 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Snake oil? Oil flushing concentrates ... |
 
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324  
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2.4L Puma TDCi. 60,000mi
Oil gets dark quite fast after swap, should I use a flushing oil concentrate or similar and a short period oil cycle to clear out some gunk, or could that introduce new issues? In my case I'm trying to reduce smelly white smoke on start up. The products in question: http://neptuneproducts.co.nz/desludge-engi...ncentrate/ http://neptuneproducts.co.nz/ftc-catalytic-engine-decarboniser/ From what I've read they are analogous to detergent in your dishes (oil being the water), I figure a good combo of half new oil and some flushing concentrate, run it a whiles, drain then top up with new oil yeah. Maybe cycle again if what came out was crazy cruddy? People on more general automotive forums have said such products can: - Loosen crud that then goes off and finds a new home in worse places - Loosen crud that was actually working for your engine (around piston rings for instance, in a kind of 'wrong makes a right' kind of way) Good ol' internet 
What is the defender2.net wisdom on this topic? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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11th Sep 2016 1:31am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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As far as I'm aware the flushing additive is very similar to the additives already in the oil that is being put in there. It's just a temporary higher concentration of it. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
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11th Sep 2016 2:11am |
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| lambert.the.farmer Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: harrogate Posts: 2006  
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If it were necessary to use such a thing then it would surely be mentioned in the service schedule. Lots of time and money is spent on developing reliable engines by manufacturers and so long as you stick to the service intervals and use the correct specification items then you should be fine. If however you have reason to believe that the engine has been neglected or otherwise abused that is different. I would however again say that the cap says oil so that is what goes in.
Technology is changing all.the time and I admit I don't fully understand some of the alleged clever abilities some of these products claim but I have been fairly well served by the mantra of 'if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.' Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon. |
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11th Sep 2016 6:48am |
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| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 
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If you're that worried just change your oil more often than usual.
I wouldn't be putting anything else in the engine. |
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11th Sep 2016 6:55am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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I certainly hear what you're saying but in my opinion the service schedule is as generic as the original factory tune. In terms of lubricants, it's a bare minimum in some regions/driving styles/driving tasks and an obvious money grab (assuming dealer service) for others.
I guess another way to go about the discussion is to ask: aside from time and $$ in the product and process, what if anything, have I got to lose? People report and extra 6l of gunk coming out of the engine and their receiving buckets overflowing as a result. 
Maybe my logic is wrong but that infers to me that the engine didn't get the full amount of fresh oil required in it's last service ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Another point worth bringing up is that this isn't an ON/OFF switch, I could always split the difference and use a more dilute mix than they suggest ... Hoping to hear from people who have used it, with good or bad results. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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11th Sep 2016 7:17am |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5103  
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The arguments against go round forever...the biggest thing is that the seals etc are protected by the oil and when you suddenly wash out the inside of the engine you loose the built in protection and start to attack the seals etc.
Then there can be more sludge around too I know taxi drivers tend to use cheaper oil and massively increase the service intervals I have always used the premium oils and filters and maintained the annual interval (dont do the mileage). On our fiat motorhome, the service is 24k miles or 2 years! It had a low mileage service early - but there are a lot of cars which now have intervals at higher miles and multiple years...as a defender is a ford engine, i wouldnt worry too much. Mike |
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11th Sep 2016 10:52am |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4806 
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You could buy the cheapest correct spec oil you can get. Opie have GFORCE 5W-30 which is claimed to be up to the latest ◦Ford M2C 913-D specs for £17 95 for 5 litres. You could do an oil/filter change every three months with this and see what it is like on the fourth change. Or you could use the GFORCE 5W-30 instead of the engine flush and run it for a day or two then use whatever oil you'd normally use. . Whatever gives you peace of mind. At least you'd be putting engine oil in. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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11th Sep 2016 3:50pm |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652 
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don't flush it unless it's been abused or its been filled with water etc.
I change more regular than recommended and it's clean for quite a while and never gets that horrible diesel gritty feeling. I do 6 months regardless of my miles or 5k whichever comes 1st. My intervals are 8k but I've never gone over 5k on oil since I've owned it. 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car) 2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
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11th Sep 2016 9:32pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Third owner.
I'm tossing up between assuming that the owner that left the fish and chips wedged behind the mid seat door cards abused it or not... 
I'm thinking tactic will be: - Throw in a small amount of snake oil (let's say at most half concentrate) with the old. - Drive a wee while - Drain - Fill up with cheap but within spec oil (or just the standard 'premium' I'd use anyway) - Drive a wee while - Drain - Fill up with good quality/spec oil and change filter Live happily ever after. ...oh and: - Report back results Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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11th Sep 2016 10:25pm |
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| Thon Member Since: 22 Nov 2015 Location: Salisbury Plain Posts: 696
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As one of the previous posters mentioned, oil in a diesel goes black very quickly but is not a problem. It's the same in every diesel I've worked on.
You mention that you are trying to get rid of the white smoke on startup but isn't this more likely to be caused by a faulty glow plug (amongst many other possibilities) that are nothing to do with "gunk" in the engine oil? Just a thought... |
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11th Sep 2016 11:24pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Yeah, you're on to it, certainly looking at glow plugs once I get time.
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49151.html It's just that one of the snake oil merchants mentioned oil gunk as being a possible cause also, hence the tangential discussion. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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11th Sep 2016 11:27pm |
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