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RoddyK05



Member Since: 08 Apr 2015
Location: Inverclyde
Posts: 633

Scotland 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Yellow
Wiper replacement 2004 model
Wiper motor etc replacement - Td5 2004

With a clunking sound emanating from the wipers on my side as they changed direction half way through the sweep, I hoped it was just a hard wiper blade rubber that was making the noise. Unfortunately after a dry spell I wash/wiped the window and the extra drag of the wipers on the nearly dry screen showed up that the wheelbox on the drivers side was well past its best as the cable jumped in the wheelbox causing the wiper arm to stop in some crazy positions and also causing it to sweep off the side of the window.
I searched on here and found a lot of valuable information but most was for early Td5 or Tdi. My setup does not have the top hat type adapters on the wheelbox spindles - mines are splined and the wiper arms bolt directly on.
I phoned Dan at Duckworth and soon I was in possession of the required bits. The bits he sent me for my 2004 model were:-
2 off DKU500010 HOUSING - WIPER ( wheelbox )
1 off LR082012 MOTOR - WIPER ( wiper motor / gearbox / cable complete assembly )
This meant that the only bits I'd be reusing were the bits of 'pipe' that the cable runs inside - hardly likely to get worn out.
Using what I found as a guide, I tackled the job and took note of everything I done. It is time consuming, but really is VERY straightforward. No specialist tools are required, most of it was done with a Phillips or pozi-drive screwdriver. A lot of the screws are in tight positions, so a decent quality 1/4" drive ratchet set with interchangeable bits would be handy to get into the tight spaces. A mixture of #2 Phillips and pozi-drive screws and #3 pozi-drive are used. TOP TIP - use the correct bit for the screws as using the wrong one in the wrong screw will cause it to skip once you start nipping them up. Apart from that, a couple of open ended spanners are required, but nothing outside of what the average 'home mechanic' would own.
As I removed bits, I either replaced the screws into the holes they came out of or taped them to the bits they belonged to using masking tape - rather this than have a big box of screws and trying to decide what goes where on re-assembly. Using this technique I had no screws left over, and every fastener was where it should be.
So, onto the procedure - my pictures aren't great, but hopefully will be handy for you.
1) I started by removing the centre dash / switch panel. This is just two screws, but you have a lot of wiring connectors to take out. You can label these, or take photos, but due to the shape of the wiring harness then all the plugs should be easily lined up once it comes to puting it together again, so no worries here.


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2) Remove passenger grab handle and the speaker housing below it.



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3) Remove instrument (clocks) panel.



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4) Remove vent/temperature control panel.



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5) Remove dash top vent covers.



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6) Remove dash top screws then the panel itself.



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7) Remove screws for plastic dash panel.



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Cool Remove vent knobs.



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9) Remove moulded plastic dash panel.



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10) Remove blower speed control panel - I had to do this to get to the left hand screw of the demister funnel.



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11) Remove O/S demister funnel.



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12) Remove 2 dash panel brace pieces.



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13) Remove couple of big screws holding dash metal to bulkhead - gives more wriggle room to get wheel box out.



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14) Remove the wiper arms from the wheelbox spindles.



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15) Slacken the nut holding the 'pipe' onto the end of the wiper motor gearbox. Unplug the electrical wiring and remove the two screws holding the motor to the bulkhead. You should now be able to pull the motor and cable out of the passenger door - the wheelboxes will turn as you withdraw the cable. This will be manky with old grease so take care not to get it on your seats/clothes etc. You don't need to salvage this, so it can be binned complete if you wish.



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16) The wheelboxes can now be removed. Slacken off the 8mm nylock nuts on the rear and remove the 'pipes' that hold the wiper motor cable. The wheelboxes are secured from outside by a 19mm (?) nut. The nut and shaped plastic spacer that you remove here can also be binned, but keep hold of the very thin rubber washers that goes between the bulkhead and the shaped plastic spacer as these are not supplied with the new parts. Not sure if these are available separately, but worth asking if you are doing the job yourself. You need to do a bit of jiggery pokery to get the wheelboxes out as the spindles are long, but I managed it, so you should too.


17) With the 'pipes' out from behind the dashboard I gave them a pull through with a piece of knotted paracord to remove the old gunky grease that they contained. Unfortunately I lost the wee pipe at the end and had to order a new one from Dan. Two days with the car off the road waiting on the wee pipe to arrive, I found the lost piece in a box of 6mm bolts - how, why, who?!?!?!



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18.) I gave the new drive cable and the wheelboxes a good going over with new grease before fitting them, so hopefully they should last a while.



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19) Refitting is very much the reversal of removal. When installing the motor, there is a sticker with "Align Here" on your new motor, this lines up with the U bracket that holds the motor onto the bulkhead.
I tested it at this point to ensure everything was working as it should - nice and smooth with no clicking noises coming from the wheelboxes or anywhere else.



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Looking at the old wheelboxes, the wear on them is very obvious, and yes, you could turn the spindles 180 and reuse them, but having gone to the lengths of stripping the whole dash out, I wouldn't bother taking the chance. Likewise the motor assembly - you have to strip a lot out to get to that stage so I wasn't taking chances with the old one and just fitted a new one.



