you know how it goes. Am planning to do a (not entirely scientific) test for pre/post dB levels, just using an App.

Was lucky enough to discover last night, by pure chance given recent postings, that a mate here in Cham (who used to be a DJ/sound engineer and who is obsessed by music), also loves Defs. He's going to spend a weekend with me fitting the Focals and maximising their effectiveness. Given the DC has no rear speakers (or ports), we'll be making a speaker box to fit under the bench seat which will accommodate the 10", Sub and Amp. Result!! Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

28th Sep 2017 8:55am

Chris86

Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 798

Soundproofing

For your footwells and Tunnel- the Wright-Offroad kit is the way to go- IMHO this is the stuff that they should have left the factory with.

Chris

28th Sep 2017 4:17pm

Profyaffle

Member Since: 03 Oct 2016
Location: N Yorks
Posts: 527

^^^^^ what Chris said.. I have it in mine and saved the silent coat for inside the doors and places you can't see... 1993 200Tdi Defender 90

28th Sep 2017 4:23pm

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