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v40mav



Member Since: 25 Aug 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 206

Scotland 
installing additional electrical kit
I have a plan to install quite a bit of additional kit and have been reading lots of posts regarding the wiring and installing - These are all good to a point but I'm a bit lost on where is best to install certain bits . mainly the wiring for the relays and and the relays themselves-

Kit to be installed

2 spot lamps on front
LED's warning beacons grill mounted & 2 rear mounted - all switched from dash
4 - 2x2 on roof rack
1 rear work lamp
2 poss 3 12v aux sockets in rear switched from front- for use with a removal beacon's

a small distribution board- for VHF / MSA radios - ( rigrunner - powerpole board )

Also plan to put in power for the Engel - this has a 12v socket but the plan would be to put on anderson powerpoles - find there is less chance of these working loose.

So - I need a clear plan of what goes where and how best to tackle this -

Will start with twin Optima batteries - with split charging- taking the main power from the aux battery to a fuse box under drivers seat.


I'd welcome guidance from any experts on here on best way to tackle this -
Where to mount the relays - make a really tidy job - up to 7 relays Exclamation

Anyone got pics of their install that will help with this

I had thought about using the spare switches- as I have space in the dash panel but it might be easier to use small round hella / durite ones with led warning light showing on. Defender 110 County SW

Disco 3 HSE

Freelander 2 HSE - SOLD going back to a car


www.lothian4x4response.org
Post #64914 24th Mar 2011 6:41am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

United Kingdom 
Starting at your start.

Would strongly recommend twin Odysseys over twin Optimas. Reason being reliability/lonevidty of the batteries.

Fuse box can be mounted under drivers seat. Get one with a common negative bus bar. Take all auxiliary negatives back to battery rather then use fuse.

On our Puma there were spare relay mounting positions on a bar under drivers seat.

Fridge, have a good look at the ARB one. Ok on first glance more expensive then Engel, but has more features. Buy Engel add ons to make them more comparable. Then Engel is more. Plug either use anti vibration din plug/socket or Anderson SB50.

If you are going to Driffied you are more then welcome to lok at our set ups

HTH


Brendan
Post #64915 24th Mar 2011 6:55am
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The Boy



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: East Northants
Posts: 1459

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red
Post #64917 24th Mar 2011 7:03am
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v40mav



Member Since: 25 Aug 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 206

Scotland 
Hi Brendan - Yip - will be using 2 Optima's as I already have these - in the garage - Very Happy and fridge wise - also have the engel MR040f - so not looking at new stuff - just better way to install this - - I think the 50amp anderson is the preferred option as this leaves the aux sockets free for any other kit

Not sure about driffield yet -

Fuse box - will be using the one i bought from you at the weekend Thumbs Up Defender 110 County SW

Disco 3 HSE

Freelander 2 HSE - SOLD going back to a car


www.lothian4x4response.org
Post #64918 24th Mar 2011 7:19am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

United Kingdom 
How long have Optimas been stored/likely to be stored for?

If for a reasonable time might be worthwhile doing a rejuvenating charge and then keep batteries on a trickle charge.

Good luck.



Brendan
Post #64919 24th Mar 2011 7:28am
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v40mav



Member Since: 25 Aug 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 206

Scotland 
The Boy wrote:
This may or may not give you some ideas.

http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=378055.0

http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=383967.0

Boy


That's great - good write ups - That is the same fuse box - so that's a good start -

I like the way that the rack can be removed - and lights unplugged - - quick question - looking at the following pic - what is the wiring here for > and why did you choose to route this way - ? Was this the best option - or other reason - - I like the idea - I've removed the rear seats to give the dogs space so there will be spare "bolt" holes that can be used to get cable out

Cheers guys -

Hugh



Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  Defender 110 County SW

Disco 3 HSE

Freelander 2 HSE - SOLD going back to a car


www.lothian4x4response.org
Post #64920 24th Mar 2011 7:36am
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v40mav



Member Since: 25 Aug 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 206

Scotland 
leeds wrote:
How long have Optimas been stored/likely to be stored for?

If for a reasonable time might be worthwhile doing a rejuvenating charge and then keep batteries on a trickle charge.

Good luck.



Brendan


one has been removed from the D3 which i sold to buy the 110 - so only been in garage for 3 weeks - but I will do full charge - The other one is still in the other d3 so will be removed when ready to install

Both are yellow tops - but from what I have been advised there should be no issue using one as a main battery - ( given what I have spend and plan to spend - I'd rather not beed to fork out £200 quid on a new battery yet ) I can see this happening iin the future but not yet

Both these were used as Aux on split charge systems - Defender 110 County SW

Disco 3 HSE

Freelander 2 HSE - SOLD going back to a car


www.lothian4x4response.org
Post #64922 24th Mar 2011 7:42am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

United Kingdom 
Yellow tops are a combined starter/leisure battery so should be OK as starter battery. Red top is just a starter battery

Have run twin Yellow Tops before I changed to twin Odyssey 1700's in our red 110. Have twin Odyssey 1500's in black 110


Brendan
Post #64923 24th Mar 2011 7:53am
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The Boy



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: East Northants
Posts: 1459

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red
v40mav wrote:
The Boy wrote:
This may or may not give you some ideas.

http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=378055.0

http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=383967.0

Boy


That's great - good write ups - That is the same fuse box - so that's a good start -

I like the way that the rack can be removed - and lights unplugged - - quick question - looking at the following pic - what is the wiring here for > and why did you choose to route this way - ? Was this the best option - or other reason - - I like the idea - I've removed the rear seats to give the dogs space so there will be spare "bolt" holes that can be used to get cable out

Cheers guys -

Hugh



Hugh

The route I took was what I thought was the easiest. Exit battery box, under the middle row floor up into the car at the point you can see, then behind the trim to the exit point. I plugged the electrics so I could remove the roof rack if I ever needed. I have had some issues with fuel consumption recently so I got one of the chaps at work to remove it with the forklift and put it into the warehouse until I sort things which saves about 2mpg. Took about ten minutes to remove and quite painless, and I believe worth it. I also have two external Hella DIN sockets mounted on the rack at each side and a rear flood/work light which so wiring was also done for those too. The wiring has been completed for nearly two years now and as yet I have not had any issues.
I also have two DIN sockets in the front passenger side and one in the very rear. Another DIN in the rear running through a switch on the dash that runs the minus 40 60ltr fridge.




Click image to enlarge


Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #64925 24th Mar 2011 8:10am
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