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While it was apart, I took the opportunity to do a couple of wee jobs. I greased the vent flap mechanisms as these had always been a bit sticky and ran some wiring from behind the centre dashboard area into the engine bay for future projects.

I hope this write up is helpful to you if you are daunted by the though of tackling this job, it's not difficult, just takes a while.
Post #528202 1st May 2016 12:10am
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Fatboy Slim



Member Since: 04 Feb 2008
Location: Bridgend
Posts: 999

Wales 
Thumbs Up Thumbs Up top write up Thumbs Up it's a fiddly job isn't it Laughing Topside switch failed pre-injection
Post #528252 1st May 2016 9:16am
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RoddyK05



Member Since: 08 Apr 2015
Location: Inverclyde
Posts: 633

Scotland 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Yellow
Fatboy Slim,
Yes, fiddly but not hard. Glad I tackled it, saved a fortune on garage prices for what is a straightforward job - job satisfaction too knowing that it's all done correctly and I have no squeaks or rattles now that I didn't have before and I'm a bit more intimate with the car now so I know what's going on behind those plastic panels. Thumbs Up
Post #528311 1st May 2016 2:08pm
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Fatboy Slim



Member Since: 04 Feb 2008
Location: Bridgend
Posts: 999

Wales 
I seem to go through phases with them. I don't do one for months and months then do three in a week Laughing .Defo best to change the lot. I know the wheelboxes are a lot of extra work but well worth doing Thumbs Up Topside switch failed pre-injection
Post #528323 1st May 2016 4:25pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1034

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Excellent helpful write up Thumbs Up

Thanks for taking the time to take the photos which will ultimately help many of us and save us pennies! Bow down

I suppose it does make sense to make a list of a number of other jobs 'to do' whilst the dashboard is off. I'll start now.......

Cheers

Will
Post #528446 2nd May 2016 9:05am
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bogwert



Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: Dundee
Posts: 194

Scotland 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Zambezi Silver
Excellent write up and exactly what I needed, modding the single jet into two! Thumbs Up Chris

2014 Discovery 4 TDV6 HSE
2003 Defender 90 TD5 CSW
Post #579855 23rd Nov 2016 2:29pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Did the new wheel boxes con with rubber boot if over front ? if not all ready in the excellent write-up parking silicon grease in to the rubber boot will help to keep rain out from wheel boxes
Post #579860 23rd Nov 2016 3:52pm
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Herdwick



Member Since: 03 Dec 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 27

Thanks,
A very helpful guide, something I have been avoiding for a while, now I must get on with the job
Post #579871 23rd Nov 2016 5:26pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 772

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
Great write up, well done. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)
Post #579920 23rd Nov 2016 8:42pm
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RoddyK05



Member Since: 08 Apr 2015
Location: Inverclyde
Posts: 633

Scotland 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Yellow
Dorsetsmith,
Yes, the rubber boots came on the new wheelboxes. I did indeed pack some grease inside them to help keep the elephants at bay. Unfortunately I will be using my own guide again soon as one of the wheelboxes has started making a noise already - I have a replacement ready to fit. Crying or Very sad
Post #579953 23rd Nov 2016 10:07pm
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ppad



Member Since: 16 Nov 2012
Location: now, UK S Coast
Posts: 208

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
RoddyK05 eek! I was just about to order a complete set - my wipers have that tendency to just stop half way up. Your replacement is noisy already? I want many years ... who has genuine LR parts for this? Sold the much modified 110 2.8, in Oz
Brought the 90 home from Switzerland ...
Post #580013 24th Nov 2016 1:39am
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RoddyK05



Member Since: 08 Apr 2015
Location: Inverclyde
Posts: 633

Scotland 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Yellow
ppad,
That WAS genuine parts! Maybe I was just unlucky and got a rogue one, hope so.
Post #580024 24th Nov 2016 7:47am
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Laurie



Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
I had three screws left over after doing mine a couple of years ago. Never did find out where they came from. Works fine. Very Happy 
Post #580092 24th Nov 2016 1:14pm
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srod



Member Since: 20 Mar 2015
Location: Argyll
Posts: 186

Quote:
I had three screws left over after doing mine a couple of years ago. Never did find out where they came from. Works fine. Very Happy


I had a few! I did wonder when doing mine why the hell they couldn't have at least standardised on one size... would make the whole job a lot less of a faff!
Post #580144 24th Nov 2016 6:12pm
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Paddie42



Member Since: 24 Apr 2014
Location: Hamphire
Posts: 230

England 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
I know this is an old (ish) thread, but my windscreen wipers stopped working on the way home.

I have taken apart the dash and removed the wiper motor, but the spring (?) that connects the wiper motor to the cable that operates the wipers has broken.

All the information I have found says to remove this cable with the motor, but as the two are separate I have left it in place.

Please could someone let me know who this cable attaches to the pushrod in the motor as it appears just to be a push fit?

Thank you in advance

Richard
Post #690028 1st Mar 2018 7:04pm
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