↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rough powder coating costs?
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
Rough powder coating costs?
i need to re powder coat a roof bar I have modified and am considering having the wingtop chequer plate and the 110 sill and rear quarter chequer plates done at the same time.

Anybody any idea of a rough cost for all that? 2002 110 td5
Post #377962 10th Dec 2014 11:02pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Laurie



Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
Paint the roof bar.
Colour anodise the treadplate.
It'll last a lot longer. 
Post #377970 10th Dec 2014 11:06pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Send e-mail Reply with quote
Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
It Is already anodised silver. I know nothing about anodising. Can the colour be changed using this process?

Also, how would I paint over powder coat, primers etc..?

Appreciate your advice Thumbs Up 2002 110 td5
Post #377974 10th Dec 2014 11:12pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6772

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
It depends on how easily the old powder coat comes off as that's what takes the time (unless you remove it yourself) but I reckon less than £50 just to zinc then powder coat from crimble powder coating in slaithwaite.

Edit: sorry misread that they were anodised. Crimble have always been helpfull to me so might be best popping in and asking

Ray
Post #377985 10th Dec 2014 11:34pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20788

United Kingdom 
I'd recommend painting, using proper methods it'll give a great finish.
The hard part is getting old PC off, paint stripper used heavily should do the trick with some power tools.
On bare steel if it's rough I'd use acid etch primer, chances are you'll need to use some filler in a small quantity too yo sand down to give a smooth glossy finish.
Then base colour coat and finally a clear lacquer coat for gloss and protection.

So long as you use a clean dust free painting area and the prep is good you'll get good results.

If you didn't want the effort or work to remove the PC you found get it blasted only.
Personally I'm not a fan of PC, at least with paint you can repair it easily and or touch up.
Post #377987 10th Dec 2014 11:37pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Laurie



Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
Afraid I'm very biased about powder coating, Great for indoor use but rubbish for standing up to weather. One small pinhole and the water will get in and it will start bubbling up as the rust progresses underneath. It will wear through on treadplate if you tread on it and it can't be touched up. It doesn't adhere very well to aluminium.

Any plating company can black anodise treadplate for you, asuming they've got a large enough bath.

Existing powder coating can only really be removed by burning. You'd then need to sand/grit blast it before recoating. 
Post #377992 10th Dec 2014 11:45pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Send e-mail Reply with quote
mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6772

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
My powder coated side step treads still look like new after a year or so of getting abuse from the kids.
Post #378001 10th Dec 2014 11:53pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red
Just had my tree sliders rear chequer plate & mud flap brackets shot blasted & powder coated £110 at horbury bridge
Post #378002 10th Dec 2014 11:58pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
5 years powdercoat finish has lasted on my wheels. Depends how meticulous the finishers are.

Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #378004 11th Dec 2014 12:04am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
I dropped the roof bar off at the powder coaters today. He said he could powder coat over the top of the stuff already on, which had been zinc primed underneath apparently. The fact I haven't had to faff around with it swayed my decision in the end.

The chequer plate can wait for another day. Thumbs Up 2002 110 td5
Post #378180 11th Dec 2014 7:16pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Mike_B



Member Since: 23 Jan 2011
Location: Moray
Posts: 550

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Java Black
You can have anodised aluminium re-coloured.

Badger anodising in Birmigham are spot on. They've always helped me, with random colours or short notice jobs on tight timelines. Speak to Pete Walsh, the boss. He'll explain what can and cant be done.

Colour anodising dyes the metal without adding any dimension to the aluminium. I'd go for that over powder coat. Once the powder coat chips and water gets beneath, it just crumbles and flakes off...

As stated, PC is great for items that dont need to stand up to weather and abuse..
Post #389466 17th Jan 2015 6:33pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Cuthbert



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Up North
Posts: 1535

Just to set the record straight -

Powder coating - but only if done well can offer a very long lasting finish. If the item is mild steel, then it is correctly prepared before hot dip zinc galvanising and then it is powder coated - the resultant finish is more than capable of withstanding many years service in a hostile North Sea, salt laden atmosphere.

Anodising tends to fall into two camps - the first one is a decorative finish the second one is a hard anodised industrial finish.

In all cases the quality of contactor ranges from very thorough through to Mr Bodgit. The powder coater I am involved with was moaning just before Christmas at the cheapo powders a competitor was using to undercut him on price. However if the surface preparation (the bit you cannot see isn't thorough) the top surface you do see will quickly deteriorate. For those of you who have scabby accessories (light guards/roof racks etc) on your Defenders - chances are the coater took a shortcut at the prep stage.

I could write 20 pages on the subject based on many years involvement - currently I know of several 40 tonners running across the country each week in an attempt to get a quality coating job done. Some automotive component companies quite simply don't want (or will pay for) a quality job - nor will they pay to have the finished goods packaged in a protective wrapping for delivery to the trade customer.
Post #389560 17th Jan 2015 10:22pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
SailingTom



Member Since: 19 Nov 2013
Location: ESSEX
Posts: 1728

United Kingdom 
As Cuthbert correctly pointed out the key is in the preparation like most things really.
Although you can get really good coatings done your usual £50 a wheel type job on the whole arent as durable as paint.
Personally I never have any thing powder coated as cant stand it and if it comes done from the manufacturer get it blasted off and galvanized instead.
For the bits you list id go with anodising (available in lots of colours) and paint for the other bits Smile Defender puma dormobile camper
Post #389569 17th Jan 2015 10:35pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Chris86



Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 798

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 USW Chawton White
Powdercoat
Hi,

Your not that far from Barnsley and there is a company called Metal Magic that I have used to get a couple of bits powdercoated for my 110. They aren't the usual 'blast it on thick and she'll be alreet'. Recommended by a friend to me, and I am well pleases with the results!

When I went there was an awful lot of high end car wheels in the process of being refurbed- so I guess they must be ok!

Chris
Post #389707 18th Jan 2015 11:43am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MR_JAMES



Member Since: 10 Oct 2013
Location: ESSEX
Posts: 252

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
As a guide i've had >>>

a 90" bumper, side steps, towbar shot blasted and powdercoated black cost me £75 in november.

I had series 1 80" aircleaner/battery tray/ radiator brackets / side rocker cover bits done £50 year before last. 1953 80"
1987 mini city e
2011 90"
Post #389941 18th Jan 2015 7:43pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums