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oilman
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Member Since: 19 Mar 2009
Location: Cornwall
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Coolant & Antifreeze Explained
Coolant and antifreeze is a topic we are asked about on a regular basis, and often causes confusion; types, colours, service life etc.

Perhaps the most frequent cause of confusion is what the difference between anti-freeze or coolant is. Basically, they’re the same product (although the term “coolant” could just be applied to plain water; see below!)

To help clear some of the confusion up on the more technical details of antifreeze and coolants we enlisted the help of Martyn Mann – Technical Director, Millers Oils UK - who has provided the information below.

Not all antifreeze / coolant is the same!

Coolant can be plain water; water is a very effective coolant but would not protect against sub freezing temperatures or protect against corrosion inside the engine. The use of antifreeze protects against both problems.

Antifreeze not only suppresses the freezing point of your engine coolant, but provides good corrosion protection and increases the boiling point during use.

Most commercial antifreeze formulations include a glycol (to suppress the freezing point and raise the boiling point), corrosion inhibiting compounds and a coloured dye (commonly orange, green, red, or blue fluorescent) to aid in identification. A 1:1 dilution with water is usually used, resulting in a freezing point in the range of minus 37 °C to minus 42 °C, depending on the formulation.

There are two basic types of coolant available today dependent on the corrosion inhibitors used:

·inorganic additive technology (IAT)
·organic additive technology (OAT)

Inorganic Additive Technology

This is the traditional coolant based on inorganic additives and is called inorganic additive technology (IAT). It is a tried and proven chemistry that provides a fast acting protective film. The additives deplete and the coolant needs to be drained and replenished every couple of years. This type can be used on all mixed metal engines with components including steel, cast iron, copper, brass, aluminium and solder without any detrimental effect.

Organic Acid Technology

The newer OAT coolants work differently than the older silicate based IAT coolants. Aluminium and ferrous metals form a surface-layer of corrosion in the presence of moisture, even with the little bit of moisture in the air. OAT coolants prevent this metal-oxide layer that protects the surface against this corrosion. Inherent with their design, the OAT coolants last longer than the older traditional IAT coolants. This category of antifreeze cannot be used in systems containing yellow metals.

A couple of questions and answers.

Why are coolants different colours?

Coolants/antifreezes are coloured so you can visually see them; colour intensity can be an indication of over dilution. The different colours are non specific to the different types of antifreeze. The manufacturer can dye the product any colour they want. The colour is no guide to the actual type of antifreeze type and the label should be read before use.

What is best for performance use?

It is always best to use the engine manufacturer’s advice. If engine contains yellow metals [copper and brass as in older vehicles] then the long life products based on organic technology should not be used. As a general rule, most modern engines require the long life organic antifreezes.

Is there any advantage to using concentrate over pre-mixed coolants?

None other than the user may want to use the pre-mixed product due to ease of handling or cost and visa versa.

Can concentrate and pre-mixed coolants be mixed?

A simple answer is that you can, however do not mix IAT and OAT antifreeze together.

So, there we go. Hopefully this information has been useful, if you have any further questions not covered here please ask and I will try to get the answer.

With thanks to Martyn Mann and Millers Oils.

Cheers

Guy and the Opie Oils team. Use the code DEF2 and get 10% Club Discount
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Post #61805 2nd Mar 2011 1:37pm
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double cab happy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2009
Location: merseyside
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England 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
thanks for this, infomation is power and i'm sure it will stop somone from getting riped off by a stealership,

i know where i'm going when i do my own service Thumbs Up
Post #61984 3rd Mar 2011 12:35pm
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oilman
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Brilliant, glad you like the info Use the code DEF2 and get 10% Club Discount
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Post #61989 3rd Mar 2011 12:52pm
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party monkey



Member Since: 31 Dec 2010
Location: Oxon.
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England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Cairns Blue
Thanks for this.... and also for the prompt delivery of the two-stroke Thumbs Up Jon - 110 td5 [sold]. Currently Defenderless.
Post #61990 3rd Mar 2011 12:54pm
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oilman
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Member Since: 19 Mar 2009
Location: Cornwall
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Good to know the order went well.

