 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rough powder coating costs? |
 
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897   
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Paint the roof bar.
Colour anodise the treadplate. It'll last a lot longer.  |
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10th Dec 2014 11:06pm |
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| Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 808 
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It Is already anodised silver. I know nothing about anodising. Can the colour be changed using this process?
Also, how would I paint over powder coat, primers etc..? Appreciate your advice  2002 110 td5 |
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10th Dec 2014 11:12pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772 
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It depends on how easily the old powder coat comes off as that's what takes the time (unless you remove it yourself) but I reckon less than £50 just to zinc then powder coat from crimble powder coating in slaithwaite.
Edit: sorry misread that they were anodised. Crimble have always been helpfull to me so might be best popping in and asking Ray |
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10th Dec 2014 11:34pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20826 
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I'd recommend painting, using proper methods it'll give a great finish.
The hard part is getting old PC off, paint stripper used heavily should do the trick with some power tools. On bare steel if it's rough I'd use acid etch primer, chances are you'll need to use some filler in a small quantity too yo sand down to give a smooth glossy finish. Then base colour coat and finally a clear lacquer coat for gloss and protection. So long as you use a clean dust free painting area and the prep is good you'll get good results. If you didn't want the effort or work to remove the PC you found get it blasted only. Personally I'm not a fan of PC, at least with paint you can repair it easily and or touch up. |
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10th Dec 2014 11:37pm |
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897
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Afraid I'm very biased about powder coating, Great for indoor use but rubbish for standing up to weather. One small pinhole and the water will get in and it will start bubbling up as the rust progresses underneath. It will wear through on treadplate if you tread on it and it can't be touched up. It doesn't adhere very well to aluminium.
Any plating company can black anodise treadplate for you, asuming they've got a large enough bath. Existing powder coating can only really be removed by burning. You'd then need to sand/grit blast it before recoating. |
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10th Dec 2014 11:45pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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My powder coated side step treads still look like new after a year or so of getting abuse from the kids.
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10th Dec 2014 11:53pm |
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| mick Member Since: 08 Feb 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 2109 
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Just had my tree sliders rear chequer plate & mud flap brackets shot blasted & powder coated £110 at horbury bridge
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10th Dec 2014 11:58pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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5 years powdercoat finish has lasted on my wheels. Depends how meticulous the finishers are.
If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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11th Dec 2014 12:04am |
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| Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 808
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I dropped the roof bar off at the powder coaters today. He said he could powder coat over the top of the stuff already on, which had been zinc primed underneath apparently. The fact I haven't had to faff around with it swayed my decision in the end.
The chequer plate can wait for another day. 2002 110 td5 |
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11th Dec 2014 7:16pm |
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| Mike_B Member Since: 23 Jan 2011 Location: Moray Posts: 550 
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You can have anodised aluminium re-coloured.
Badger anodising in Birmigham are spot on. They've always helped me, with random colours or short notice jobs on tight timelines. Speak to Pete Walsh, the boss. He'll explain what can and cant be done. Colour anodising dyes the metal without adding any dimension to the aluminium. I'd go for that over powder coat. Once the powder coat chips and water gets beneath, it just crumbles and flakes off... As stated, PC is great for items that dont need to stand up to weather and abuse.. |
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17th Jan 2015 6:33pm |
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| Cuthbert Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: Up North Posts: 1535 |
Just to set the record straight -
Powder coating - but only if done well can offer a very long lasting finish. If the item is mild steel, then it is correctly prepared before hot dip zinc galvanising and then it is powder coated - the resultant finish is more than capable of withstanding many years service in a hostile North Sea, salt laden atmosphere. Anodising tends to fall into two camps - the first one is a decorative finish the second one is a hard anodised industrial finish. In all cases the quality of contactor ranges from very thorough through to Mr Bodgit. The powder coater I am involved with was moaning just before Christmas at the cheapo powders a competitor was using to undercut him on price. However if the surface preparation (the bit you cannot see isn't thorough) the top surface you do see will quickly deteriorate. For those of you who have scabby accessories (light guards/roof racks etc) on your Defenders - chances are the coater took a shortcut at the prep stage. I could write 20 pages on the subject based on many years involvement - currently I know of several 40 tonners running across the country each week in an attempt to get a quality coating job done. Some automotive component companies quite simply don't want (or will pay for) a quality job - nor will they pay to have the finished goods packaged in a protective wrapping for delivery to the trade customer. |
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17th Jan 2015 10:22pm |
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| SailingTom Member Since: 19 Nov 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 1729
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As Cuthbert correctly pointed out the key is in the preparation like most things really.
Although you can get really good coatings done your usual £50 a wheel type job on the whole arent as durable as paint. Personally I never have any thing powder coated as cant stand it and if it comes done from the manufacturer get it blasted off and galvanized instead. For the bits you list id go with anodising (available in lots of colours) and paint for the other bits  Defender puma dormobile camper |
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17th Jan 2015 10:35pm |
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| Chris86 Member Since: 15 Jul 2014 Location: South Yorks Posts: 798 
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Hi,
Your not that far from Barnsley and there is a company called Metal Magic that I have used to get a couple of bits powdercoated for my 110. They aren't the usual 'blast it on thick and she'll be alreet'. Recommended by a friend to me, and I am well pleases with the results! When I went there was an awful lot of high end car wheels in the process of being refurbed- so I guess they must be ok! Chris |
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18th Jan 2015 11:43am |
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| MR_JAMES Member Since: 10 Oct 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 260
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As a guide i've had >>>
a 90" bumper, side steps, towbar shot blasted and powdercoated black cost me £75 in november. I had series 1 80" aircleaner/battery tray/ radiator brackets / side rocker cover bits done £50 year before last. 1953 80" 1987 mini city e 2011 90" |
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18th Jan 2015 7:43pm |
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