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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Truck body maintenance - details not to forget
Is it ok to put ACF50 on the foam seal between top of the bulkhead and the bottom of the windshield frame?
As well as on the foam seal between lower and upper part of a the body including the rear of the truck?
I have no leaking seals at all, but thinking of doing this in preparation of coming winter....
Thanks for any recommendations about this, Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw


Last edited by ericvv on 2nd Apr 2018 11:04am. Edited 2 times in total
Post #568159 2nd Oct 2016 8:36am
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Leviathan



Member Since: 24 Oct 2015
Location: Staffs
Posts: 248

United Kingdom 
I did mine nearly a year ago, and again recently with no issues.

To be on the safe side though, I would wait until this is confirmed by a few others...or not. Wink
Post #568166 2nd Oct 2016 9:10am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5026

United Kingdom 
YES Thumbs Up

On the TDCi the foam gasket strip sometimes has a gap on the inside near the false hinge brackets. It is a good idea to thumb some window sealant in their FIRST if you have a gap then paint/spray and wipe the ACF-50 on the foam gasket to prevent water ingress. Same applies to the rear tub gasket which sometimes has a gap where it is cut!
Post #568171 2nd Oct 2016 9:36am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Thanks for confirmation Zag.

I know that later Pumas have a windshield to bulkhead foam strip which is not one long string anymore, but they have at both ends two separate end pieces now, starting somewhere at the false hinges. My 2009 model has a single long strip, from door to door. So no gaps.
Makes you wonder why Solihull with later Pumas made this production change, surely not one which is for the better. Rolling Eyes

I must admit that I did go ahead already this morning Cool , took a fine paint brush from my daughter, and have been applying ACF to the entire window to bulkhead foam strip, to the front wiper spindles (and let them work for while), to the door hinges (doing that about every month or so), to the entire foam strips which run at the sides and the rear of the truck (at the rear you need a long haired really fine paint brush), to the safari door hinges, to the visible part of the bumper bolts, and to the top and both sides of the two metal plates which connect the engine hood to the bulkhead (a bit more liberally here).
By using such paint brushes you can work very precisely, no need to wipe overspray too much.

How often would you recommend to repeat this application to those foam strips?

Best, Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #568173 2nd Oct 2016 9:49am
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jfh



Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 365

South Africa 2007 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Chawton White
We have had issues with ACF50 on aircraft interior sound insulation.
The foam crumbled away when touched.
But I must add that the foam was about 20 years old and we applied it only in the last 5 years.
Post #568184 2nd Oct 2016 11:24am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5026

United Kingdom 
Hi Eric, a couple of times a year should do it, as with under the cappings, hinges etc Thumbs Up

As ACF50 is oil based it can compromise Dinitrol UnderbodyWax as that is epoxy based. Kinda makes it soluble and doesn,t allow the Dinitrol it to go off... best to keep ACF-50 on the top sides apart from outside of rear crossmember.
Post #568197 2nd Oct 2016 12:06pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Yesterday with the same fine pointy paint brush also put ACF-50 into the center hole of all painted and unpainted pop rivets on both sides and on the rear of the truck. Also again on the door hinges. Today will also reapply a second time on the already mentioned foam strips all around the truck.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #572753 23rd Oct 2016 6:35am
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2272

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Zagato wrote:
Hi Eric, a couple of times a year should do it, as with under the cappings, hinges etc Thumbs Up

As ACF50 is oil based it can compromise Dinitrol UnderbodyWax as that is epoxy based. Kinda makes it soluble and doesn,t allow the Dinitrol it to go off... best to keep ACF-50 on the top sides apart from outside of rear crossmember.



invaluable info Zagato - thank you very much Thumbs Up

I've been doing my bit with the ACF50 as we approach winter, and actually wondered if it would affect the Dinitrol.

I have to say, I find applying the ACF50 quite therapeutic - especially the rivet heads!

Must get out more Laughing
Post #572766 23rd Oct 2016 8:23am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20910

United Kingdom 
Zagato wrote:

As ACF50 is oil based it can compromise Dinitrol UnderbodyWax as that is epoxy based. Kinda makes it soluble and doesn,t allow the Dinitrol it to go off... best to keep ACF-50 on the top sides apart from outside of rear crossmember.

Very true, WD40 has the same effect on Dinitrol - which is useful fir removing bolts and nuts but otherwise should be kept away.
I've found it's also important to wipe off all excess, especially on paint as the ACF will go tacky and attract dirt.
It goes like dried on honey but it is very good stuff, particularly for visible areas. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___

____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_
Post #572797 23rd Oct 2016 11:16am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
The SVX is thoroughly Dinitrolled, all the way upto top of the A/B posts, all doors, panels often upto higher than the underside of the window panels. But I applied the ACF-50 only on the outside of the foam strips, and with a fine paint brush you even rarely hit the paintwork. Anything on the paintwork got easily wiped off with kitchen roll.
It is correct that WD40 is a Dinitrol remover by excellence. I had some years old Dinitrol overspray somewhere behind the ends of the front bumper, a bit of WD40 and wiped clean without effort.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #572800 23rd Oct 2016 11:44am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20910

United Kingdom 
Thumbs Up
Only trouble is you don't always see slight excess ACF application until a later date.
None the less, you can get it off without much trouble. Thumbs Up _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___

____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_
Post #572809 23rd Oct 2016 1:26pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2272

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Agree with Eric regarding the fine tipped artists brush Thumbs Up

Spent many a 'happy' hour spraying and brushing the ACF50 into those joints, cracks, seams and seals.

Prompted by today's contributions to the thread, I did an hour or so myself - it's really quite satisfying and quite interesting just where you can spray and brush Rolling with laughter

I got plenty up and under the rear tub cappings and around the seams adjacent to the rear light clusters.

My favourite is working it around the bonnet hinges and flaps Thumbs Up

Note to self - get a life! Rolling with laughter
Post #572847 23rd Oct 2016 5:27pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
This was for 15 minutes part of my life today. Cool
Actually quite satisfying indeed to get a clean job done without making a mess of everything. Laughing Thumbs Up
Eric

Click image to enlarge
 You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #572852 23rd Oct 2016 5:41pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20910

United Kingdom 
I've always used the aerosol.
How do you come off if you want to spay anyway? Or do use the bottle and aerosol too? _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___

____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_
Post #572857 23rd Oct 2016 5:59pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2272

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I use the aerosol to apply and then the small brush to work it in.
I find the pressure useful when working around the cappings.
The 'pipe' on the spray nozzle is also just the right size to fit in the rivet heads! Thumbs Up
Sad, I know, but as Eric says it is strangely satisfying, very easy and not messy at all.
Post #572863 23rd Oct 2016 6:27pm
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