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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Koni shocks knocking rear bottom mounts
Hello my lovely Land-Rovery friends! Wonder if someone could offer me some advice. I've recently had a set of Koni Heavy Track shocks fitted to my 90 and ever since have an annoying rattling / clonking from the back end. It's definitely related to the shocks and is apparent over reasonable bumps and especially under moderately heavy cornering. Sounds like it's the top mounts 'shimmying' from side to side. I've taken it back into my local indy (who fitted them) and he noticed he'd fitted one of the 'domed' washers the wrong way round, but that hasn't solved the noise problem. When I look at the top mounts at the back I can see a slight gap on either side of the top 'eye' of the shock. Is that right? Or should they be nipped up tighter than that? I'm wondering if they're just not tight enough, or if there's a washer missing.

Any advice greatly appreciated. Tris.

P.S. Not overly thrilled with the Konis so far - they've taken some of the harshness out but it still rides very hard unladen, so think I may have to look at swapping the springs as well. They're set to their softest setting all round (well, he said he had at least!). 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green


Last edited by Green Machine on 20th Jul 2015 8:53pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #358531 17th Sep 2014 8:31pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5425

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
When I ran Koni's they always clonked on the bottom mount, and eventually eat the bottom bushes. Changed across to superpro buses and solved problem.

Sure I did something else but can't remember.

Andy
Post #358540 17th Sep 2014 8:56pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19621

United Kingdom 
Polybush bushes on mine but with standard shocks.
Ride is very good, went for the red performance ones.
They aren't cheap though.
Post #358542 17th Sep 2014 9:01pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2664

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Yeah, I have Koni's too, and also put softer springs in my USW (written-up on this forum). I'm still pleased with my suspension now after 2 more years...

The large washers on the top of the shock should have the domed side innerwards (i.e. both domed sides facing the shock) allowing the shock to move laterally under articulation and the bushes to crush. The domed washer holds the metal sleeve on the inner of the shock

It's only a couple of bolts on either side, I think if I were you I would take them off, inspect, and rebuild with a bit of grease...

Also make sure the inner domed washer is present, and wasn't removed with the old shocks...



IIRC the upper shock bolt should be 85nm, but suggest check the torque settings and make sure they're tight enough

This youtube video shows the rear shock at around the 6 minute mark, and also just before the end &list=PLC62A3CA8C84C7815 Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #358604 18th Sep 2014 8:23am
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uncas



Member Since: 22 Nov 2012
Location: Wentworth near Rotherham
Posts: 340

United Kingdom 
My procomps rattle like a marble in a dustbin I've got new bushes to fit this weekend.

Uncas
Post #358627 18th Sep 2014 11:08am
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Cheers for the advice guys, and especially to Martin K Thumbs Up . I suspect that the top mounts simply aren't done up tight enough, but will have a check over the weekend. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #358901 19th Sep 2014 12:48pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19621

United Kingdom 
There is little vertical movmentnt in the top mounts in fact hardly any even if a bit loose. (Only horizontal)
Far more likely the lower mounts, are they seated correctly?
If you can spin the lower part of the shock by hand its too loose.
Post #358920 19th Sep 2014 3:08pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Bit of an update on this one, and seeking further advice / ideas! Fully appreciate that I'm at risk of sounding like a broken record, but someone might have had similar experiences.

In order to try to solve the knocking shocks problem, I had new OEM rubber bushes fitted throughout, which made a big difference and a major improvement. We isolated the knocking noise to the bottom shock mounts at the back by replacing the bottom mount bushes with new ones and then going for a road test - knocking noise gone. Anyway, the new bushes are now around 2000 miles old and the knocking has returned! The problem seems to be with the geometry of the Koni shocks and how they sit in the bottom mounts on the axle. It appears that when the axle is evenly loaded (side to side) things are OK. However, when one side is loaded (and hence the other unloaded) i.e. when cornering, the geometry gets thrown out with the result that the uppermost bush retaining washer comes into contact with the cup on the axle mount, which produces the very annoying knocking noise.

So it seems I have a few options:

1: replace the bottom mount bushes every 2000 miles (not ideal)
2: Change back to genuine shocks which I never had any problems with in terms of knocking (and maybe look at changing the springs to soften the ride a little)
3: grind the cups off the axle mounts so the washers can't hit them (don't really want to do that)
4: try to find a replacement bush that is thicker than standard to create more separation between the washer and the cup

Can anybody tell me if there is a difference in the rear suspension mounts between my 2005 Td5 90 and a newer Puma 90? I am confused as to the number of forum members who appear to be running Koni shocks with no issues, and mine have had this knocking issue from day 1. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #439170 20th Jul 2015 9:06pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7705

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
if you wanted to prolong bush life and improve articulation then grinding off the cups is a std procedure for those fitting +5" shocks (normally pin/pin)

i would suggest you bushes are compressing over time (2000 miles in this case) allowing the contact.

Either space out the bushes with more bushes (or even half a bush), replace with new (could try different brand) or cut off the cups.

personally i would cut off the cups. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #439178 20th Jul 2015 9:25pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Cheers for the reply James. Just done a bit of research on MicroCat and it seems that a Puma does have a different setup to earlier models in that it doesn't seem to have the cups on the axle mounts. As a result, there are fewer washers involved in the Puma setup. This may explain why those with Konis on Pumas don't have the problem that I am having. I wonder if someone with a Puma 90 would be kind enough to take a photo of their rear bottom shock mounts to confirm this? Thanks in advance. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #439182 20th Jul 2015 9:32pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7705

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Some of them do have the cups Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #439413 21st Jul 2015 8:35pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 909

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
A lot of aftermarket dampers come with the Caveat that the rear cups are to be removed when fitting them. Due to the larger washers and bushed used, and that over time as the bushes compact causing the washers to hit the cup.
On large articulation it might be possible for contact between cup and washer could cause failure of the unit.

http://www.bearmach.com/books/Performance/...age13.html
Post #439417 21st Jul 2015 8:48pm
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