Cheers

Tim Use the code DEF2 and get 10% Club Discount
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Post #61998 3rd Mar 2011 1:26pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
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South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Tim, seeing you are the oil man here (no pun intended), what's ur stance on using 2-stroke oil in diesel? --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
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Post #62007 3rd Mar 2011 3:10pm
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oilman
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Member Since: 19 Mar 2009
Location: Cornwall
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A good idea, a small drop is a good upper cylinder lubricant.

Cheers

Tim Use the code DEF2 and get 10% Club Discount
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Post #62010 3rd Mar 2011 3:29pm
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bm52



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
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United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
oilman wrote:
A good idea, a small drop is a good upper cylinder lubricant.

Cheers

Tim


Tim:
1. can you define 'a small drop' ratio for a tank of diesel
2. would you put it in your 12 month old Puma engined Defender?
3. which 2 stroke oil would you recommend for the Puma?

Thanks BM52
Post #62012 3rd Mar 2011 3:45pm
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oilman
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Member Since: 19 Mar 2009
Location: Cornwall
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Hi

I'd say a small cup full of a decent two stroke per tank is roughly the needed amount.

If I had a nice new Defender, I probably would use a drop of two-stroke, just to make sure the engine is kept in as good condition as possible.

Cheers

Tim Use the code DEF2 and get 10% Club Discount
View Opie Oils Current Offers Here > >
oilman's website: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ - register for news and offers
email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
phone: 01209 202944
Post #62024 3rd Mar 2011 4:27pm
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bm52



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
oilman wrote:
Hi

I'd say a small cup full of a decent two stroke per tank is roughly the needed amount.

If I had a nice new Defender, I probably would use a drop of two-stroke, just to make sure the engine is kept in as good condition as possible.

Cheers

Tim


looks like you are about to get an order from me then!
from memory, should i order a pure mineral 2 stroke oil or a semi-synth? I can't remmeber all the initials [FB? FC? - no idea Confused ]

thanks and regards BM52
Post #62031 3rd Mar 2011 5:02pm
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willy eckerslike



Member Since: 15 Jun 2009
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United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Keswick Green
Oilman................What... is the air-speed velocity of an unladen swallow? Original Member Pie n Pea Club.
110 HCPU Tipper
Post #62034 3rd Mar 2011 5:22pm
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party monkey



Member Since: 31 Dec 2010
Location: Oxon.
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England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Cairns Blue
willy eckerslike wrote:
Oilman................What... is the air-speed velocity of an unladen swallow?


Rolling with laughter

FFS Willy - give him some more parameters..... Relative humidity / Air temperature / male or female swallow etc ..... How can the man give you an answer when he's only got half the info Mr. Green Jon - 110 td5 [sold]. Currently Defenderless.
Post #62040 3rd Mar 2011 5:39pm
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oilman
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Member Since: 19 Mar 2009
Location: Cornwall
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Some people have too much time on their hands

http://www.style.org/unladenswallow/ Use the code DEF2 and get 10% Club Discount
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Post #62043 3rd Mar 2011 5:53pm
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oilman
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Member Since: 19 Mar 2009
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 511

bm52 wrote:
oilman wrote:
Hi

I'd say a small cup full of a decent two stroke per tank is roughly the needed amount.

If I had a nice new Defender, I probably would use a drop of two-stroke, just to make sure the engine is kept in as good condition as possible.

Cheers

Tim


looks like you are about to get an order from me then!
from memory, should i order a pure mineral 2 stroke oil or a semi-synth? I can't remmeber all the initials [FB? FC? - no idea Confused ]

thanks and regards


I'd probably go for the Silkolene Super 2 or Comp2, depending on how much you want to spend.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-507-silkolene-2-stroke-oils.aspx

Cheers

Tim Use the code DEF2 and get 10% Club Discount
View Opie Oils Current Offers Here > >
oilman's website: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ - register for news and offers
email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
phone: 01209 202944
Post #62046 3rd Mar 2011 5:59pm
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bm52



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
Tim, thanks, I've registered on your site and will buy the oil when i get home,

cheers BM52
Post #62098 3rd Mar 2011 9:20pm
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