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mobilesawmiller



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Co,Tyrone
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 
2007 2.4 tdci not revving.
Hello All.

Recently bought my second 2.4 tdci Defender - a 2007 pickup with 61000 miles on the clock. Occasionally, first thing in the morning, when I go to accelerate nothing happens. After 2-3 seconds it revs as normal. Until it warms up it can be a bit jerky on the accelerator. A local independent garage hooked it up to their diagnostics and EGR came up. Replaced that but the problem is still there. Any ideas? Once it warms up it goes fine.

Thanks.

Mobilesawmiller.
Post #500726 5th Feb 2016 8:30am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20882

United Kingdom 
Sounds like EGR getting stuck open, once warm it frees up.

When was the fuel filter last changed also?
Post #500739 5th Feb 2016 9:31am
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mobilesawmiller



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Co,Tyrone
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 
Went to BLRC and they removed some gunk from the sender unit in the fuel tank. Time will tell if this was the problem but so far so good.

Click image to enlarge
Post #501779 7th Feb 2016 6:38pm
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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 373

Lovely truck, I really like it.

First of all i would clean MAF and MAP-Sensor. If you have/had EGR-Problems especially the MAP-Sensor might be dirty. Be careful when cleaning.

Does the truck start normally (quickly)? There might be also an CHT-Sensor issue. At cold starts and low CHT-Temperatures, the ECM raises the amount of fuel because of the fuel-"loss" due to cold cylinder temperatures where an amount of fuel condensates. CHT als is responsible for the time the glow plugs are on. It might be worth checking these things.
Post #502132 8th Feb 2016 2:54pm
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mobilesawmiller



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Co,Tyrone
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 
Hornet,

Thank you for your kind words re my Defender - much appreciated. I went out this morning and took her for a drive and the problem did not appear. The guys at my local independent (BLRC) - top lads by the way - said that problems with the puma could be difficult to identify even with the computer plugged in. The gunk they removed I think is a reaction between the diesel and the plastic fuel tank - they said it never used to happen with metal tanks. It always did start ok so fingers crossed the problem is licked.

Thanks again.

Mobilesawmiller.
Post #502141 8th Feb 2016 3:13pm
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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 373

We call it "Dieselpest". Check with google if your gunk looks similar. Often happens to vehicles with extremely low milage. I do not think it has anything to do with the material of the tank. Might be worth thinking about a appropriate biocide to prevent anytrhing in future...
Post #503087 10th Feb 2016 2:30pm
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mobilesawmiller



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Co,Tyrone
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 
Thanks Hornet.
Post #503358 11th Feb 2016 7:52am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17822

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It is the result of the biological components in modern diesel, and is a microbial growth. In order to reproduce the microbes need oxygen which comes from the condensate which is inevitably present in fuels. The longer the fuel has stood around (whether in a storage tank at a filling station or in a can in your workshop) the more likely you are to have problems.

Some while back I had major issues as a result of this problems (see this thread).

Also from another thread:

I wrote:
I had severe microbial problems last year (there's a thread somewhere here about it).

The sludge grows in the tank, and once you have it you can only get rid of it by dropping the tank and manually cleaning it, flushing the fuel lines, and changing the filter. If you are infected it is likely that you'll need to fit a new Volume Control Valve to the fuel pump as well, since they are very easily damaged by moisture 9and the sludge indicates moisture). A faulty VCV will cause awful running and dirvability issues but may well not produce fault codes.

The cause of the sludge is a microbe which can breed under ideal conditions at a rate which means a single microbe could produce enough to completely fill your tank in 24 hours! Fortunately conditions in your tank aren't ideal, but unfortunately they're not bad either. The microbes feed on the oxygen in moisture in the tank or in the fuel, and form the black sludge. There are biocide additives you can put in the tank which kill them and break them down to a size where the microbe cadavers will pass through the syste, and be burned, but these are better at prevention than cure.

The best way to avoid the problem is to avoid cheap fuels or badly stored fuels, but decent diesel from outlets which shift a lot of fuel (fuel distributors tend to add fungicide anyway). Avoid fuel from cans like the plague if you can, especially if it has been stored for more than a couple of weeks (consider adding biocide if you have to use that old jerrycan of diesel).

Also, on a 2008 Defender check where the outlet of the tank breather is. The early Pumas had a brilliant masterstroke of design and routed the breather into the R/N/S wheel area, either just in front of or just behind the mud shield that protects the R/N/S lights. In other words it gets all the road muck thown onto it, and if behind the shield it lives in a world of wet filth! it is almost guaranteed that you'll get a microbial infection with this arrangement, and I wouldn't mind betting that your breather ipie is full of sludge in this case, certainly mine was.

If you reroute the breather (mine is now in the rear body by the light units), clean the tank, and are sensible with you fuel choice you will probably have no further trouble. Oh, the less time the fuel is in the tank, the better too, and the less air space in the tank the better.


It is also worth noting that in the vast majority of cases any significant fuel contamination issues (whether water, dirt, or the diesel bug) will result in VCV damage and the need to replace the VCV.
Post #503405 11th Feb 2016 11:31am
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mobilesawmiller



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Co,Tyrone
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 
Thanks again lads. My next issue was an oil leak from the near side of the engine. It appeared to be coming from higher up. First suspect was the vacuum pump so my local mechanic fitted a new gasket - did not cure the leak. I took the Defender down to BLRC on Saturday morning. The lads suspected a cracked vacuum pump but it turned out to be OK. Next on the list was to replace the gasket on the water pump. They also found one of the injectors to be slightly loose - apparently air can be sucked in and cause a bit of pressure which can result in the odd oil leak. I drove the 40 or so miles home and the leak seems to be 95% cured. I will keep an eye on this to see how things go. Must admit I am a bit disappointed so far - my last tdci was a 2008, bought with 25,000 miles and sold after 2 1/2 years with 80,000 on the clock. Apart from replacing the EGR valve 3 times it ran like a clock. Anybody else out there with a similar oil leak?

Mobilesawmiller.
Post #504613 14th Feb 2016 3:57pm
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